easye1
Banned
your drilled plug and sized drill is what I also made/used when I done my first disco 200 belt.
but I made a steel checker plate crank "holder" that uses 4 bolts into bottom pulley, then rests on chassis rails.
I also "made" a heavy duty socket by welding a slit piece of scaffold tube over the socket and welded to fook
then welded it to a knackered ratchet bar.
used a length of scaffold tube to tighten it all back up...all worked a treat..
good to see you back out on things again.
I been T2 for years, I sort of get it all right, as my 3 month checkups tell me I`ve been good, but admit I cheat at times - but, it all comes good on the check ups..
lower legs have suffered badly though..but....still here to moan/annoy/wtf...lol
but I made a steel checker plate crank "holder" that uses 4 bolts into bottom pulley, then rests on chassis rails.
I also "made" a heavy duty socket by welding a slit piece of scaffold tube over the socket and welded to fook
then welded it to a knackered ratchet bar.
used a length of scaffold tube to tighten it all back up...all worked a treat..
good to see you back out on things again.
I been T2 for years, I sort of get it all right, as my 3 month checkups tell me I`ve been good, but admit I cheat at times - but, it all comes good on the check ups..
lower legs have suffered badly though..but....still here to moan/annoy/wtf...lol
abcdedd
New Member
Paul - a minibus full of uni kids coming back from a climbing trip decided to try the Ford a few days ago and got stuck - they didn't quite get washed away, but, did require the fire brigade to recover them!
Was that "shuttleworth college" by any chance?!
Not sure which group it was, do you know them?
abcdedd
New Member
A group i know from the college i used to go to got stuck in a ford the other day yes, much deeper than they were expecitng, ill try and find the photo
Timing belt update.
So I first checked the timing was still set properly with the drillbit, marks and the flywheel tool still in the slot then removed the tensioner/idler and belt so I could clean (ish) the cover .. from this ..
To this
Pulled the crank pulley, checking the two woodruff keys were there and still in good nick .. You can see here that there is an Arrow marked on the casing to correspond with the woodruff keys for timing purposes .. this is hidden by the belt, hence why it's basically at vertical .. but it also means that without a belt you can still get piston to TDC from first principles if/when a timing belt snaps or you take one off and move all the gubbins.
And noted the differences between the old style and new tensioner idlers .. which makes tensioning the timing belt easier, faster and more reliable!
Old at the top, new below ..
Fitted the crank pulley, tensioner and idler loosely and the belt, all dead simple with the supplied instructions. I was a little worried at first when I had to undo the Pump pulley bolts from the timing plate, until it occurred to me that its the plate that does the actual pump timing. The pulley just turns the plate, the belt tensions up and the pulley is effectively set as it was previously, so nothing to go wrong! Tightened up to the torque (seems low, but it was what the manual says), that was it! Easy peasy ..
Then this happened even in the polytunnel garage I couldnt stay out ..
All to do now is to clean the cover and mating surface, put it together, then add on all the bits that were removed for cleaning/fettling and itll be ready to go ..
I have next week off work to finish most of it off.
So I first checked the timing was still set properly with the drillbit, marks and the flywheel tool still in the slot then removed the tensioner/idler and belt so I could clean (ish) the cover .. from this ..
To this
Pulled the crank pulley, checking the two woodruff keys were there and still in good nick .. You can see here that there is an Arrow marked on the casing to correspond with the woodruff keys for timing purposes .. this is hidden by the belt, hence why it's basically at vertical .. but it also means that without a belt you can still get piston to TDC from first principles if/when a timing belt snaps or you take one off and move all the gubbins.
And noted the differences between the old style and new tensioner idlers .. which makes tensioning the timing belt easier, faster and more reliable!
Old at the top, new below ..
Fitted the crank pulley, tensioner and idler loosely and the belt, all dead simple with the supplied instructions. I was a little worried at first when I had to undo the Pump pulley bolts from the timing plate, until it occurred to me that its the plate that does the actual pump timing. The pulley just turns the plate, the belt tensions up and the pulley is effectively set as it was previously, so nothing to go wrong! Tightened up to the torque (seems low, but it was what the manual says), that was it! Easy peasy ..
Then this happened even in the polytunnel garage I couldnt stay out ..
All to do now is to clean the cover and mating surface, put it together, then add on all the bits that were removed for cleaning/fettling and itll be ready to go ..
I have next week off work to finish most of it off.
discovery400
New Member
So will the lifejacket's be fitted under the seats with the scuba gear or without? Glad your ok though, just read through the fred tonight.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
That rain was bloody torrential, I was out in it anorl Paul.
