S

ShaunPDisco

Active Member
Hi Everyone
It now looks like I might actually be able to sort out the P38 as some funds are available that I need to spend wisely.
I have replaced in tank pump and glow plugs and car is starting and ticking over. When you blip the throttle the revs are holding for a second and then dropping back. Injector light flashes when this happens.
The faults on my nanacom are as follows
1. Fuel flow value out of range
2. Engine speed sensor Invalid Value
3. Injector Timing value out of expected range.

There is a little timing chain rattle so I have been waiting for funds to be able to get this done so the question is really what to do next. Should I get the front stripped down to see what wear there is or just bite the bullet and go for the complete kit and get it done and retimed. I have spoken to Diesel Bob and if the pump needs reconditioning it is £595 plus VAT. The pump is not leaking so what are the chances that these faults are probably all timing chain wear??
 
ShaunPDisco said:
Hi Everyone
It now looks like I might actually be able to sort out the P38 as some funds are available that I need to spend wisely.
I have replaced in tank pump and glow plugs and car is starting and ticking over. When you blip the throttle the revs are holding for a second and then dropping back. Injector light flashes when this happens.
The faults on my nanacom are as follows
1. Fuel flow value out of range
2. Engine speed sensor Invalid Value
3. Injector Timing value out of expected range.

There is a little timing chain rattle so I have been waiting for funds to be able to get this done so the question is really what to do next. Should I get the front stripped down to see what wear there is or just bite the bullet and go for the complete kit and get it done and retimed. I have spoken to Diesel Bob and if the pump needs reconditioning it is £595 plus VAT. The pump is not leaking so what are the chances that these faults are probably all timing chain wear??
Click to expand...

What is the modulation at tick over warm engine?
 
That might be a hard question. I am using a standalone faultmate msv-2 extreme and I will have to go and have. Play to see if i can find that reading!!!
 
ShaunPDisco said:
That might be a hard question. I am using a standalone faultmate msv-2 extreme and I will have to go and have. Play to see if i can find that reading!!!
Click to expand...

Look on EDC inputs/fuelling, timing modulation should be between 45% and 55% at tick over warm engine. If it is way above that you need to time the pump static within 45 and 55% then read faults again and see what's left. Very high modulation is retarded pump timing caused usually by stretched chains. If your chains are rattling they need looking at PDQ. If one parts you are stuffed. By the way a MSV2 is not a Nanocom. ;)
 
Car is on 115000miles. From previous history there is ne record of FIP being changed. I have very fortunately been discussing this with the wife this evening and she has produced the laptop that has the complete software loaded to use the faultmate to its full extent so hopefully tomorrow I can check the modulation.
In fairness to Mr Diesel Bob he did tell me to check the timing before stripping off the FIP.
 
Yes, simple things first. Might be worth checking what volume the lift pump is kicking out first too.

I think these FIPs are tired by 120k miles. By 140k miles they've pretty much had it.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Yes, simple things first. Might be worth checking what volume the lift pump is kicking out first too.

I think these FIPs are tired by 120k miles. By 140k miles they've pretty much had it.
Click to expand...

Fuel flow out of range is quantity servo. The ECU has no way of knowing if the lift pump is working or how much fuel it is pumping. All may go away if static timing is corrected. First thing to find out is timing modulation. If static is way out due to chain stretch, the timing solenoid may not be capable of setting point of injection correctly. Therefore the number four injectors output cannot be reconciled with the crank sensor output to adjust point of injection giving the second and third faults. If the chains are rattling they need looking at. Losing one would be disastrous.
 
Replaced the I tank pump recently as that was part of a starting problem so with all that has been said been pricing up parts for the timing chain replacement. I was surprised to find the kits do not include the sprockets. Is it a case of stripping to see what they are like or should you change the sprockets as a matter of course. It has been suggested that I should consider getting the head gasket done at the same time as the additional labour would not add a great deal to the overall total. I am curious as to how many hours you would expect a competent mechanic to charge for timing chain replacement and the additional time if we do the head also. I am really looking forward to getting this back on the road as I still get a special glow just seating in it on the drive!!!
 
Do the sprockets too.

Guess not a lot more work to do the head gasket. Might even make the job easier?
 
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