Shimsteriom

Master Procrastinator

• Aug 31, 2017

• #1

Evening All

Looking at checking the infamous Oil-Pump Bolt on my TD5 soon, but before I do, I thought I'd check a few things with the collective LZ brain.

I've already got the new bolt (Original LR Part), but with regard to the sump gasket, can I get away with an after-market part, or is this another case of always original? Also, should I order new sump bolts in case the current ones break, or the heads round off, or will they be fine? The engine has done 105k, and to my knowledge, the sump has never been off before.

 

J

joojar

Active Member

• Aug 31, 2017

• #2

Did mine recently, biggest fight was getting the cross-member off.

YMMV, but I'd prepare to use brute force and ignorance on the majority of the criss-member bolts, and have enough new nuts and bolts on hand to remove and replace all 8 captive nuts (you can punch them off upwards through the holes with the right sized drift), and all 8 bolts.

That is unless you're already 99% sure the x-member comes off fine - in which case, you lucky b***er!

 

Shimsteriom

Master Procrastinator

• Aug 31, 2017

• #3

joojar said:

Did mine recently, biggest fight was getting the cross-member off.

YMMV, but I'd prepare to use brute force and ignorance on the majority of the criss-member bolts, and have enough new nuts and bolts on hand to remove and replace all 8 captive nuts (you can punch them off upwards through the holes with the right sized drift), and all 8 bolts.

That is unless you're already 99% sure the x-member comes off fine - in which case, you lucky b***er!

Click to expand...

Thanks, the cross-member was off recently while the gearbox was removed to fit a new clutch and DM flywheel, so it'll be fine, I hope....

 

J

joojar

Active Member

• Aug 31, 2017

• #4

Shimsteriom said:

Thanks, the cross-member was off recently while the gearbox was removed to fit a new clutch and DM flywheel, so it'll be fine, I hope....

Click to expand...

In which case, I wouldn't bother with new bolts for the sump. Torque setting is pretty mild (they only have to hold crank case pressure, negligible compared to cylinder pressure) and they're highly unlikely to be corroded in

 

brian47

Well-Known Member

• Aug 31, 2017

• #5

Loads of information on this job including re-assembly tightening sequence at:-
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_pump_bolt.html

I must admit that I don't know the thread size of the sump bolts, but from my experience of aluminium blocks in the past, I would definitely recommend that you get hold of a Helicoil kit for the sump bolts, just in case.
Maybe somebody like @neilly, @sierrafery or @jamesmartin could help with the apppropriate size coils.

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Aug 31, 2017

• #6

sump bolts are m8 x 1.25

 

Feathers McGraw

Well-Known Member

• Sep 1, 2017

• #7

I used a genuine gasket on mine. Sump bolts came off quite easily, just use a quality socket and take your time with them. I drew round the gasket onto a card and fitted the bolts into that as they came off and numbered the holes so I could follow the order to undo them.

 

Feathers McGraw

Well-Known Member

• Sep 1, 2017

• #8

Also I still found it quite tight getting the sump past the axle even with the suspension dropped as far as it would go without taking more bits off. I think I swore once or twice.

 

Shimsteriom

Master Procrastinator

• Sep 1, 2017

• #9

Feathers McGraw said:

Also I still found it quite tight getting the sump past the axle even with the suspension dropped as far as it would go without taking more bits off. I think I swore once or twice.

Click to expand...

It can't have been that bad if you only swore once or twice

 

Feathers McGraw

Well-Known Member

• Sep 1, 2017

• #10

I only swore until I ran out of breath. Honest.