You mean coolant sensor temp which is 92 doesn't reach 120 c ?

The coolant temperature is the engine temperature. It's important this stays within the normal operating range, which is between 70°C and 116°C, for the engine to be considered safe to use.

The inlet temperature is completely different to coolant temperature, and is used by the ECM to calculate air density, which is needed for fueling calculations.

The inlet temperature sensor is in the inlet manifold, and is easy to replace if needed.
 
The coolant temperature is the engine temperature. It's important this stays within the normal operating range, which is between 70°C and 116°C, for the engine to be considered safe to use.

The inlet temperature is completely different to coolant temperature, and is used by the ECM to calculate air density, which is needed for fueling calculations.

The inlet temperature sensor is in the inlet manifold, and is easy to replace if needed.
Do you have a picture of the part and a location diagram for it ? Thanks! Have cancelled the trip for today - we're nervous about it . I'm 50 today but its not worth risking the car just to fan my vanity.
 
Have cancelled the trip for today - we're nervous about it . I'm 50 today but its not worth risking the car just to fan my vanity.

I wouldn't do that.
You're only 50 once, I know, I've had that one. ;)

Right in the beginning of this thread, was it the inlet template that was high, and not the coolant?
That would explain why the fans aren't running, as they're not needed for high intake temperatures.

I'll look out an inlet temperature sensor picture.
 
I wouldn't do that.
You're only 50 once, I know, I've had that one. ;)

Right in the beginning of this thread, was it the inlet template that was high, and not the coolant?
That would explain why the fans aren't running, as they're not needed for high intake temperatures.

I'll look out an inlet temperature sensor picture.
Thanks! I still have the fan malfunction code though - P0480 - they will never come on till that is fixed... Is it normal for the oil temp to reach 123 degrees c ? Cheers!
 
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Thanks! I still have the fan malfunction code though - P0480 - they will never come on till that is fixed... Is it normal for the oil temp to reach 123 degrees c ? Cheers!
P0480 is a red herring, as in this installation. I've loonked into this issue, determining that the fan controller module isn't in data communication with the ECM, so it can't know there's actually a problem with it. The ECM simply flags a code, because it's not getting fan module data, which of course it can't, as the fan module used it a dumb module, simply responding to a PWM signal from the ECM.

From memory there's no oil temperature sensor on this engine, so the figure your are seeing is just a default value.
If that's the case, the high value would be present, even on a cold engine.
 
P0480 is a red herring, as in this installation. I've loonked into this issue, determining that the fan controller module isn't in data communication with the ECM, so it can't know there's actually a problem with it. The ECM simply flags a code, because it's not getting fan module data, which of course it can't, as the fan module used it a dumb module, simply responding to a PWM signal from the ECM.

From memory there's no oil temperature sensor on this engine, so the figure your are seeing is just a default value.
If that's the case, the high value would be present, even on a cold engine.
The oil temp does go up as the engine is used then goes down when off. This is still a default thing ? Isn't there a sensor in the top head gasket? So its not for oil ?
 
The oil temp does go up as the engine is used then goes down when off. This is still a default thing ? Isn't there a sensor in the top head gasket? So its not for oil ?
I'm not that up on the later FL1 1.8, the early 1.8 didn't have an oil temperature sensor.
The later one could I suppose, if so it'll be located on the oil pump at the bottom of the engine.
125°C isn't an issue for oil though, as it naturally gets very hot.
The coolant temperature is the important thing to concentrate on, and as long as the coolant is below 120°C, there's not an issue.
 
I'm not that up on the later FL1 1.8, the early 1.8 didn't have an oil temperature sensor.
The later one could I suppose, if so it'll be located on the oil pump at the bottom of the engine.
125°C isn't an issue for oil though, as it naturally gets very hot.
The coolant temperature is the important thing to concentrate on, and as long as the coolant is below 120°C, there's not an issue.
Ok - cheers! When i replaces the spark plugs i saw and cleaned a sensor on the front top left if facing the engine - thought it was the oil - taking it off to clean it, you could see down in..... its a puzzle aright!
 
That's the cam position sensor. ;)
Hi again Nodge ! Advice needed and appreciated! Freelander 1 1.8L k-series Facelift 2005. Starts up with start gas sprayed in air intake then dies - otherwise turns over but won't start! New sparks last summer. Full power in battery.
Can it be its not getting petrol ? Would that be petrol filter or pump ? Inertia switch?
No engine warning light or error codes on reader either.
I put 2L from a 5L spare tank in a week and a half ago - i mix 2 stroke oil in 5L tanks for my snow scooter at 2% ratio. The 2L was not desiel and i'm pretty sure it wasn't remains of a 2% petrol/oil mix. There was 3/4 tank of petrol already in the car, approx. 45L.
Had the car for 7 years and haven't changed/done anything to the fuel pump/filter.
Any ideas on what to check over ? Wouldn't a failed petrol pump give a code etc ? Can so little 2% 2 stroke oil in a 2L petrol mix poured into 45L petrol in the tank cause a problem with the filter/ pump injectors etc , it it was infact the case ? Please let me know what you think, yours faithfully, arnodafe72
 
