That’s what I’ve read on here that the H24 is a stonger box.
Waiting in seller getting back to me with more details.
That’s what I’ve read on here that the H24 is a stonger box.
Waiting in seller getting back to me with more details.
I think you should have another '38 owner come and give you a hand diagnosing your bus incase you spend out on something you may not need. This is how a lot of owners end up selling these things with a bitter resentment through buying and throwing parts into the green oval pond!!! 
I think you should have another '38 owner come and give you a hand diagnosing your bus incase you spend out on something you may not need. This is how a lot of owners end up selling these things with a bitter resentment through buying and throwing parts into the green oval pond!!!
Been there, done that, got a wardrobe full of T shirts
Box is definitely knackered.
Will get it on diagnostics if still a rev issue after that.
Any one in or near Northants with Nanocom or the likes, your help would be much appreciated and I’ll happily pay for your time etc.
Cheers.
If I am passing then I'll stop by but all my work has been south and east recently.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
The HP24 is able to cope with 450nm which is more than the derv will ever put out, in the 630r 'finch it put up over 500nm so it's a better box, but will also suffer from lack of maintenance.
The HP22 has always had niggles regardless, lack of maintenance will kill any Auto though..
The Gunge in the sump which is clutch material is a good indicator that the box is goosed..
The HP22 has always had niggles regardless, lack of maintenance will kill any Auto though..
The Gunge in the sump which is clutch material is a good indicator that the box is goosed..
Deal done for an Upgraded H24 that’s just been removed from a Dse. Oil still good etc.
Just got to sort garage to drop mine out, so I can take it to Wales ( never seem to be able to find what I want locally ) drop it off at sellers and collect mine. Whilst it’s off I’ll degrease it all etc, change filter, then get it up to garage to fit in......
Will be a week or two, as got to sell my Isuzu Bighorn Irmsher, now I’ve finished it....
At least there will be some funds for the money pit then, haha.
Just got to sort garage to drop mine out, so I can take it to Wales ( never seem to be able to find what I want locally ) drop it off at sellers and collect mine. Whilst it’s off I’ll degrease it all etc, change filter, then get it up to garage to fit in......
Will be a week or two, as got to sell my Isuzu Bighorn Irmsher, now I’ve finished it....
At least there will be some funds for the money pit then, haha.
You might be selling the wrong car!!
Thought had crossed my mind....... but where’s the challenge in driving something you know will always start and get you there and back
P38 ownership is “living in the edge” haha.
It certainly is!
I've even more chance to drive mine after the plastic Volvo has burnt up its alternator....
Any long journeys, I take the bus!!
Any long journeys, I take the bus!!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Sure as hell, if I could afford a decent 4 x 4 I would not be driving any Land Rover product. My previous 4 x 4 was fault free in 5 years and 100K kilometres apart from a glow plug relay. It had to go because the engine was worn out.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
I would still have my p38 but afford to pay someone else to pull it apart instead of drive it
Probably wouldn’t enjoy it so much then, and buy a V8 to do myself like the others
Probably wouldn’t enjoy it so much then, and buy a V8 to do myself like the others
At last an update.....
Got hold of a H24 box that had already been in a diesel.
Now fitted and I have reverse again, hurrah
................BUT it’s still totally gutless forwards or back wards so guess I’m looking at an engine problem too?
I can’t afford Nanocom yet and don’t know any one near by that has one. Garage that fitted box are going to look at it later this week, but I don’t know what system they use (they are a big garage though with all the latest kit, Bosch approved etc etc so should have decent diagnostics, but said nothing showed up on initial look. Will look properly next week as they are stacked out this week and did me a favour by agreeing to drop the box and refit one at short notice for me as I’ve used them for years.
In the meantime any thing obvious I should be looking for first ? Still does the odd thing that revs freely and nicely under no load, but sometimes when box is engage you get no repose at all when you put foot down. Revs don’t increase at all? When it does move it’s gutless, 15-20mph tops eventually, at about 2500-3000 revs?
