Sometimes new brake pads are a little generously proportioned compared to the space available between the disc and calliper. I've resorted to sanding a bit off EBC Greenstuff pads in the past to get them to fit in the past. Is that the problem? Or are the pistons coming out and not going back in?
 
I've got no idea it failed on it's MOT, we pulled it into the workshop and it was binding.. didn't have the problem for the first 2 miles driving to the workshop but suddenly down a hill it all went wrong, can feel it pull
Brown said:
Sometimes new brake pads are a little generously proportioned compared to the space available between the disc and calliper. I've resorted to sanding a bit off EBC Greenstuff pads in the past to get them to fit in the past. Is that the problem? Or are the pistons coming out and not going back in?
Click to expand...
 
Ah, that sounds like something else that happened to me. The first time I rebuilt my brakes I was being a bit too ambitious in adjusting the push rod that activates the master cylinder. I was trying to get the bite point a bit higher up the pedal travel. I arrived at a point where the brakes seemed fine when I set off, but after a few miles were binding really badly. This can generally be sorted by winding the push rod adjuster in a bit so that it is effectively shorter. Fortunately this doesn't require too much dismantling - I've found that if you undo the master cylinder from the servo you can gently flex it away on its metal pipes and get at the push rod. So no need to undo the pipes, refill and bleed every time.
 
Brown said:
Ah, that sounds like something else that happened to me. The first time I rebuilt my brakes I was being a bit too ambitious in adjusting the push rod that activates the master cylinder. I was trying to get the bite point a bit higher up the pedal travel. I arrived at a point where the brakes seemed fine when I set off, but after a few miles were binding really badly. This can generally be sorted by winding the push rod adjuster in a bit so that it is effectively shorter. Fortunately this doesn't require too much dismantling - I've found that if you undo the master cylinder from the servo you can gently flex it away on its metal pipes and get at the push rod. So no need to undo the pipes, refill and bleed every time.
Click to expand...
so tldr

i rebuilt the whole brake system

added braided lines
i had the old servo and brake bias

i upgraded them and fitted them to the old pedal box (drilled the holes for the new servo)

The pin lined up perfectly.. I don't know.. really confused..

Plus it's only the drivers side front?
 
parts used:

- Brake Master Cylinder - LR013018
- Servo - LR013488
- Brake Pressure Reducing Valve - NTC8836

what else could cause it to bind? CV or something?
 
If you think it’s binding crack the bleed a little to allow a weep. And see if it releases.

Have you set the pedal height ? You may not have any free play to allow fluid return
(You have refitted the return spring to the pedal?)
 
Hicap phill said:
If you think it’s binding crack the bleed a little to allow a weep. And see if it releases.

Have you set the pedal height ? You may not have any free play to allow fluid return
(You have refitted the return spring to the pedal?)
Click to expand...
I never took the pedal box out at all, 90 200tdi pedal box with 300tdi brake system

If it weeps out and then releases, we thinking maybe brake bias? weird how it's just on the 1 wheel?

Is there any guides on the pedal height?
 
Yes, when they bind, especially when it's just on the point of being too tight, they don't do so evenly. In my case it was mostly the rear ones that were dragging and getting hot. Have a look at that push rod I mentioned above and wind it in a few turns so it's a little shorter and see if you still get the problem. That'll also take care of the pedal setting.
 
RustyDefender said:
Where abouts is the push rod located?
Click to expand...
Between master cylinder and brake pedal, can see it if you remove the blank plate on top of the pedal box.
Could also be dry brake caliper piston
seals, when new the buggers dont like to slide.
 
The one I was talking about is between the servo and the master cylinder. As above, if you loosen the master cylinder and gently bend it away from the servo, there's enough flex in the pipes to let you see the push rod. To adjust it easily you might need to wedge the brake pedal down so it sticks out. Have a look at it and it should be pretty obvious how you can screw it in and out. Make it a few turns shorter and see if the brakes still drag.

Also as above, you don't notice this straight away - it usually comes on after you've driven a few miles.
 
Brown said:
The one I was talking about is between the servo and the master cylinder. As above, if you loosen the master cylinder and gently bend it away from the servo, there's enough flex in the pipes to let you see the push rod. To adjust it easily you might need to wedge the brake pedal down so it sticks out. Have a look at it and it should be pretty obvious how you can screw it in and out. Make it a few turns shorter and see if the brakes still drag.

Also as above, you don't notice this straight away - it usually comes on after you've driven a few miles.
Click to expand...
Was exactly that. Cheers @Brown
 
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