eightinavee said:

Because quite simply it won't tell you what the ecu is seeing - as the ecu is responsible for fuelling the engine therefore making the decision of when overboost is occuring, can you not see that this is the FIRST part of the diagnostic process to give an answer to Rustyskull's original question in his first post.(Which is all I have tried to help with) Until you see what the ecu thinks is happening you have little idea of what is going on.So in this instance a dash mounted gauge may tell you the actual boost pressure which is nice if you need to know it,but not necessarily what the ecu thinks is going on.I can't make it any more simple than that, a dash mounted boost gauge will tell you boost pressure,(Within terms of its own accuracy) but NOT tell you what the brain that has control of the fuelling is thinking or doing.If it was an old 200TDI with a Bosch VE mechanical pump which Rustyskull was working with, a boost gauge would be a great help. But its not, a boost gauge will be of help further on when he has seen some live data from it and set the boost to its correct limit.

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so how come my boost gauge on my td5 told me i had boost creep i also when i ocasianally over boosted when i waste gate issues i also run a bleed of valve so i can regulate boost pressure while monitoring the gauge

At this point I have lost any interest in this thread,your childlike rantings with such poor spelling and punctuation do nothing to encourage anyone to read, or learn from this thread.(And you can clearly do better) Again I have stated that my answer had only one intention,to help to answer Rustyskull's original question.Nothing more,nothing less.I have no interest whatsoever in your TD5 and its boost creep issues. I have a customers TD5 110 on the ramp for servicing and suspected overboost, I will put my interest into repairing that car, and from now on ignore whatever it is you are trying to prove.

eightinavee said:

At this point I have lost any interest in this thread,your childlike rantings with such poor spelling and punctuation do nothing to encourage anyone to read, or learn from this thread.(And you can clearly do better) Again I have stated that my answer had only one intention,to help to answer Rustyskull's original question.Nothing more,nothing less.I have no interest whatsoever in your TD5 and its boost creep issues. I have a customers TD5 110 on the ramp for servicing and suspected overboost, I will put my interest into repairing that car, and from now on ignore whatever it is you are trying to prove.

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dont need to prove any thing considering when i am work i diagnose boost issues repairs and rebuilds on well more advanced engines than the TD5 some of these engines and vehicles or a machine can cost more than the average home


plenty of information on the net mate
this is just one of them
http://www.fd3s.net/boost_problems.html

Well either way you both helped because I agree with both of your opinions, I want to see what the ECU is thinking and also what the hard physical data is

RustySkull said:

Well either way you both helped because I agree with both of your opinions, I want to see what the ECU is thinking and also what the hard physical data is

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good call hope you get it sorted
just got home from work
little off topic but still pressure related
today we have a truck that looses oil pressure when oil gets warm live data shows oil pressure dropping off then the ecu thinks its to low then the ecu derates the engine limits power this was only happening while the truck is pulling a full load up hill

mechanically this tells me it can be many things like oil filter housing( oil thermostats ) oil pump or main and big ends worn or the oil its self has an issue thinning out when warm or getting hot under loads
so decided check the basics.. i installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge on a T piece the oil pressure was perfect .and ran the same test using the same road trian trailers fully loaded
turns out the oil pressure sensor was the issue
moral of the story start with the basics .....otherwise today i could of torn thing apart for no reason..... regardless if was using a high end program that costs 10 grand in software and a licence fee as we work on line also for different jobs

if you do go ahead and install a gauge... this is where i drilled into the manifold as you can see the conduit ..... tapped in a fitting although this is still not perfect.... i would of loved to install the it at the rear of the manifold ... the fitting can be plugged up easily if i need the boost gauge for other uses

edit typo

Can we see more pics of your engine? looks pretty!

eightinavee said:

At this point I have lost any interest in this thread,your childlike rantings with such poor spelling and punctuation do nothing to encourage anyone to read, or learn from this thread.(And you can clearly do better) Again I have stated that my answer had only one intention,to help to answer Rustyskull's original question.Nothing more,nothing less.I have no interest whatsoever in your TD5 and its boost creep issues. I have a customers TD5 110 on the ramp for servicing and suspected overboost, I will put my interest into repairing that car, and from now on ignore whatever it is you are trying to prove.

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clearly you have no interest in peoples findings but only your own

i wonder how long your customers car has been on the ramps ... while arguing with me?
as it was in for a service and suspected over boost issues

bankz5152 said:

Can we see more pics of your engine? looks pretty!

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looks can be deceiving mate
got the idea from myth busters LOL

Ozzyboy, sorry to disappoint you, but the 110 is fixed and finished,wastegate seized solid - now free and working properly. Actually,once again you are wrong,if anyone has anything interesting to say I'm more than interested, every day is a new day to learn something.
Luckily many years ago one of my learned lessons is that in life there are people who have some kind of mission where they feel the need to educate the world about how clever they are.Seems you are one of those people,I've read some of your other posts on here,I have to say you remind me of a bloke I used to work alongside at a race track near to me many years ago. His nickname was Thrush,he was eventually sacked...

i nah mate your wrong i also learn new things each day we can also learn many new things working on the same problem
i can also whinge about the people who i have worked with in the past but this wont help ruskys situation will it ? this is more of a back peddle moment

was only questioning about how a boost gauge wont work ? as the MAP sensor needs to read boost also to send information.... its gust a glorified pressure sensor so your wrong again the inlet manifold pressure is important ...... besides saying that its always nice to compare both


yes the 200 tdi does not have an ecu but when one want to chip the 200tdi the VE fuel pumps are easily wound up with no control to the point the injectors pumping in fuel to point it becomes unburnt

so i still ask why wont a boost gauge work on the td5 ? ps i also have to ask how old is the td5 it isn't exactly new technology now is it .. so why do people install after market gauges to newer vehicles .....specially in ruskys situation as he has changed his turbo configuration

just a hint all after market gauges provide information regardless if its temperature or pressure related

For those of you who may be interested I now have my Nanocom, and of course I've been playing around with it!
I thought I'd worked out how to make it plot the data in a graph but it didn't work, but anyway the most I could make it boost to up a hill was 1.4Bar, or around 20.3PSI. I know some of you said they read in kpa but mine is in Bar so at least that's easier lol. And, the inlet temp was showing 25 at that, now I'm not really cluded up on what these should run at but that seems high to me and of course if the hill was longer I'm sure it would have gone higher. ( I know I need a bigger intercooler) this is just my first test results.

It hasn't yet gone into overboost again, however I did find out I have a few fault codes,

• Ambient Pressure Circuit
• Coolent Temperature Circuit
• Fuel Pump Drive Open Load
• Road Speed Missing

So I'll have to look into those, I've not had any issues as yet so I wonder if they're old from before I bought it. I've deleted them to see if they come back.

I'm yet to investigate so forgive me if this is simple, but where is a good place to obtain a GOOD map to use with this Nanocom as I fancey attempting to flash it myself