Cheers.
Got hold of a H24 box that had already been in a diesel.
Now fitted and I have reverse again, hurrah
................BUT it’s still totally gutless forwards or back wards so guess I’m looking at an engine problem too?
I can’t afford Nanocom yet and don’t know any one near by that has one. Garage that fitted box are going to look at it later this week, but I don’t know what system they use (they are a big garage though with all the latest kit, Bosch approved etc etc so should have decent diagnostics, but said nothing showed up on initial look. Will look properly next week as they are stacked out this week and did me a favour by agreeing to drop the box and refit one at short notice for me as I’ve used them for years.
In the meantime any thing obvious I should be looking for first ? Still does the odd thing that revs freely and nicely under no load, but sometimes when box is engage you get no repose at all when you put foot down. Revs don’t increase at all? When it does move it’s gutless, 15-20mph tops eventually, at about 2500-3000 revs?
Cheers.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
If it’s non starter then could be heaps of things.
Every time I do something I get a little more out of mine, over few months it now shifts - something I never expected from the doozle. If you are picky a diy compression test will show if your engine is still capable but general maintenance will improve things.
There’s only two things fuel and airflow - Increase both. They don’t struggle for air but clean out your air filter/box and flush your intercooler check it’s not full of holes, this made big improvement to power with me. Check spill pipes/sensor pipes are good and not come off, all hoses are connected tight and not split from air box to turbo, turbo to inlet. Change fuel filter maybe run some injector cleaner through before changing. That’l give you few more horses, when you find what’s sapping it you will know
Every time I do something I get a little more out of mine, over few months it now shifts - something I never expected from the doozle. If you are picky a diy compression test will show if your engine is still capable but general maintenance will improve things.
There’s only two things fuel and airflow - Increase both. They don’t struggle for air but clean out your air filter/box and flush your intercooler check it’s not full of holes, this made big improvement to power with me. Check spill pipes/sensor pipes are good and not come off, all hoses are connected tight and not split from air box to turbo, turbo to inlet. Change fuel filter maybe run some injector cleaner through before changing. That’l give you few more horses, when you find what’s sapping it you will know
It starts fine. Revs fine with no load. Just painfully slow when moving.
I’m ready for the “told you so” replies, but would I be right in thinking that when I replaced the seals in the FIP, even though I scribed the block etc, if it’s not back on correctly in the same place, that this could be causing the issue, as it’s possibly underfueling?
Cheers.
I’m ready for the “told you so” replies, but would I be right in thinking that when I replaced the seals in the FIP, even though I scribed the block etc, if it’s not back on correctly in the same place, that this could be causing the issue, as it’s possibly underfueling?
Cheers.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
did you lock the flywheel when you did it....
If pump is out of place should run rough or not start, but if it revs and runs it should pull. Maybe gearbox.
Best wait see what diagnosis the garage get in the week, you will have more of an idea what’s up then. Also try the LZmap see if there is anyone near with a nanocom06 to come give it a wipe/read for you. You have checked all MAP etc is connected properly?
If pump is out of place should run rough or not start, but if it revs and runs it should pull. Maybe gearbox.
Best wait see what diagnosis the garage get in the week, you will have more of an idea what’s up then. Also try the LZmap see if there is anyone near with a nanocom06 to come give it a wipe/read for you. You have checked all MAP etc is connected properly?
I didn’t remove pump, just did the top and middle odd shape washers as that is where it was leaking from.
Will check everything fitted back correctly when I’m up there tomorrow.
Possibly, although you don't need to go too far to stop it starting at all.
When you put the top on did you make sure the peg was engaged in the hole, move the top, tilt to see the hole had moved and then tilt back in, move so all lines were aligned and tightened up?
You can (with someone in the car ready to switch off if the revs go nutty) slacken the pump top and ever so gently tap it fractions of a millimetre until you get 750rpm at idle. Really, really gently Bentley though.
Scratch that. It'd never get to 3000 rpm without the peg in the hole. This Cornish Rattler isn't bad ...