When you say "Tightened up to the torque" do you mean the belt tension? or the bolts?
When you say "Tightened up to the torque" do you mean the belt tension? or the bolts?
Belt tension and the bolts. Belt is now tensioned to a torque whilst the tensioner bolt is tightened. 1/2" sq drive into the square on the tensioner backplate, rotates around the idler mount, then tightened via a socket cap screw. Idler is now a much better fitting than previously, as is the tensioner, and they work well together. It's now a good system.
Previously it looked like they'd mocked it up with Playdough it could move that much! No movement at all now from the tensioner.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Yep I've fitted one, Did you tension the belt with a torque wrench or one of these?
* DRAPER * 1/2 DR NEEDLE TORQUE WRENCH [DR34487] | eBay
I was told to use the above as normal torque wrench wouldn't work.
glad you showed the difference in old and new tensioners, i didnt notice the new type had the step on the back to replace the washer when i did mine.
the pulley rubbed on the cover and bust the belt. it did about 100 miles first though, the teeth were the only part of the belt left, looked like a little ladder.
the pulley rubbed on the cover and bust the belt. it did about 100 miles first though, the teeth were the only part of the belt left, looked like a little ladder.
Done a bit more today .. actually got quite a lot done ..
Fitted Radiator, Intercooler and its hoses, tubes and other gubbins, filled it all with water/Anti-freeze and no leaks!!
Bodged the Alternator fitting for now, bottom stud broke, drill went off as I tried to drill it out, so I just added a plate of aluminium to the fitting and its now sitting how it should, but only really has the top bolt holding it on.
I then started on the turbo/air intake etc. Decided that cos of the winch I need a second battery really, so modified the airbox to suit. I run a Southdown snorkel, which comes into the engine bay where the 2nd battery can fit so having looked at the possibilities I cut out a different entry hole from the airbox, blocked up the standard hole and will cut a hole in the nearside innerwing for the snorkel tube.
How the standard airbox fits with the existing snorkel tube. This is also where the chock and jack also sit. Ive removed them and will carry them separately.
Used a holesaw to open a circular hole in the side facing the engine ..
.. and a dremel type thing to widen it and smooth it ..
Using the Southdown adaptor to check fit ..
How it will look when glued in. Looking directly at the new tube opening with the standard part at 90 degrees ..
How it will look in situ with the tube snaking round the shock tower along the intercooler hose.
How it looks with the top on and turbo inlet tube fitted ..
And how it looks with the standard battery moved across to the space created to see how it fits and get a clue as to the size of battery I can fit there. I'd already modified the power steering fluid reservoir a few months ago with a view to doing this properly at some point.
So it all looks standard ish, the airbox is still on the standard fittings, in the standard place and could easily be returned to standard if I wanted (can't see why). It also means it still runs standard airfilters and I _know_ the sealing of the standard box (well, mine at least) is pretty damn good once the drainage holes are sealed, as mine already are!
Got very close to starting it tonight. TC came round, helped troubleshoot a couple of issues, namely the battery, starter and starter solenoid arent working quite as they should, so Ill strip them off tomorrow and refurb them. It will be running before the weekend ..
Wont be ready completely, seats need fettling, and various other bits and bobs, but itll run ..
Fitted Radiator, Intercooler and its hoses, tubes and other gubbins, filled it all with water/Anti-freeze and no leaks!!
Bodged the Alternator fitting for now, bottom stud broke, drill went off as I tried to drill it out, so I just added a plate of aluminium to the fitting and its now sitting how it should, but only really has the top bolt holding it on.
I then started on the turbo/air intake etc. Decided that cos of the winch I need a second battery really, so modified the airbox to suit. I run a Southdown snorkel, which comes into the engine bay where the 2nd battery can fit so having looked at the possibilities I cut out a different entry hole from the airbox, blocked up the standard hole and will cut a hole in the nearside innerwing for the snorkel tube.
How the standard airbox fits with the existing snorkel tube. This is also where the chock and jack also sit. Ive removed them and will carry them separately.
Used a holesaw to open a circular hole in the side facing the engine ..
.. and a dremel type thing to widen it and smooth it ..
Using the Southdown adaptor to check fit ..
How it will look when glued in. Looking directly at the new tube opening with the standard part at 90 degrees ..
How it will look in situ with the tube snaking round the shock tower along the intercooler hose.
How it looks with the top on and turbo inlet tube fitted ..
And how it looks with the standard battery moved across to the space created to see how it fits and get a clue as to the size of battery I can fit there. I'd already modified the power steering fluid reservoir a few months ago with a view to doing this properly at some point.
