stjohnsmythe

Active Member
Well they are finally done and what a bloody nightmare.

A couple of weeks ago I went to change the rings and the screw was stuck, jammed solid. Even a stupidly long screwdriver wouldn't budge it. So I ended up chucking some Radweld in which stopped the drip/leak for only a week.

Today a screw extractor kit arrived in the post so drilled a pilot hole into the screw and extracted it with no problems using the kit. New rings in and new screw, ran the car up to temperature and no more drips! Fingers crossed that's fixed it!

So now I need to get the coolant changed to flush all the Radweld crap out the system. Yes, I know, short term fixes are a waste of time!

Quick question though, Although only a small amount of coolant was lost from the heater matrix, there didn't seem to be any air escaping from the expansion tank when running the car with the cap off (and squeezing/burping pipes). Will an airlock force itself out the overflow if I take the car for a run?
 
Blow the overflow pipe clear, there should be a constant flow out of it with the engine idling once the engine warms up and the stat opens.
 
Blow the overflow pipe clear, there should be a constant flow out of it with the engine idling once the engine warms up and the stat opens.

Thanks. I guess you mean that there will be a constant flow only whilst it expels any air lock?
 
No, there should be a constant flow once the engine is warm, no flow = pipe blocked or it's expelling air.

Ah sorry, I misunderstood. I thought you were saying that the overflow pipe would constantly be expelling coolant when warm! I'll check for air flow from the pipe tomorrow AM when I take it for a run :)
 
Ah sorry, I misunderstood. I thought you were saying that the overflow pipe would constantly be expelling coolant when warm! I'll check for air flow from the pipe tomorrow AM when I take it for a run :)

I DID say there should be a constant flow of coolant when the engine is warmed up unless it is expelling air. No air = constant flow of coolant from the pipe from the top of rad to expansion tank.
 
Took it for a good hour's drive today. Mixture of motorway, B roads and stop start traffic. No problems at all so job done :)
 
Well they are finally done and what a bloody nightmare.

A couple of weeks ago I went to change the rings and the screw was stuck, jammed solid. Even a stupidly long screwdriver wouldn't budge it. So I ended up chucking some Radweld in which stopped the drip/leak for only a week.

Today a screw extractor kit arrived in the post so drilled a pilot hole into the screw and extracted it with no problems using the kit. New rings in and new screw, ran the car up to temperature and no more drips! Fingers crossed that's fixed it!

So now I need to get the coolant changed to flush all the Radweld crap out the system. Yes, I know, short term fixes are a waste of time!

Quick question though, Although only a small amount of coolant was lost from the heater matrix, there didn't seem to be any air escaping from the expansion tank when running the car with the cap off (and squeezing/burping pipes). Will an airlock force itself out the overflow if I take the car for a run?

Did you take the dash out to do the o rings or did you do them through the drivers side foot well, how long did it take you to do them as mine need doing urgently, the carpet is soaked?
Regards
David
 
Did you take the dash out to do the o rings or did you do them through the drivers side foot well, how long did it take you to do them as mine need doing urgently, the carpet is soaked?
Regards
David

Didn't take the dash out and followed the instructions on rangerovers.net.

You might be lucky and the screw undos easily with a long screwdriver. I wasn't and to get access for a drill I cut out part of the inner plastic trim (which can't be seen once everything is back together).
 
A couple of hours to do the O rings if the screw comes out, several hours to re-build the bloody dash that someone (previous owners phone installer?) had butchered.
 
A couple of hours to do the O rings if the screw comes out, several hours to re-build the bloody dash that someone (previous owners phone installer?) had butchered.

Plus you'll end up with a collection of leftover screws and broken tabs due to how brittle all the plastic is :)
 

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