If you've checked everything and the module isn't doing what it should, then it would suggest it's faulty.
Have you made sure there's no corrosion on the connections?
Pretty sure - they look good..... Cheers man - i'll get back to you when i get the new secondhand part ! Arnodafe_72
 
If you've checked everything and the module isn't doing what it should, then it would suggest it's faulty.
Have you made sure there's no corrosion on the connections?
Got the full double fannrack with module secondhand today - gonna test it tomorrow when i get home from work. All i have to do is run two cables from the connector on the car to the new module fan rack (uninstalled) - without the two thin trigger wires connected, the fans should start right? If they don't then something else is wrong and i don't need to install the secondhand part - correct? (It may also have a bad module though, very old.
Also, have you seen the new Comeinhandynow freelander 1.8L thermostat upgrade ? What do you think? I've got a thermostat coming and am wondering about it . Here's till tomorrow....
 
If you've checked everything and the module isn't doing what it should, then it would suggest it's faulty.
Have you made sure there's no corrosion on the connections?
Tried the new fan rack - niether the ones i have or these start when the 2 thin wires are not connected (as was mentioned earlier as a safety feature). Tried new (secondhand) module - same results as my own. Tried connecting only the thin pink/brown cable (which has 12V constant) to its position on the fan rack and NOT connecting the blue/white cable - the fans start and on key in second position it goes continuously...... once tunrned off the fans stop, then turn on again for 10 secs then turn off again. The new (secondhand module does exactly the same - i have installed it and it behaves identically.
my error code with the secondhand module in place no longer states P0480 state: Fault currently present - Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit Malfunction, but instead - P0480 state: Line Break - Cooling Fan 1 Circuit Malfunction ...... is this any help? Once i connect the white/blue thin cable that should be connected along with the pink/brown one (on the same conector plug), the fans remain lifeless - does that cable tell the fans 'No!' untill it should come on but is not doing so - saying 'Yes!' ? Is the problem then from the blue/white cable tracing back to wherever it goes to on the module?
Ran the fan constent to chec how it affected the coolant temp. monitored on the diagnostic computer - the temp wit full fan remained 112 C. This is i think because my radiator is blocked by Bears anti-collant leak or that my thermostat has malfunctioned in 'closed' position, thereby not letting any coolant flow through the entire radiator. This is also why the top hose is very hot while the bottom is cold.Thus the engine is just circulating hot water and overheating as a result. Doing a flush and changing thermostat will most likely bring the temp. down but i still have the problem with the fans not running - any ideas on this ? Yours sincerely, Arnodafe72 Really appreciate yourhelp
 
Tried connecting only the thin pink/brown cable (which has 12V constant) to its position on the fan rack and NOT connecting the blue/white cable - the fans start and on key in second position it goes continuously...... once tunrned off the fans stop, then turn on again for 10 secs then turn off again.

That's correct.

It seems the module needs the permanent 12 V on the other thin wire to initiate the safety feature, which is logical, although a new one on me.

So it appears your fan module is working, however it's like the ECM isn't sending out the correct control signal to the module, but the module must be getting something, or the fans would run.
Very strange.
 
That's correct.

It seems the module needs the permanent 12 V on the other thin wire to initiate the safety feature, which is logical, although a new one on me.

So it appears your fan module is working, however it's like the ECM isn't sending out the correct control signal to the module, but the module must be getting something, or the fans would run.
Very strange.
Yeah, if i disconnect the signal wire the fans run on the 12 v current - any idea where the signal wire goes ? Also , it has nothing to do with my AC , if there's nothing in it ?
Also IMPORTANT: when checking the fan motors on the new secondhand fan rack i accodently attached the battery to the cables that go from the module to the fans - do you think this may have shorted or damaged the module ? Sending current backwards through it from the fan connector? Was vet tired - had just finished a night shift and wanted to try the new secondhand parts - let me know what you think. Thanks!
 
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That's correct.

It seems the module needs the permanent 12 V on the other thin wire to initiate the safety feature, which is logical, although a new one on me.

So it appears your fan module is working, however it's like the ECM isn't sending out the correct control signal to the module, but the module must be getting something, or the fans would run.
Very strange.
Having hot wired my fans to stay on constantly, i drove the car with the laptop connected to view the temp. Still reaching 112 - 114 c . This means either my thermostat is locked 'closed' and not allowing flow, or my radiator is clogged not llowing flow or my water pump isn't running right? Do you think the heat inside the engine compartment might have caused the module to fail? Please let me know what you think, Arnodafe72 also how mnay litres of coolant dobyou need after a flush ?
 
Sounds like the thermostat isn't allowing coolant to circulate correctly. The engine should run at about 95°C all the time. Normally the 1.8 never needs the fans, as the radiator is the same as that fitted to the V6, so it has much more cooling capacity than is required for the little 1.8.

