midessex · May 2, 2012

Clarky130 said:
SUCCESS!! ...or at least it seems...

Switch arrived from Emmotts today. Got the old one out in-situ... It has 36mm flats on it, but not enough clearance between the switch and pump bodies to get a big socket on it. I just about managed to get it initially loosened with a Viscous Fan spanner, but then had to undo the pump mounts to move it around and get enough of a turn on it to remove it completely. Be aware that the switch body is milled Aluminium and is easily damaged by a steel spanner! Had shedloads of brake fluid come out, so a small thin tray of some sort underneath it would have been a good idea... The absorbent cloth I stuffed under there was quickly overwhelmed! Thankfully, the brake fluid followed a path that took it away from the top of the air spring, hoses, anything rubber, etc so hopefully I got away with it... Just had to thoroughly clean it off the bodywork.

Now, pump runs as soon as the ign is turned on, pressurises the system and stops after a seemingly sensible time. Brake pedal is nice and firm too. Won't get a chance to road test it until the Nagger get back from work... Not too keen on having the Clarkylets in the car until I've proven the brakes work!

Thanks for your info and research on this matter. I have just had mine diagnosed with faulty pressure switch.

Is this something I'll be able to do with limited Mechanical experience? I will be phoning Emmotts in the morning to try and order the pressure switch for the weekend.

Are there any special tools you'll think i'll need.

Clarky130 · May 2, 2012

midessex said:
Thanks for your info and research on this matter. I have just had mine diagnosed with faulty pressure switch.

Is this something I'll be able to do with limited Mechanical experience? I will be phoning Emmotts in the morning to try and order the pressure switch for the weekend.

Are there any special tools you'll think i'll need.

Yes, a 36mm spanner will be required to unscrew the switch from the pump. Be aware it's bloody tight, and the switch body is milled aluminium, so easily damaged if your spanner slips off. A viscous fan spanner will do the trick, if youre careful. Because of the limited clearance between the pump and switch bodies, you won't be able to get much of a turn on it before you need to remove and reposition the spanner either. I found that undoing the bracket on the alarm sounder and sliding it back out of the way gave me JUST enough clearance to get the spanner on it, and whack it with a hammer until it broke the thread free.

Good luck - and DON'T forget to completely depressurise the brake system before attempting to undo ANYTHING! (30 full pumps on the pedal, leave for 60 seconds, another 4, with ignition kept OFF).

midessex · May 3, 2012

Many thanks for the advice, just ordered the bits from Emmotts for delivery Friday.
I am assuming the Switch is located under the pump which is under the a accumlator, I haven't had chance to have a good look due to the rain down here.
You said you did it with the pump in situ did you do it all from above the car or did you need to get under the car? I havn't ordered an accumlator as it was only the pressure switched that was at fault although why I have the brakes in bits I will be changing the resesvior and fluid sensor as the sensor is faulty and now forms part of the MOT.

Clarky130 · May 3, 2012

midessex said:
Many thanks for the advice, just ordered the bits from Emmotts for delivery Friday.
I am assuming the Switch is located under the pump which is under the a accumlator, I haven't had chance to have a good look due to the rain down here.
You said you did it with the pump in situ did you do it all from above the car or did you need to get under the car? I havn't ordered an accumlator as it was only the pressure switched that was at fault although why I have the brakes in bits I will be changing the resesvior and fluid sensor as the sensor is faulty and now forms part of the MOT.

The switch is the large-diameter green thing on the left-hand side of the pump as you look from the front of the car. It's all mounted on top of the inner wing, so you'd have one hell of a job trying to get it from underneath!! So no crawling on your back required for this one!

I would hold fire just yet on changing reservoirs and fliud level sensors - presumably you have a persistent "low brake fluid level" warning? I also had this, and it disappeared when I installed the new pressure switch!

midessex · May 3, 2012

Found it, with the Multi Plug in the end of it.

Look quite straight foward, thanks for the advice on changing the resesvior I will leave that and see what happens.

Just one more question sorry to be a pain, when you bleed the brakes did you have the car up on stands or the wheel off or can I gain enough access to the bleed valve with the car on the ground, mines on springs not Air Bags.

First time i've bleed the brakes on a car. am looking forward to doing the job, lets hope the rain holds off for Saturday!!!!!

Clarky130 · May 3, 2012

midessex said:
Found it, with the Multi Plug in the end of it.

Look quite straight foward, thanks for the advice on changing the resesvior I will leave that and see what happens.

Just one more question sorry to be a pain, when you bleed the brakes did you have the car up on stands or the wheel off or can I gain enough access to the bleed valve with the car on the ground, mines on springs not Air Bags.

First time i've bleed the brakes on a car. am looking forward to doing the job, lets hope the rain holds off for Saturday!!!!!

Believe it or not I never actually had to bleed mine - they were firm and much improved right from the off. I knows I really SHOULD have bled them, but I didn't - I took one look at the torturous procedure in RAVE and though 'sod that' - which ISN'T the right way to go about things, in truth... so sorry, can't advise on that one!

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