So it all looks standard ish, the airbox is still on the standard fittings, in the standard place and could easily be returned to standard if I wanted (can't see why). It also means it still runs standard airfilters and I _know_ the sealing of the standard box (well, mine at least) is pretty damn good once the drainage holes are sealed, as mine already are!
Got very close to starting it tonight. TC came round, helped troubleshoot a couple of issues, namely the battery, starter and starter solenoid arent working quite as they should, so Ill strip them off tomorrow and refurb them. It will be running before the weekend ..
Wont be ready completely, seats need fettling, and various other bits and bobs, but itll run ..
Discovery2TD5
Active Member
Fantastic update.
Don't forget to video the first start!
Don't forget to video the first start!
DavidSally
Active Member
Looking forward to the next thrilling instalment.
Well, I must apologise to all who've been watching this thread and willing the Disco to run, it's been emotional!
I've capitulated .. gone and bought a Defender!
https://www.facebook.com/paul.draper.376/media_set?set=a.10202405250148366.1073741825.1106671544&type=3
The engine of the Disco was turning over, but no fuel was coming from the injectors .. everything else works fine, so presumably the FIP needs stripping and cleaning. Then a couple of days ago, on a whim, so no video, I connected everything up, freshly charged battery, turned it over and it coughed and spluttered to life. Would only run on tickover. Turned it off and then nothing! Nothing whatsoever, it even stopped turning over .. I'd stripped and cleaned the starter and solenoid and know they worked well, I do have a video of that but cba to upload it as it's immaterial now.
I fear the electrics just got too badly burned or corroded to work reliably. I have a new (pre-owned!) loom, but honestly can't see me having the time to do it or rather, to do it properly, hence the spur of the moment decision to look for another running Disco .. went to see a few but they were either ****eheaps or simply too expensive and still ****eheaps.
Then looked at Defenders, again expensive, but then saw this in a local(ish) garage, up at £2995 .. talked them down to a decent price and simply couldn't pass it up!
The deal was test drive today at 11am, it was mine by 12 and home by 1pm ..
So now all the 'extras' I'd bought for the Disco will be fitted to the Defender, and the Disco returned nearer to standard and either sold off or scrapped, dunno yet .. it might even be kept so at a later date I can do a project whereby I remove the 300tdi engine/gearbox etc and transplant them into this Defender! Certainly that's my favourite option right now .. strip the engine etc and do a proper job on it, then get it running with minimal electrical interference.
So I'll now definitely be on the Lakes run in a Defender .. it might be as is or tricked up a bit, dunno yet.
... and there's still a chance that the Disco will run again at a later date .. the chassis is superb, and although the bodywork is a bit battered, there's very little rust on the steel bits and I'd hate to scrap it!
I've capitulated .. gone and bought a Defender!
https://www.facebook.com/paul.draper.376/media_set?set=a.10202405250148366.1073741825.1106671544&type=3
The engine of the Disco was turning over, but no fuel was coming from the injectors .. everything else works fine, so presumably the FIP needs stripping and cleaning. Then a couple of days ago, on a whim, so no video, I connected everything up, freshly charged battery, turned it over and it coughed and spluttered to life. Would only run on tickover. Turned it off and then nothing! Nothing whatsoever, it even stopped turning over .. I'd stripped and cleaned the starter and solenoid and know they worked well, I do have a video of that but cba to upload it as it's immaterial now.
I fear the electrics just got too badly burned or corroded to work reliably. I have a new (pre-owned!) loom, but honestly can't see me having the time to do it or rather, to do it properly, hence the spur of the moment decision to look for another running Disco .. went to see a few but they were either ****eheaps or simply too expensive and still ****eheaps.
Then looked at Defenders, again expensive, but then saw this in a local(ish) garage, up at £2995 .. talked them down to a decent price and simply couldn't pass it up!
The deal was test drive today at 11am, it was mine by 12 and home by 1pm ..
So now all the 'extras' I'd bought for the Disco will be fitted to the Defender, and the Disco returned nearer to standard and either sold off or scrapped, dunno yet .. it might even be kept so at a later date I can do a project whereby I remove the 300tdi engine/gearbox etc and transplant them into this Defender! Certainly that's my favourite option right now .. strip the engine etc and do a proper job on it, then get it running with minimal electrical interference.
So I'll now definitely be on the Lakes run in a Defender .. it might be as is or tricked up a bit, dunno yet.
... and there's still a chance that the Disco will run again at a later date .. the chassis is superb, and although the bodywork is a bit battered, there's very little rust on the steel bits and I'd hate to scrap it!