The fan module will be ok with the heat, its designed to take it. ;)
 
Sounds like the thermostat isn't allowing coolant to circulate correctly. The engine should run at about 95°C all the time. Normally the 1.8 never needs the fans, as the radiator is the same as that fitted to the V6, so it has much more cooling capacity than is required for the little 1.8.

The fan module will be ok with the heat, its designed to take it. ;)
Ok! Super - let's hope its that - thanks again !
 
Only just read this through and clearly there is a cooling issue. But my working 1.8 engine gives a permanent code of P0480 Fan cct fault.

As above, the fans don't come on except when idling and being revved up while stationary during an MOT.

So the code could be misleading. Mine clears and comes back again straight away. Never found out why but fans work OK.
 
Only just read this through and clearly there is a cooling issue. But my working 1.8 engine gives a permanent code of P0480 Fan cct fault.

As above, the fans don't come on except when idling and being revved up while stationary during an MOT.

So the code could be misleading. Mine clears and comes back again straight away. Never found out why but fans work OK.
Yeah, mine never come on....also with the fans jumped to go all the time, the temp still sits at 112 degrees c , so things are also not circulating..... Thanks for the reply.
 
Sounds like the thermostat isn't allowing coolant to circulate correctly. The engine should run at about 95°C all the time. Normally the 1.8 never needs the fans, as the radiator is the same as that fitted to the V6, so it has much more cooling capacity than is required for the little 1.8.

The fan module will be ok with the heat, its designed to take it. ;)
Hi agin! New thermostat fitted new coolant after flush - temp on dash is still the same (normal), and the coolant temp on the computer is fine - but still the ECM coolant temp is at 114c to 117c - even with just short drive. The temp in the dash still doesn't go to red even though the ecm coolant intake is 117c. Above all this there is no bubbling or steam in my pressure tank which is designed to release after certain steam pressure with overheating.... Do you think the ecm coolant intake reading is measuring some metal part instead? If i have a physical open pipe from my hot pipe going to the top of the radiator to the pressure tank (if i squeeze it, it squirts in the tank, then surely if there was steam etc - it would get there... Please let me know what you think, yours greatfully Arnodafe72
 
If the coolant temperature from the ECM is showing above 100°C and the pressure cap is removed, then there's clearly an issue with either the coolant sensor, or less likely the ECM is sending out incorrect engine temperature.
 
Drove the car 60kms - ECM computer coolant inlet temp said 122 degrees c - but coolant temp sensor on computer said 93 degrees c. Needle in dash was normal. There was no bubbling or steam in the pressure tank. If i didn't have the computer hooked up which gives an INLET temp, i wouldn't think anything was wrong. Its like the INLER temp is measuring the metal in the engine or something - if it was 122 c the pressure cap should release and i should notice. Think its fine to drive then and ECM reading of INLET temp is wrong or corrupted? Cheers, Arnodafe72
IMG20220817184507__01.jpg
 
Drove the car 60kms - ECM computer coolant inlet temp said 122 degrees c - but coolant temp sensor on computer said 93 degrees c.

Coolant temperature is what controls the fans and what the gauge displays.
The inlet temperature is used by the ECM to calculate fuel mixture, but it shouldn't be showing anything like 120°C, it should be just above ambient temperature.
 
Coolant temperature is what controls the fans and what the gauge displays.
The inlet temperature is used by the ECM to calculate fuel mixture, but it shouldn't be showing anything like 120°C, it should be just above ambient temperature.
So is it not safe to drive? Shouldn't it be boiling? I have 50/50 mix for rhe coming winter. Fans don't come on but have power etc - think ECM is up the left ? What would be next step - shouldn't i feel something when driving ? Regards, Arnodafe72
 
So is it not safe to drive? Shouldn't it be boiling? I have 50/50 mix for rhe coming winter. Fans don't come on but have power etc - think ECM is up the left ? What would be next step - shouldn't i feel something when driving ? Regards, Arnodafe72
From the picture above, there's nothing wrong as the coolant is only 92°C, but the inlet temperature showing high won't effect the engine.
As long as the coolant temperature remains below 120°C, the engine will be fine.
 
From the picture above, there's nothing wrong as the coolant is only 92°C, but the inlet temperature showing high won't effect the engine.
As long as the coolant temperature remains below 120°C, the engine will be fine.
Ok. You mean coolant sensor temp which is 92 doesn't reach 120 c ? This is also why no check engine light or needle going to red, even though INLET says 120 c. Habe to drive for a few hours tomorrow - keep the eyes on the guage .....i guess. Thanks again, really appreachiate your time and help.
 

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