If your using your diesel multigrade in a diesel that must be a good thing. And your Ford spec 5/30 is in a Ford! Many Ford duratorq turbos have been ruined by using fleet oils ie not Ford spec.
I am talking rv8 in particular the ones with crank driven oil pumps. ( Although pre serps would also benefit). Thor which bit of info would you like source for? That 20/50 mineral doesn't give as as good lubrication as 10/50 synthetic. (Or even 10/40 semi). Transit Vans run 20000 mile oil changes. With 5/30. This isn't even top notch oil either. Just the correct spec. I bet a mineral would struggle with 10000. And the engine would be scrap after 100000. The original motor craft 5/30 was a semi as well.
 
johnnyb70 said:
If your using your diesel multigrade in a diesel that must be a good thing. And your Ford spec 5/30 is in a Ford! Many Ford duratorq turbos have been ruined by using fleet oils ie not Ford spec.
I am talking rv8 in particular the ones with crank driven oil pumps. ( Although pre serps would also benefit). Thor which bit of info would you like source for? That 20/50 mineral doesn't give as as good lubrication as 10/50 synthetic. (Or even 10/40 semi). Transit Vans run 20000 mile oil changes. With 5/30. This isn't even top notch oil either. Just the correct spec. I bet a mineral would struggle with 10000. And the engine would be scrap after 100000. The original motor craft 5/30 was a semi as well.
Click to expand...
where you said multi gets thicker as it gets older.
That distance between oil changes is amazing. You guys in the UK must have some fantastic oil and filters. How about sharing that with the rest of the world.
oil change every 6k ford specked oil got close to 300k miles on it.
 
20/50 doesn't get thicker the viscosity modifiers (the things that make multigrade work) break down so it tend to drift towards it base oil weight. Eg 20/50 base may be 35 viscosity so as the vm gets chopped about it will get thicker when cold and thinner when warm. Think stp when you think viscosity modifiers. The 20000 mile oil change is very regularly exceeded 30000 isn't unknown naughty but it happens! I think the 5-6000 oil change is positive for longevity but arose from issues with minerals all through the eighties (sludge)
 
PS that total rubia is a heavy duty commercial vehicle diesel oil not unlike rotella. Not really for cars!
I find car makers are real oil whores and shop about like all of us. At the first change the franchise will put anything in. not factory fill but cheapest.
 
johnnyb70 said:
PS that total rubia is a heavy duty commercial vehicle diesel oil not unlike rotella. Not really for cars!
I find car makers are real oil whores and shop about like all of us. At the first change the franchise will put anything in. not factory fill but cheapest.
Click to expand...
why won't rotella work for cars especially the rotella-t which is for diesel. That is great oil, works well for american 6L V8 gas burners.
 
It's not that it won't work if it's the correct viscosity it just won't have an appropriate additive package.
 
This topic sort-of makes my head spin.
The RR user handbook just says (for our winter temps) ACEA A1/2 SAE 10-40/50/60 grades.
But this topic sort-of says different.
So what's the ZDDP thing and is it truly of Value?
It seems I can get old fashioned Comma 20/50 X-Flow Mineral at a sensible price and its spec says Zinc 0.08% and its for "older engines" (probably means high-mileage lumps).
A 4.6 HC Range Rover non super/turbo charged engine standard synthetics or old Mineral. I've read the posts but am still a bit confused as to why the Manufacturer would not mandate older Mineral high ZDDP formulations if it is indeed so important for long trouble-free engine life.
 
Thor1950 said:
where you said multi gets thicker as it gets older.
That distance between oil changes is amazing. You guys in the UK must have some fantastic oil and filters. How about sharing that with the rest of the world.
oil change every 6k ford specked oil got close to 300k miles on it.
Click to expand...
Well, we do wonder why the USA seems to use such terrible oil.... 30k between changes on my BMW, and thats a ten year old car... just rolled past 200k. The trick isnt difficult but the USA seems wedded to the 3000 mile myth and wont move on - kind of like your amazing infatuation with imperal inch spanners and threads.
 
DanClarke said:
This topic sort-of makes my head spin.
The RR user handbook just says (for our winter temps) ACEA A1/2 SAE 10-40/50/60 grades.
But this topic sort-of says different.
So what's the ZDDP thing and is it truly of Value?
It seems I can get old fashioned Comma 20/50 X-Flow Mineral at a sensible price and its spec says Zinc 0.08% and its for "older engines" (probably means high-mileage lumps).
A 4.6 HC Range Rover non super/turbo charged engine standard synthetics or old Mineral. I've read the posts but am still a bit confused as to why the Manufacturer would not mandate older Mineral high ZDDP formulations if it is indeed so important for long trouble-free engine life.
Click to expand...

