listerdiesel

Well-Known Member
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I keep an eye on Discovery 2 stuff on ebay, and manage to pick up the odd bargain every now and then.

The last good one was a new genuine D2 V8 fuel pump in a LR box for under £20, latest is a pair of crankshaft and camshaft sensors for the Thor engine for £40 including postage, both new in boxes.

At those prices, I can afford to keep a running stock of the more expensive bits without breaking the bank.

Some things are strategic and I'll be looking at a major job in the future, while others are purely impulse, just for the fun of it ;)

With two D2 V8's in the family, we try and keep emergency breakdown parts in the cars, like a crankshaft sensor and a fuel pump.

Peter
 
Really must cut an access hole in my rear floor.

I replaced the floor with chequerplate a few years back and cavalierly/lazily decided to keep the floor nice and neat and not have access panel.

the floor is bonded and riveted too

really must do something before i need to.

rivnuts and bolts would be nice, to remove the whole floor i mean...
 
i would go for m6...and stainless bolts!!! must be stainless with copperslip, cos otherwise 5 yrs down the road......bugger..insert spinning..
 
We only use stainless, forgot that everyone else doesn't :)

It became cheaper for the factory to buy all stainless fasteners so 10 years back, and we've kept to that since.

Plated bolts were coming in with cheap plating knocked off in the box, and getting black fasteners freshly plated was a fortune, so we generally use A2 stainless up to M12.

Peter
 
How do you guys find stainless bolts for strength compared to 8.8 and beyond?

Have often considered stainless bolts for axle components but shyed away from it because when I rebuilt my engine I used stainless fasteners and some of them were quite easy to shear when torquing so care had to be taken (no internal bolts by the way! :p)
 
I keep an eye on a few different search terms and have picked up a few bargains as I know I will need to use it eventually etc
 
How do you guys find stainless bolts for strength compared to 8.8 and beyond?

Have often considered stainless bolts for axle components but shied away from it because when I rebuilt my engine I used stainless fasteners and some of them were quite easy to shear when torquing so care had to be taken (no internal bolts by the way! :p)

Stainless is not 'high tensile' as in steel HT bolts, so use with care, but we have used them to hold our axles on our trailers since day one and never had a failure. All of the body fastners on the trailer are stainless, and all of our industrial chargers use stainless.

For anything where you need 8.8 or higher, then use plated steel fasteners.

The main steering pivot pin on the trailer is 75mm diameter stainless and we had all sorts of tales of how it would bend or break as soon as we hit a bump, but it has been rock solid and not a bit of trouble. We had an EN16 billet handy just in case mind! :eek:

DBTrailer83.jpg


The grade of stainless also makes a difference, 314 or 315 are the main grades, their main differences are the resistance to corrosion, tensile strengths are similar.

Bolt Depot - Bolt Grade Markings and Strength Chart

Peter
 
As above, there are different grades of stainless - some with a much higher tensile strength than others. If it's strong enough to hold a winch onto a racing yacht, it'll be strong enough to hold many things on a landy!
Look for A2 stainless, I'm not saying it's a replacement for 8.8, but good enough for body fittings.
 
Maybe the kit I bought off eBay was pretty poor quality, as above in my younger days it was boat work with my old man instead of cars and all the hull fittings, in fact anything apart from the engine blocks, was stainless, even the outdrive stuff, so I think perhaps I just got treated to cheese bolts for this bolt kit

Nothing has fallen off though :p
 
Had a bit of a root around t'internet - looks like A2/80 stainless has similar tensile strength to 8.8. Should be fine almost everywhere except engine and gearbox fittings.
 

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