Hi again Nodge ! Advice needed and appreciated! Freelander 1 1.8L k-series Facelift 2005. Starts up with start gas sprayed in air intake then dies - otherwise turns over but won't start! New sparks last summer. Full power in battery.
Can it be its not getting petrol ? Would that be petrol filter or pump ? Inertia switch?
No engine warning light or error codes on reader either.
I put 2L from a 5L spare tank in a week and a half ago - i mix 2 stroke oil in 5L tanks for my snow scooter at 2% ratio. The 2L was not desiel and i'm pretty sure it wasn't remains of a 2% petrol/oil mix. There was 3/4 tank of petrol already in the car, approx. 45L.
Had the car for 7 years and haven't changed/done anything to the fuel pump/filter.
Any ideas on what to check over ? Wouldn't a failed petrol pump give a code etc ? Can so little 2% 2 stroke oil in a 2L petrol mix poured into 45L petrol in the tank cause a problem with the filter/ pump injectors etc , it it was infact the case ? Please let me know what you think, yours faithfully, arnodafe72

Hi,

Can't be a fuel filter for a starting issue.
Normaly should ear the fuel pump, if it's still working.
When you had your spartks plugs replaced, did you replacethe ignition coil ?

Regards
 
Hi,

Can't be a fuel filter for a starting issue.
Normaly should ear the fuel pump, if it's still working.
When you had your spartks plugs replaced, did you replacethe ignition coil ?

Regards
Didn't replace the coils. Can hear whirring in the back but its from the charcoal/gas petrol cylinder under the right back wheel - gonna have help to listen to fuel pump tonight - shouldn't i get a code or engine light for fuel pump though ? There is no fuse anywhere to check right ? Regards, arnodafe72
 
The fuel pump is powered via the impact sensor, but a quick check for that is to lock the doors and try starting the engine. If the sensor has tripped, the doors will pop unlocked when you try to start the engine.

The fuel pump and filter can be problematic with mileage.
The filter is always filtering fuel, even if the fuel is simply returned to the tank. In time the filter can clog, causing a drop in fuel pressure, but also causing the pump to work harder and fail.

You should be able to hear the pump prime as the ignition is turned on. If not, then the pump is likely faulty. The only way to check would be to measure the fuel pressure at the injector rail, which should give about 60 PSI or 3.8 Bar of pressure.
 
The fuel pump is powered via the impact sensor, but a quick check for that is to lock the doors and try starting the engine. If the sensor has tripped, the doors will pop unlocked when you try to start the engine.

The fuel pump and filter can be problematic with mileage.
The filter is always filtering fuel, even if the fuel is simply returned to the tank. In time the filter can clog, causing a drop in fuel pressure, but also causing the pump to work harder and fail.

You should be able to hear the pump prime as the ignition is turned on. If not, then the pump is likely faulty. The only way to check would be to measure the fuel pressure at the injector rail, which should give about 60 PSI or 3.8 Bar of pressure.
Ok - thanks man ! Can the inertia switch only be pressed when the key is 'on' or first position ? Mine is very hard and doesn't seem to move there's no reason why it should be tripped but it is solid and worth investigating....
Only other thing i can think off is 'ice prop' if condensation or something got into petrol tank - just now the temperatures are going plus and minus, instead of usually being -10C to -20C . Thanks again - hopefully get help so i can listen tonight ! Keep yous posted !
 
Mine is very hard and doesn't seem to move there's no reason why it should be tripped but it is solid and worth investigating...

If it won't press, then it's not been tripped.
You can test it by giving it a reasonable tap with a screwdriver handle. If it's ok, it'll pop up, at which point you'll be able to reset it.
 
Think if there was a 2% snowscooter oil mix in the 2L i added to the 40L petrol in the tank that it could blockbthe fuel lines or injectors ?
Oil is soluble in petrol, so unlikely to cause a blockage, unless it's gone off and begun to gell. Even then it would be stopped by the strainer or filter.
Does the pump run?
 
Oil is soluble in petrol, so unlikely to cause a blockage, unless it's gone off and begun to gell. Even then it would be stopped by the strainer or filter.
Does the pump run?
Couldn't get to the car last night after work - going tonight hopefully, but n the morning i will definitely get to it. Just thought i would mention it as snowscooter oil might be thicker....its -20C here again so i need to warm the engine aswell before i begin. Is it worth siphoning out the petrol and putting new fresh petrol in ?
 

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