Regarding the axial needle roller bearings, I always remove the cages to check that the races haven’t begun to spall but I don’t replace them all unless I see a problem.

raceway.jpg


Heat spotting on the B-clutch steel plates is ‘normal’. The steel plates are a ridiculous price – it’s your choice whether you wish to replace them.

Yes, I was meaning removing assembly 556 from 554 to check the condition of 380 (the standard failure item in the 5HP24, though I suspect that yours is okay).

O-ringSplit.jpg


With the valve block I was suggesting that you post it to me (along with the gasket from the kit) and I’ll vacuum test it, check all the spring lengths & rebuild it. It costs around £40 for return postage.
 
Just a quick one bemble, cleaning the friction plates and bearings, hot soapy water and then re-oil at reassembly?
 
To be honest, I only ever wipe the friction plates down with lint-free material rather than ‘clean’ them. The friction material is just a mix of paper & resin so you need to be a bit careful. ATF contains detergent anyway. Certainly best to soak new plates in fresh fluid before installation. I disassemble the axial needle roller bearings to get them clean (just using Gunk & a wash tank) but be careful not to mark the race surface when prising off the cage from the centre of the race.
 
Bemble said:
Regarding the axial needle roller bearings, I always remove the cages to check that the races haven’t begun to spall but I don’t replace them all unless I see a problem.


Heat spotting on the B-clutch steel plates is ‘normal’. The steel plates are a ridiculous price – it’s your choice whether you wish to replace them.

Yes, I was meaning removing assembly 556 from 554 to check the condition of 380 (the standard failure item in the 5HP24, though I suspect that yours is ok

With the valve block I was suggesting that you post it to me (along with the gasket from the kit) and I’ll vacuum test it, check all the spring lengths & rebuild it. It costs around £40 for return postage.
Click to expand...

thanks very much for the detail, we will have a look at the bearing races for sure

the plates although a few heat spots measured ok on all the clutches, do the friction plates work out reasonably priced?
i will change as much as i can afford as i dont want to take this out again, although loony does look quite happy under the rangey..

when i'm back in my garage i will check those parts, i have been studying that parts breakdown trying to guess which part was which, we must have split that apart when we checked all the plates but we didnt look at the o ring so will check that

as far as the valve block goes, that would be ideal if you could look over it and work your magic if needed, i normally use interlink to collect from my house and i can arrange the same your end if that helps you, just let me know what i need to do and what your cost is, cash or beer are both currencies i deal in:D

thanks very much for the help and support
Andy
 
There’s no cost involved (I rebuild them for my own entertainment :D) if you can supply the gasket from the kit along with the valve block. If you leave the wiring harness attached I can check that too. I’ll PM you the shipping address. It takes me around 4 days to turn one around.

The B/D/E friction plates are around £5 each but the steel plates are something stupid like £25 each, from memory.
 
Bemble said:
There’s no cost involved (I rebuild them for my own entertainment :D) if you can supply the gasket from the kit along with the valve block. If you leave the wiring harness attached I can check that too. I’ll PM you the shipping address. It takes me around 4 days to turn one around.

The B/D/E friction plates are around £5 each but the steel plates are something stupid like £25 each, from memory.
Click to expand...

That's brilliant, I'll take a look on my messages
I'll most likely change the friction plates but I think the steels will be fine
 
myfirstl322 said:
Howzitgoing?
Click to expand...

sorry, ive been away a bit this week.
the story so far, box is out and stripped, torque converter went off today to sussex autoparts to be reconditioned and i picked up new D clutch plates and F clutch plates, overhaul kit, output shaft seal and a few other bits at the same time.

Bemble is very kindly going to take a look over my valve body so thats going off tomorrow for some expert care.

we still need to make ourselves something to compress the piston springs to change the piston o rings and and we will probably start changing o rings and seals etc over the weekend.
so far so good

ouch.......

IMAGE0020_zpsf2ecf5bb.jpg
 
small update, most of the overhaul kit fitted, still need to clean the main case and fit the o rings to the oil pump.

made some piston compressors, thanks to bemble's dimensions and constant stream of help and advice, although we didnt have access to a lathe this weekend so i improvised using b&q 2mm flat bar bent into the diameter required, tube and box section. we also hand crafted a press using wood and a small bottle jack which worked a treat although it would have looked more at home compressing the straw bearings on a horse and cart, circa 1750.

my mate(loony) welded everything with a welder he was given which neither of us knew how to use, so not a bad first attempt reckon

getting ready to put all the guts back in the box although the output shaft seal i was supplied is incorrect, although the paperwork is right, so need to change that and the TC comes back tomorrow.

the compressors
IMG_1614_zpsa350c0bf.jpg


and in action

IMG_1612_zps1fd936f6.jpg


my spinning jenny style bench press

IMG_1611_zpsc10cb630.jpg


thanks to bemble again for his help so far and to all the input from this site

the story goes on.....
 
Bemble said:
Yes, I was meaning removing assembly 556 from 554 to check the condition of 380 (the standard failure item in the 5HP24, though I suspect that yours is okay).

