kermit_rr said:
I don't see how dodgy injector seals would impact diesel getting into the oil, a damaged injector might if it was sticking open but you'd notice this in the way the engine is running and what's coming out of the exhaust surely?
Click to expand...
It depends which seal - there are two "seals", an O-ring and a Copper washer.

A fairly common issue on the TD5 engine really, the O-ring seals between the fuel rail and the injector, if damaged or scored diesel can blow up past them and into the top of the head.
 
Well, it looks like a false alarm thank goodness.
I measured the oil l took out and there was just over seven litres, about right.
So it doesn’t look like there was too much in the sump, as l had thought (it read a bit high on the dip stick)
When l refilled it l put in 7.5 litres, looking at what’s left from 2x5 litre cans of oil.
The oil level is about 1cm high on the dip stick but has stayed at that level.
I guess l put a bit too much in, as l didn’t remove the oil filter and that’s half a litre.
 
tbh crack the sump plug and let some dribble out, overfilling can be as bad as underfilling, dont let it go above the H
 
I was going to do that but l didn’t think 1cm would matter.

I will do it at the weekend, hopefully l won’t lose the lot when l loosen the sump plug as has happened before....the sump plug suddenly came loose and the oil flipped it out of my hand, it rolled off down the drive and what a mess to clear up afterwards
 
crack it with a spanner while pushing upwards until it starts to dribble then be patient and keep checking the level.

Yep, overfilling can be bad, probably half a litre your over by there (ish) it probably wont actually do anything but why risk it
 
So l’ve just been outside and changed the oil filter, now the oil level is just on max.
Result!

The oil filter was a genuine LR one, interesting that it had a non return valve so the oil stayed in the filter even when turned on it’s side.
Fortunately the spare l had was also genuine LR.
In the past l’ve used pattern parts and when you tip the filter sideways to get it out, the oil went everywhere.

lt’s LR original filters for me in future
 
landrover11019 said:
LR specialist change seals BEFORE checking battery and starter?
Not good.
Click to expand...

l don’t know. They said LR recommend an “injector service” at 100,000.
It’s done 101,000

l said go ahead and do it. TBH the engine turned over enthusiastically on the starter, it wasn’t sluggish or anything.

l started a thread on why it might be taking a while to start and injector seals were mentioned more than once as a possible reason, along with the MAF, the fuel filter housing, the FPR, the battery, air leaks in the fuel system, faulty injectors, cracked head, injector harness and oil in the main harness, fuel pump faults, and more.

l gave it to the LR garage to try and sort and they said that they changed parts in order of probability.
 
lightning said:
l don’t know. They said LR recommend an “injector service” at 100,000.
It’s done 101,000

l said go ahead and do it. TBH the engine turned over enthusiastically on the starter, it wasn’t sluggish or anything.

l started a thread on why it might be taking a while to start and injector seals were mentioned more than once as a possible reason, along with the MAF, the fuel filter housing, the FPR, the battery, air leaks in the fuel system, faulty injectors, cracked head, injector harness and oil in the main harness, fuel pump faults, and more.

l gave it to the LR garage to try and sort and they said that they changed parts in order of probability.
Click to expand...
Is it starting better from cold now lightening?
 
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