Oil pump is trapped between crank and chain sprocket pressed to it by drive flange. That is why bolt is so tight. Chain sprocket is retained by a Woodruff key this key also engages on drive flange to maintain timing mark orientation. Vibration damper is orientated to drive flange by a dowel.
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Against compression is nothing like tight enough. You need to replace woodruff key. A special tool is used to hold the drive flange, torque to 100 Nm then angle tighten 150 degrees. Each flat on nut point to point is 60 degrees so you need to mark a nut point on flange after initial torque and turn bolt two and half flats to the mark.
Renault did that also... It was to allow the crank pulley to be fitted to different engines. I suppose after making 1m of the bugger's it saved them a lot of money. Like shrinking the heads on bolts from 17>16mm and 19>18mm.I did a cambelt on a 1.8 petrol C5 a few years ago and the crank belt sprocket spun freely on the crankuntil you did the pulley nut up - and that's how it was - keyless by design.
Saves a lot of pennies per million.
GENERAL QUESTION . Can a old crank shaft bolt take a full torque, and would you use thread lock.
Yes and no.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Now there`s a nice straight answer for you
Datatek
Well-Known Member
You do spout some utter crap at times. Tightened to that torque there is no possibility of it coming loose. I will agree fitting a new one is wise. But if the cars service history shows it has never been removed before, using it again should not a problem. But if unsure fit new. But they most certainly don't always come loose if torqued correctly that is a ridiculous statement
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Back for seconds so soon Wammers? That's just greedy.
If he simply said it's unwise to refit the old one then I'd back him over your suggestion that the finite history of said bolt could perhaps be found in the history,
now that's utter bollocks, .....and then you agree with 99% of HIS bollocks, lmfao.
Your good, don't spoil it.
If he simply said it's unwise to refit the old one then I'd back him over your suggestion that the finite history of said bolt could perhaps be found in the history,
now that's utter bollocks, .....and then you agree with 99% of HIS bollocks, lmfao.
Your good, don't spoil it.
Back for seconds so soon Wammers? That's just greedy.
If he simply said it's unwise to refit the old one then I'd back him over your suggestion that the finite history of said bolt could perhaps be found in the history,
now that's utter bollocks, .....and then you agree with 99% of HIS bollocks, lmfao.
Your good, don't spoil it.
The service history if complete should reference any chain or oil pump work which would require bolt removal. If it doesn't or is incomplete or there is no service history fit a new one by all means. But the statement that if reusing one it will always come loose is totally ridiculous.
Removed sump today and coolers in the front, the portion of the key that drives the damper and pulleys has indeed sheared off but the crank seems to be ok, so I think I will take a chance on spending some more gold on it, head off next and then front cover as the timing chains will have to come off to get the new key in.
The question is where do I stop, its done 140K miles, uses a bit of oil about a pint a month, fires out black smoke like hell if I give it the big boot, quite a bit of oil in intercooler and hoses when I removed them today.
Going on line to order cam tools tonight, I see sets on flea bay ranging from 80 to 100 quid?
I reckon timing chains and guides will be a must?
Anything else recommended while its apart?
Thanks, Murray.
The question is where do I stop, its done 140K miles, uses a bit of oil about a pint a month, fires out black smoke like hell if I give it the big boot, quite a bit of oil in intercooler and hoses when I removed them today.
Going on line to order cam tools tonight, I see sets on flea bay ranging from 80 to 100 quid?
I reckon timing chains and guides will be a must?
Anything else recommended while its apart?
Thanks, Murray.
