Hylomar was developed for metal to metal (No gasket) joints in Rolls Royce jet engines. Used properly it is the best joining compound available.
Hylomar was developed for metal to metal (No gasket) joints in Rolls Royce jet engines. Used properly it is the best joining compound available.
I think get some new sprockets as soon as possible! Are the teeth not rounded on the ends?
Fit new sprockets if you can. Crank sprocket can be difficult to get hold of. But if at all worn get one and fit it. It's the one that wears the most. Set 0.95 mm static and do not use spacer under cam holder.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
True, but it depends how worn the sprockets are. On my bikes I'd go through 2 or 3 chains before I needed to change the sprockets.
Crank sprocket indeed difficult to find but BMW say they have one but it will be a few days before it arrives the other two were easier to get hold of.
Just checking the O ring seal that goes on the steel water pipe that fits in the front cover and noticed the water pump was now seized solid, it was spinning freely last week, it took a lot to free it off but now as rough as anything, just another part for the list!
Just checking the O ring seal that goes on the steel water pipe that fits in the front cover and noticed the water pump was now seized solid, it was spinning freely last week, it took a lot to free it off but now as rough as anything, just another part for the list!
Whatever you do DON'T remove the oil pump from the engine. It needs a special tool to centralise it's rotation.
After a wait for the crank sprocket and then I forgot to order a pump woodruff key (On close inspection it was twisted over and the keyway in the sprocket was worn) anyway started to get it back together, the cam setting tool was sloppy so super glued brass shim either side to get a good fit, the cheap dial gauge kit for the pump is crap I spent ages with WD40 getting it to move smoothly and the extension spindles were bowed, still you get what you pay for!
Before I put the head on, at TDC I scribed a line on the damper in line with the casting marker, there is another line but its after TDC so don't know what that is?
Depending on time I will get the sump on tomorrow, injector pipes, alternator etc.
After 54 days of drought it rained today and the horse flys bit the sh*t out of me!
Before I put the head on, at TDC I scribed a line on the damper in line with the casting marker, there is another line but its after TDC so don't know what that is?
Depending on time I will get the sump on tomorrow, injector pipes, alternator etc.
After 54 days of drought it rained today and the horse flys bit the sh*t out of me!
Last parts on today and it started almost as soon as I could tighten the injector pipes while bleeding the air out.
Seems to run much better than just before. Just given it a quick 10 mile test to check for leaks and besides a radiator hose clamp to adjust or replace its looking good except for the yellow engine warning light on the dash, not sure if its because I had the engine ECU disconnected and it now needs resetting?
Seems to run much better than just before. Just given it a quick 10 mile test to check for leaks and besides a radiator hose clamp to adjust or replace its looking good except for the yellow engine warning light on the dash, not sure if its because I had the engine ECU disconnected and it now needs resetting?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Disconnecting the ECU should not cause a problem. Diagnostics would tell you, but maybe something is not connected.
You haven't damaged the wire on #4 or forgotten to plug it in?
Guess what, schoolboy error, yep nipped the wire from No 4, luckily not broken , repaired the insulation and it seems to be working properly now, the light goes out on start up.
Changed the transmission cooler hoses as well today as they were on there last legs.
Thanks guys good call.
Changed the transmission cooler hoses as well today as they were on there last legs.
Thanks guys good call.
Well said that man!
Agreed by me great help.
Getting a new engine oil filter tomorrow to change the oil as I had to grind the head off two cylinder head bolts and even though I tucked rags in everywhere I would rather spend a bit more on flushing it out.
Just remembered the hot start kit that I found tucked in the ECU box, better disconnect that as well, looks like a live and earth feed and the grey blue (If I remember) is cut and fed through the hot box so that will need joining back up.
Getting a new engine oil filter tomorrow to change the oil as I had to grind the head off two cylinder head bolts and even though I tucked rags in everywhere I would rather spend a bit more on flushing it out.
Just remembered the hot start kit that I found tucked in the ECU box, better disconnect that as well, looks like a live and earth feed and the grey blue (If I remember) is cut and fed through the hot box so that will need joining back up.
I just hope some of the old barstewards can hang on as long as my old bus does otherwise I will be playing parts roulette.
Shize day, radiator split all had been fine until this, it was a Britpart about 2 years old. Cannot help wondering if its the new head gasket leaking as the pump is new, cap was new with the last rad, new thermostat, new fan, the AA guy had his thermometer on all engine points and all looks to be cooling as it should. Head gasket was torqued up thru all the steps as per Rave. Good job I didn't have a lighter on me!