ZDDP is an upper cylinder lube that is possbily needed or of value on older engines. It can be removed without losing spec of the base oil certification, and is often kept down to solve catalytic converter poisoning issues.
 
chris-the-gerbil said:
USA seems wedded to the 3000 mile myth and wont move on
Click to expand...

Always surprised me on the brand new J**p I leased in the States, Iirc that was 3K between oil changes, one drive across the country and I had to have an oil change to drive back the other way...........:eek::eek:. No wonder they have kwiki oil change places that suck the oil out and drop new stuff in within 5 minutes and for $20 seem to thrive.

Cheers
 
Just checked my handbook and land Rover seem to recommend 5/40 or 5/50 for -30to plus 50. But your right -10 to 50 it's 10/40 50 60. No mention of 20/50 though. Zddp is an additive thought to help with cam wear on flat tappet engines (rv8). Being as how serpentine rv8 run at 90-100c and have flat tappets I felt it was a great oil for these engines. Full stop. 20/50 is/was great for minis . Rv8 serps have that contrary need. Zddp for the cam lobes and full synthetic for high temperatures. Every v8 has an engine oil cooler but still runs hot! 20/50 after 6mths of towing will be to thin when hot.by all means run 20/50 full synthetic . It will just bypass the filter for 5 miles in winter. Land Rover specified sg or sh oil. These still had good zddp levels(back in the day) don't be fooled by these sg or sh on modern oils only the latest is policed.
 
johnnyb70 said:
PS that total rubia is a heavy duty commercial vehicle diesel oil not unlike rotella. Not really for cars!
I find car makers are real oil whores and shop about like all of us. At the first change the franchise will put anything in. not factory fill but cheapest.
Click to expand...

I was aware of that, having been operating cars, landrovers, tractors, cars, and boats for about 40 years.

Diesel oils always have a spec in excess of equivalent grade petrol oils. So are also eminently suitable for petrol engines.

I use that oil because it is suitable for all my vehicles, so low cost, and not too many containers in the workshop. You will notice it contains high levels of wear additives, so it should be good for the tappet wear that concerns you. It gave good service in my 3.9 Disco, and in my wifes petrol Yaris.
Nothing wrong with Pennrite, but it is an expensive premium product, and it not necessary for most users to pay the extra.
 
It's not really a premium product! I can understand buying bulk oil for your fleet. But one turbo goes bang cos you've used mid saps instead of low saps oil and any savings are gone. Oil posts always get out of hand on forums! Take my recommendation with a pinch of salt pleese. All oil is equal! Even wilko 20/50.
 
chris-the-gerbil said:
Well, we do wonder why the USA seems to use such terrible oil.... 30k between changes on my BMW, and thats a ten year old car... just rolled past 200k. The trick isnt difficult but the USA seems wedded to the 3000 mile myth and wont move on - kind of like your amazing infatuation with imperal inch spanners and threads.
Click to expand...
That myth you mention was for old cars from the 80's. They have stretched them out to 10k but find that difficult to agree with or until the idiot lites tell you time for oil change oil or the add oil lite comes on. but pickups are 5-7k depending on the environment they are operated in. I'll stay with my manufacture recommendation of 5-6k between oil/filter changes. then the winter switch to 10/30 from the summer 15/40 oil
 
Thor1950 said:
That myth you mention was for old cars from the 80's. They have stretched them out to 10k but find that difficult to agree with or until the idiot lites tell you time for oil change oil or the add oil lite comes on. but pickups are 5-7k depending on the environment they are operated in. I'll stay with my manufacture recommendation of 5-6k between oil/filter changes. then the winter switch to 10/30 from the summer 15/40 oil
Click to expand...
Yeah....

My car. Uk. Recommended interval is up to 30k

In the US.. same engine and oil... 6k.

Because 1950s mentality.

As for changing the viscosity grade... you dont need to change the upper grade point its gets to the same operating temp summer or winter....
 
Last edited:
chris-the-gerbil said:
Yeah....

My car. Uk. Recommended interval is up to 30k

In the US.. same engine and oil... 6k.

Because 1950s mentality.
Click to expand...

Depends on the oil and car. Synthetic oils, particularly top end can go long intervals. You canfeel the engine holding back when it is not right though. Semi-synthetic 10/40 of reasonable grade at 5k intervals should see you safe and save you money in reduced fuel and wear... as a rough guide!
 
Grrrrrr said:
Depends on the oil and car. Synthetic oils, particularly top end can go long intervals. You canfeel the engine holding back when it is not right though. Semi-synthetic 10/40 of reasonable grade at 5k intervals should see you safe and save you money in reduced fuel and wear... as a rough guide!
Click to expand...

I can spend £36 for 5 litres of fully synth every 30k - or I can spend about £20 six times over...

I know which is going to cost me more - and a 10W grade oil will have more wear at start up than the 0W I currently use.
 
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