R

RLM

Member
In need of some expert help please...

I have a Freelander 2 (2010) that has a rubbing/ grinding noise comming from the front nearside (at least I think it is) only when turning right. The tyre has signs of slight cupping and wearing uneaven which I thought was the issue. I've since replaced the NS wheel bearing, wishbone assembly and steering ball joint including a new drive shaft for good measure. Swapped the tyres from the backs to the front and fitted two new back tyres and re-tracked the car, but I still get this issue which is driving me mad trying to work out what's causing the noise and why it's cutting the lifetime of my front NS tyre with cupping? The front shock absorbers show no signs of leaking and apear to function ok with no acessive bounce.

Is there anyone who can shed any light on what this problem might be and how to fix it?

Hoping that there is someone out there who knows the answer...

Regards
Roy
 
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Cupping can be 'just' the tyre. It can also be a bad shock absorber. Are they the right shocks and springs with all good bushes?
Tyres with the most tread so go to the rear, i believe, so you're ok there.
 
RLM said:
In need of some expert help please...

I have a Freelander 2 (2010) that has a rubbing/ grinding noise comming from the front nearside (at least I think it is) only when turning right. The tyre has signs of slight cupping and wearing uneaven which I thought was the issue. I've since replaced the NS wheel bearing, wishbone assembly and steering ball joint including a new drive shaft for good measure. Swapped the tyres from the backs to the front and fitted two new back tyres and re-tracked the car, but I still get this issue which is driving me mad trying to work out what's causing the noise and why it's cutting the lifetime of my front NS tyre with cupping? The front shock absorbers show no signs of leaking and apear to function ok with no acessive bounce.

Is there anyone who can shed any light on what this problem might be and how to fix it?

Hoping that there is someone out there who knows the answer...

Regards
Roy
Click to expand...

Id have a look at the CV joint
 
kermit_rr said:
Cupping can be 'just' the tyre. It can also be a bad shock absorber. Are they the right shocks and springs with all good bushes?
Tyres with the most tread so go to the rear, i believe, so you're ok there.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the reply, The shock absorber is the original on the car (has done around 113K) Even with tyres changed, new wheel bearing, wishbone and drive shaft replaced, it still makes this noise "rubbing" when turning right. I guess the next option is to change both shocks and see if it cures it, but don't understand how a shock absorber can produce a cyclic noise on a tyre when going round a roundabout? I can understand a bad shock can damage a tyre and cause it to cupp after time juddering on the road.
 
I was replying as 2 separate issues.
Who replaced the bearings, are you sure it was done properly?
 
RLM said:
What CV joint? I've replaced the NS drive shaft assembly? Are you refering to the prop shaft ?
Click to expand...

If you’ve changed the CV joint on that side and you’re confident it’s still in good order then it’s probably fine. In my experience new noise only on turning (especially if it’s on full lock) is the CV joint.
 
Hi Paydg,
I've run out of ideas on this as no physical signs of rubbing, just the cyclic rubbing noise when turning right. Brakes re-checked and nothing binding, re greased calper slides, checked piston, nothing seized. Had the Mrs drive the car (bit scary) as I sat in the back, and still sounds like the rubbing noise is comming from rhe front LHS. Getting to the stage I need to get the car into a garage as I've changed all I can think that can cause this issue.
 
You checked the caliper slide pins, did you check the brake pads to see if they move.
Our Fiesta had the same thing when turning the wheel.
I checked the caliper and all looked good, but the pads were seized in their carriers.
I had to hammer them out, file the rust off and used copper slip this time. No issues since. These were brand new, genuine ford calipers that I fitted 18 months ago, but I used the grease that came with them instead of the usual copper slip.
Just a thought.
 
^^^
+1

The best way to have good operating brakes is to do it yourself,
the times that I've had had to renew discs n pads prematurely because the carriers weren't filed (de-rusted in pad contact area) are too numerous to mention, (other peoples cars),

garages have no incentive to do this, in fact I believe they they'd rather shave a new set of pad lugs down on the bench grinder than bother with the filing faff... and those are the monkeys with at least a modicum of nous, others simply hammer the pads in if they're tight. Idiots.

Also good practice to gently file/de-rust bolt hole mating faces.

