currycowboy · Apr 16, 2019

Hi,

I live in Spain and recently bought a P38 (2.5 BMW engine 1999). The TC ABS lights and brake light were all illuminated at purchase. Thought it would be simple fix but am getting a little lost so could do with some pointers.
My friend a mechanic Checked ABS sensors and they have continuity and I believe he said 5v power. Changed brake switch and ABS ECU twice resulting in the same result TC light and brake light go out on start up after installation but after driving 50m comes back on. The Autel diagnostic comes up with shorted sensors....

The car has been put onto springs prior to my ownership, could this be the issue in any way if a bypass was not fitted etc? The people I bought the car from said these lights were on after the springs were fitted, when i later contacted them to try and ascertain how long the lights had been on for.
Any help really appreciated.

Grrrrrr · Apr 16, 2019

Given the fact it happened after springs were fitted it sounds connected. Could have damaged a wire or connector, I guess.

The later ABS ECU seems to suffer from a few faults so not impossible. Might be worth checking connectors behind A posts too.

If on springs it should have an EAS bypass kit.

Datatek · Apr 17, 2019

There are 2 bulbs for the ABS, if one fails, the other will stay on. Brake pedal switch is another possibility. It really needs to go on diagnostics or you could be looking for a long time.

wammers · Apr 17, 2019

Datatek said:
There are 2 bulbs for the ABS, if one fails, the other will stay on. Brake pedal switch is another possibility. It really needs to go on diagnostics or you could be looking for a long time.

Two bulbs for SRS not for ABS.

Datatek · Apr 17, 2019

wammers said:
Two bulbs for SRS not for ABS.

Quite right, brain not in gear

tomcat59alan · Apr 17, 2019

wammers said:
Two bulbs for SRS not for ABS.

Beat me to it Tony, I'll have to wake up a few minutes earlier.

currycowboy · Apr 17, 2019

Grrrrrr said:
Given the fact it happened after springs were fitted it sounds connected. Could have damaged a wire or connector, I guess.

The later ABS ECU seems to suffer from a few faults so not impossible. Might be worth checking connectors behind A posts too.

If on springs it should have an EAS bypass kit.

Thanks for reply, where would EAS bypass be sited please?

currycowboy · Apr 17, 2019

Datatek said:
There are 2 bulbs for the ABS, if one fails, the other will stay on. Brake pedal switch is another possibility. It really needs to go on diagnostics or you could be looking for a long time.

Thanks for reply. The brake pedal switch has been replaced, I wrongly described it op as brake light switch, not pedal switch doh!!
Can you recommend a reasonably priced diagnostic kit that will do all
land rovers as have discos aswell?

Grrrrrr · Apr 18, 2019

currycowboy said:
Thanks for reply, where would EAS bypass be sited please?

Never fitted one but the EAS computer is under the passenger seat on the RHD cars so under there I'd guess.

Diagnostics. Depends on the year. best value for money (IMO) for the P38 is the Nanocom. It also does the older Discos but you need an extra cable and the required module unlocking. I'm not sure it does the newer ones though, you'd have to check the Blackbox Solutions website and see what is covered.

brianp38dse · Apr 18, 2019

When you replaced the brake pedal switch did you set it correctly as per rave.

wammers · Apr 18, 2019

Check fluid level. It must be topped up to MAX line (AFTER) ABS pump stops. Remove and refit brake switch according to RAVE. EAS has nothing to do with your problem.

currycowboy · Apr 18, 2019

brianp38dse said:
When you replaced the brake pedal switch did you set it correctly as per rave.

No, what needs to be done please? I don’t have rave...

wammers · Apr 18, 2019

currycowboy said:
No, what needs to be done please? I don’t have rave...

Remove brake switch. Pull plunger out to it's full extent. Depress brake and with pedal depressed refit switch. Allow pedal to return. Switch should now work correctly.

plumbfisher · Apr 18, 2019

currycowboy said:
No, what needs to be done please? I don’t have rave...

You've got to have Rave. Just not possible to do anything much without it. Links to downloads on here I think.

My experience of the 'three amigos' coming on was an ABS sensor that had failed.
And don't forget that you have to drive it before the ABS and TC lights will go out...

wammers · Apr 18, 2019

plumbfisher said:
You've got to have Rave. Just not possible to do anything much without it. Links to downloads on here I think.

My experience of the 'three amigos' coming on was an ABS sensor that had failed.
And don't forget that you have to drive it before the ABS and TC lights will go out...

Not quite, TC lamp will go out when ABS pressure has risen to minimum acceptable. You should not drive the vehicle until TC lamp goes out. ABS lamp goes out at 5 mph.

brianp38dse · Apr 18, 2019

@currycowboy if you have a look in the tech archive top left of the range rover home page there is a post by Wazzerjnr with downloads from dropbox Rave is the LR tech manual like a haynes but on steroids you will also find other useful bit like microcat (parts manual)

plumbfisher · Apr 18, 2019

wammers said:
Not quite, TC lamp will go out when ABS pressure has risen to minimum acceptable. You should not drive the vehicle until TC lamp goes out. ABS lamp goes out at 5 mph.

Sorry I stand corrected

but you get my drift...

wammers · Apr 18, 2019

plumbfisher said:
Sorry I stand corrected
but you get my drift...

Yup drift received.

RangeRoller dt · Apr 18, 2019

The ABS/Hbrake light should go out after certain low speed pretty soon, not the opposite - relay somewhere perhaps?

In regards to the EAS bypass I can help you there if you are keeping your coils.

Is it lifted at all?
If you have a beeping when turn ignition on and 35mph max warning message constantly then bypass will help by putting EAS into manual mode. 1beep then shuts up and no warning to worry non p38 knowing MOT testers.
You can buy a harness for about £40 or it can be rewired yourself cheaperlyier

wammers · Apr 19, 2019

RangeRoller dt said:
The ABS/Hbrake light should go out after certain low speed pretty soon, not the opposite - relay somewhere perhaps?

In regards to the EAS bypass I can help you there if you are keeping your coils.

Is it lifted at all?
If you have a beeping when turn ignition on and 35mph max warning message constantly then bypass will help by putting EAS into manual mode. 1beep then shuts up and no warning to worry non p38 knowing MOT testers.
You can buy a harness for about £40 or it can be rewired yourself cheaperlyier

The hand brake lamp also doubles as the low fluid indicator. It is not speed or pressure related. If the hand brake lamp stays on with hand brake off it indicates low fluid. TC lamp will be lit with ignition and will go out when ABS minimum operating pressure is reached. Pump will continue to run until max pressure is obtained then stop. Only then can fluid level be checked, filled to MAX line. ABS lamp will come on with ignition flash off and back on and will go out when road speed reaches 5 MPH.

Member

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

Well-Known Member

No longer with us, RIP

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Member

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

Well-Known Member

No longer with us, RIP

Member

No longer with us, RIP

Active Member

No longer with us, RIP

Well-Known Member

Active Member

No longer with us, RIP

Well-Sprung Member

No longer with us, RIP

Similar threads