U

Uttamt

Member
Hi There,
I have always found the solution to my Hyppos problems here & am sure will get the same this time. Whilst driving last week, my FL TD4 54 plated started throwing a lot of black smoke & then started to loose power/ speed. Somehow managed to get to a friends place & called AA. They sent me a specialist LR patrol who said that it looks like my cyclone breather/ filter may be blocked. They got it to towed to my garage. They noticed a lot of diesel around the injector/ engine area.
The basic diagnostic they have shows these faults:
1. P0190: Fuel Rail pressure sensor.
2. P1e30: Boost System performance, short circuit to V Batt, Positive Controller deviation.

Would changing the Fuel Pressure sensor/regulator resolve the issue? I have been told that despite it's failure, leaking of diesel shouldn't happen.
There was a bit of smoking issue going on for a while.
Please suggest.
 
Give it a good service, changed PCV filter, air & oil filters, clean out the manifold, and EGR, at the same time have leak back test done, check all injector T joints for security they go brittle and can crack etc, with regards fuel rail pressure sensor unplug it clean with switch cleaner plug & unplug it a few times, see if the code goes away, you will most likely need to change the wiring though, it is a known fault, boost system could be the MAP sensor ? or the sensor in the intercooler hose at the front, which brings me to checking the intercooler hoses for tiny splits etc, last but not least check the MAF sensor unplug it and see if you can get above 30mph if so then that is failing or failed and will need changing, so a lot of it is checking.
 
The leaking injector will be a simple sealing washer.
The rail sensor is most likely to be the harness, for which an overlay harness replacement exists.
The boost issue could well be down to a split boost pipe.
 
...and change the O Ring on the High Pressure Fuel Pump Pressure Regulator.... its bound to be affecting some of these issues!
 
And for gods sake listen and do........... it will save you hundreds. Get your hands dirty and learn how these classics work ;)
 
Thanks Everyone. Got the fuel rail pressure changed and got the speed back (not smooth but achieves over 70 mph) but the smoke issue isn't going back. At least for now there is no leak I can see. Engine amber light was cleared but back again. Wondering what is causing the smoke & other issues? Please advice.
 
Uttamt said:
Thanks Everyone. Got the fuel rail pressure changed and got the speed back (not smooth but achieves over 70 mph) but the smoke issue isn't going back. At least for now there is no leak I can see. Engine amber light was cleared but back again. Wondering what is causing the smoke & other issues? Please advice.
Click to expand...
There are many faults that can cause the amber light to show. A leaking boost pipe is the most likely. So you need to check the boost pipes for splits. The low pressure fuel pump is another common issue. You need to get the codes and look at the live data, to determine exactly what is wrong.
 
Nodge68 said:
There are many faults that can cause the amber light to show. A leaking boost pipe is the most likely. So you need to check the boost pipes for splits. The low pressure fuel pump is another common issue. You need to get the codes and look at the live data, to determine exactly what is wrong.
Click to expand...
Would any of your mentioned issues will result in smoke issues too?
 
Uttamt said:
Thanks. Will check that but do you know exactly what is that called? Boost pipe only? Do I need to check my MAF sensor too?
Click to expand...

They are know as boost pipes. There are up to 5, depending on the year of the FL1. The rear one (behind engine) isn't generally available and is a bugger to fit. The other 3 or 4 (year depending) are easy enough to change and cheap to buy.
 
Nodge68 said:
They are know as boost pipes. There are up to 5, depending on the year of the FL1. The rear one (behind engine) isn't generally available and is a bugger to fit. The other 3 or 4 (year depending) are easy enough to change and cheap to buy.
Click to expand...
Thanks, but none of them seems to be split. Wondering what else can be the cause.
 
EGR valve sticking open will do the same as a split boost pipe. But check all the pipes carefully as splits can be very hard to spot.
 
P1E30 fault code...

recent youtube video, cause was Intercooler top hose split by rubbing screwhead

Snap1.jpg
 
Nodge68 said:
A very common place to fail. Or the elbow pipe to the EGR is another one.
Click to expand...

Yep, I replaced my top intercooler hose not too long ago after finding a hole made by the screwhead underneath. I replaced the set of hoses with silicone ones from DPH Sport as they happened to have purple set on sale cheaper than other colours at the time.

Well worth checking all the hoses for holes or splits, and checking jubilee clips, clamps,spring clips for tightness, and also checking rubber is not perished around or below clamps. Same applies to 4mm id vacuum hoses, well worth checking that none of them have worn/burnt thru and no ends loose.
 
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