Seen a few calliper anti-rattle springs fitted incorrectly anol.

Nuvver thing that is often neglected is disc to hub face, this need's to be ultra clean, and lightly greased with copperslip.

Most importantly though, if you don't have a 8x1/4" square roughing file with a missing handle and a stabby tang then get one!
 
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I have two ways of dealing with unknown noises, a) turn the radio up to drown out the noise, and b) wait until summat breaks, the source of the noise then becomes apparent.

Col
 
RLM said:
Brakes re-checked and nothing binding, re greased calper slides, checked piston, nothing seized.
Click to expand...

Have you checked the splash guard? It's not uncommon for at least 1 morning to rust through, allowing that part of the guard to rub on the inside of the brake rotor.
 
Nodge68 said:
Have you checked the splash guard? It's not uncommon for at least 1 morning to rust through, allowing that part of the guard to rub on the inside of the brake rotor.
Click to expand...
I've always got a ready supply of repair washers...

handy also for drooping heatshields.
 
Thanks all for the suggestions... Turning the radio up works, sadly not a cure!
The break pads is not the issue, I've stripped down (twice) cleaned, copper greased slide pins / pad guids and there's no sign of binding to cause this rubbing noise when turning right on road bend (not hard right) Wheel arches plastic has not dropped or rubbing on tyres anywhere... anti roll bar bushes checked, drop links replaced along with new knuckle and wheel bearing, Drive shaft. New wishbone (ball joint) replaced and steering ball joints too.
The original tyre did show slight cupping on this side which I thought may have been the original issue to this cyclic rubbing noise I get, so bought two new tyres for the back and transfered the old back tyres to the front not to damage the haldex (Both in very good condition) but still get the same noise. So kinda doubt it's a tyre issue that's causing this. As a mechanical electronic engineer, this has stumped me and so frustrating as I can't see ANYTHING to blame on the car... just can't fathom what can actually make a cyclic scuffing, drowning noise only when turning right on bends comming from the nearside front wheel?????? Only thing left is the shock absorber, but no signs of leaking or excessive bounce on either front or back wheels...More money to fork out and change both fronts just to prove a fact :(
 
RLM said:
The break pads is not the issue, I've stripped down (twice) cleaned, copper greased slide pins / pad guids and there's no sign of binding to cause this rubbing noise when turning right on road bend
Click to expand...

Have you checked the splash guards are secure? It's very common for them to rust and rub on the rotors.

Also you should use the correct brake slide grease for lubrication of the guide pins, not copper grease.
Copper grease has a habit of hardening up, once the volatiles have dried up, which is the opposite of what you want there.
There are specific greases for brake slide pins, which don't dry up, remain water resistant for the life of the pads, and don't damage the rubber dust covers.
 
Hi Nodge68
No its not the splash guards rubbing, I wish it was that simple.
* correction, the brake pads had some copper grease and the slide pins I've used high silicon vacume grease* Before it was the original grease supplied with the pins.
Its not a light metalic noise I'm getting, more of a cyclic rubbing, low frequency grumbling noise...difficult to explain over the internet. I'll upload a video which may help someone to diagnose this issue clearer.
My last option is to replace the shock absorbers (more to fork out for a good spring compressor than trust basic Laser side clamps which can ping off) After that it's off to a specialist on steering at great expense :(

Many thanks
Roy
 
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RLM said:
No its not the splash guards rubbing, I wish it was that simple.
* correction, the brake pads had some copper grease and the slide pins I've used high silicon vacume grease* Before it was the original grease supplied with the pins.
Its not a light metalic noise I'm getting, more of a cyclic rubbing,
Click to expand...

Ok, worth asking.

Good, silicon grease should be fine. ;)

The FL2 has some week points.
These are basically the whole driveline.
The Haldex, rear diff and PTU all suffer from premature failure, as they're not maintained often enough.
Maybe your noise is the PTU, when they fail, the noise is almost impossible to trace.

It doesn't sound like the shocks to me, and the fronts are generally good for 150k miles plus without issues.

PTU failure can also cause excessive tyre scrubbing, as the vehicle is just FWD.
 
Had the rear diff changed not long ago and Haldex serviced.. Not much I've not changed on this lol
 
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