O-ringSplit.jpg
Click to expand...

yes mine was ok but replaced it as part of the overhaul kit along with the bearing which was also fine to look at
 
lol, loving the press, great progress, you must be feeling proud of your achievments, well done. I'd love to strip my box but (touch your wooden press) it works perfectly. I think bemble mentioned the seal would be wrong in an earlier post, i could be wrong... keep up the good work guys.
 
myfirstl322 said:
lol, loving the press, great progress, you must be feeling proud of your achievments, well done. I'd love to strip my box but (touch your wooden press) it works perfectly. I think bemble mentioned the seal would be wrong in an earlier post, i could be wrong... keep up the good work guys.
Click to expand...

hi, not got to the proud phase yet, we'll see if it works first. it seems to take an age but its mainly because its our first time and we need to keep checking manuals and making and adjusting tools. i don't really have a large working area and loony reckons its like working in a ^&**$£* phone box:D

if yours is working fine then i wouldn't take it apart to see how it works :)

bemble said my seal would be ok as i didn't really have a gearbox fail, its normally gone when the axial bearing has failed also, again mine was ok, my symptoms were more like a torque converter issue hopefully .......

cheers
 
Quick update for anyone who hasn't committed suicide on my behalf or just out of boredom.
The transmission is 98% back together, just need to confirm end floats.

My mentor Bemble has overhauled my valve block because he is a legend and that is due back soon.

Going to remove the flywheel and check the crankshaft oil seal and other potential engine oil leaks we mentioned earlier.

i have honestly never drunk so much tea in my life......
 
Not good enough, i get bad when i'm bored:rolleyes:

Joking aside, thanks for update, i presume your fitting a new TC, or is it re-con?

Your quite right to tackle any other issues, you'll prob be a couple of weeks yet to refit i guess, or will you throw it in this weekend?
 
myfirstl322 said:
Not good enough, i get bad when i'm bored:rolleyes:

Joking aside, thanks for update, i presume your fitting a new TC, or is it re-con?

Your quite right to tackle any other issues, you'll prob be a couple of weeks yet to refit i guess, or will you throw it in this weekend?
Click to expand...

the TC has been refurbed at sussex which i am a little concerned about as both times they have sold or tried to sell me the wrong ZF parts so i hope they are better at torque converters,i'll email them before its goes in to check their warranty. maybe i have just been unlucky by going around at lunchtime and getting the untrained staff
the times i have used JPAT for the spares they have been spot on.

i think this weekend will see a lot of it out the way although we have the engine oil seals to look at and all the new oil cooler parts to go on also..
 
Bemble I have a question about the output shaft float,

We are working from a generic ZF manual and it shows a different output shaft to output flange. The output flange just has a seal and no ball bearing. unlike the one pictured which I am sure you know.








Is there specific information for the L322 ZF5hp24 output shaft float? seeing as this shaft will go into the transfer box and not have an output flange.

And how do we adjust the output shaft end float? There are selective shims but I cant picture where we would put them with a Range rover rear end to transfer box.





thanks,
 
Last edited:
Because the rear epicyclic carrier/ouput shaft extends all the way out of the back of the transmission on the L322 (unlike any of the other versions of the 5HP24)

RearEpicyclicPlanetCarriers.jpg


it’s a simple job to set up the rear end float as you measure it directly (in the same way as the input shaft end float). The clearance should be between 0.25 and 0.45mm.

EndFloat.jpg


OutputShimLocation_zps877e6137.jpg


If you do need an alternative shim just let me know – I bought a job lot off Land Rover!

OutputShims_zps1a3573b9.jpg


P.S. The courier has collected the valve block so I guess you’ll receive it tomorrow
 
Bemble, further down the line when we come to start the engine for the first time since all the work,

how do you suggest we go about that? considering that the TC is empty, the heat exchange pipes/heat exchanger will be empty, along with pretty much everything in the gearbox apart from assembly oil we have squirted around.

I could take some time to prime some of the components.

I am wondering if there is a way to turn the engine over using the starter motor but not have it fire up. usually I could just pull the King lead but this thing looks a lot more complicated.

I can get to the front crank nut to rotate the engine which I will have to do to fit the TC to the flywheel.

I need to check that engine rotates clock wise as you look at the pulley on the front?

Also once the engine is running and we have the oil level right in the gearbox, I have to calibrate the Transfer box as I have had to remove the motor to see if it was working.

Any potential issues with that? I don't want to mess the motor up seeing at LR quoted £1700 for a new one.

and in another post on the forum, where we have had the battery off, we have to turn the steering lock to lock to clear warning codes for the sensors?

I heard also that these suffer airlocks when filling cooling system with water, any tips on avoiding that?
 
Last edited:
loony said:
.....

and in another post on the forum, where we have had the battery off, we have to turn the steering lock to lock to clear warning codes for the sensors?

I heard also that these suffer airlocks when filling cooling system with water, any tips on avoiding that?
Click to expand...
Yep turn steering lock to lock to reset the Steering angle sensor...

As for filling the cooling system, I take the top hose off and fill that to back fill as much as I can through the alternator and block, then fill up the rad through the hole where the top hose goes..this fills the rad and up to the thermostat. Then replace the top hose and fill the expansion tank and loosen the bleed screw.

Start engine and burp hoses and keep filling the expansion tank...just keep going until the engine is up to temp, and the bleed screw is running water and not spitting at you.

This method has worked for me, but not saying it is the definitive way!
 
Saint.V8 said:
Yep turn steering lock to lock to reset the Steering angle sensor...

As for filling the cooling system, I take the top hose off and fill that to back fill as much as I can through the alternator and block, then fill up the rad through the hole where the top hose goes..this fills the rad and up to the thermostat. Then replace the top hose and fill the expansion tank and loosen the bleed screw.

Start engine and burp hoses and keep filling the expansion tank...just keep going until the engine is up to temp, and the bleed screw is running water and not spitting at you.

This method has worked for me, but not saying it is the definitive way!
Click to expand...

yu do wot????? :eek:
 
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