Hi the window does nothing when i pull the handle , the door unlocks and i can open the tailgate but the glass catches at the top but when open i can press the glass down by hand about an inch but when i close the door the glass rises to the top so it is working one way only thanks for replying
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
OK so something wrong with the window cable and regulator mechanism.
Check cable is run correctly and is tight on the motor drum.
Check cable is run correctly and is tight on the motor drum.
Hi the window moves a little bit (blink and you would miss it) i disconnected the battery when reconnected window went down turned the key in the lock window goes up and stays there , do you think it could be the cable adjustment i fitted new cables but not saying they are tensioned properly thanks
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Best check this.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
It does have to be tight, there is a tension spring to prevent shock to the motor but it is possible that you have missed off one turn of cable making it slack.
If it doesn't make your fingers bleed then it isn't tight enough !!! Good luck
If it doesn't make your fingers bleed then it isn't tight enough !!! Good luck
Hi my cables are all over the place so i am going to purchase a complete mechanism .
The only problem i have is the motor its self i have removed it and put it on a battery it runs both ways but i is not stopping i thought there were sensors in there to stop it going on forever if it does not stop it will either rip the cable apart or burn its self out is it controled by the CCU or another sensor somewer
The only problem i have is the motor its self i have removed it and put it on a battery it runs both ways but i is not stopping i thought there were sensors in there to stop it going on forever if it does not stop it will either rip the cable apart or burn its self out is it controled by the CCU or another sensor somewer
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
As far as I know that is correct. The ccu sends a signal to drop window and also sets window to the bottom then takes its reference from there. If you plug in motor to door, dis battery, reconnect and then simulate shutting and opening door you should get the right amount of motor turns.
Alteredtech
Well-Known Member
So door handle operate correctly, the booth door use an electrical lock, there is no manual unlock ...
The windows regulator was not replaced but you tried to fix it,
change the whole window regulator to fix, don't try to repair it again, even the if the motor is still working.
CVH101150 | Regulator - Electric Window - Rear End Door | Freelander 1 From 2000 - Land Rover Part CVH101150 (lrdirect.com)
I have ordered a new mechanism and the motor is working fine since replacing the CCU everything works now apart from the central locking off the remote i will get that programed after the MOT it locks all the doors with the key in the drives door so not a problem for me.
I know the rear door is electric that is all working how it should and the new cables i fitted worked what happened was the white plastic ratchet on the cable was not holding a common fault so i am told so allowing the cable to lose tension and come of the spool in the motor and chewed them up if i had noticed that i could have drilled a hole to lock it of and stop it moving inwards and then the window would have dropped enough to miss the trim i removed it and i cocked it up to be honest i should have looked closer thank you for your assistance .
I know the rear door is electric that is all working how it should and the new cables i fitted worked what happened was the white plastic ratchet on the cable was not holding a common fault so i am told so allowing the cable to lose tension and come of the spool in the motor and chewed them up if i had noticed that i could have drilled a hole to lock it of and stop it moving inwards and then the window would have dropped enough to miss the trim i removed it and i cocked it up to be honest i should have looked closer thank you for your assistance .
Hi guys late reply trying to sort out other problems with the hippo.
But all windows and locks working now locks only working / no remote locking but put the key drivers door and it locks and unlocks it needs remote needs to programed to the new CCU but i can live that at the moment .
Trying to sort out the 2000 to 2.500 rpm blue smoke new crankcase breather (modified one ) turbo vent filter new seals in high pressure pump sender the manifold is off for cleaning new low pressure pump just waiting on the filter cant have the injectors checked yet as the people are on holiday till nov and MOT friday.
EGR blanked or un blanked made no difference either way but the egr is working i can can connect a vacuum pump and it moves in and out
Anyways thanks to you all again
But all windows and locks working now locks only working / no remote locking but put the key drivers door and it locks and unlocks it needs remote needs to programed to the new CCU but i can live that at the moment .
Trying to sort out the 2000 to 2.500 rpm blue smoke new crankcase breather (modified one ) turbo vent filter new seals in high pressure pump sender the manifold is off for cleaning new low pressure pump just waiting on the filter cant have the injectors checked yet as the people are on holiday till nov and MOT friday.
EGR blanked or un blanked made no difference either way but the egr is working i can can connect a vacuum pump and it moves in and out
Anyways thanks to you all again
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Try disconnecting the breather connection to the turbo intake hose, but plug up the turbo hose with something secure.
I believe the breather is responsible for the blue some, which is actually made worse by the cyclonic crankcase breather.
Sorry not sure what you mean plug up the turbo intake hose as to which one you are on about the rubber one from the EGR or the intercooler hose sorry i a bit thick
But regarding the the breather do you think the cyclonic crankcase breather could be the problem and should i go back to the round filter or leave them out and see if the problem lies there will it run without the filters and not do any damage thank you
But regarding the the breather do you think the cyclonic crankcase breather could be the problem and should i go back to the round filter or leave them out and see if the problem lies there will it run without the filters and not do any damage thank you
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It's down the back of the engine, below the MAF sensor. The turbo intake elbow hose has a connection for the engine breather, which is the source of the oil in the intake system.
If you disconnect the breather to turbo intake pipe, then oil from the breather can't contaminate the fresh air, which is a possible cause of the smoke and misfire.
You do have to prevent air from outside getting into the turbo intake pipe though, or it'll upset the MAF readings.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I don't like the cyclonic breather myself, I much prefer the fluffy one as it definitely prevents more oil entering the engine, at least when it's changed regularly.
Hi can the pipe be left of and will it affect the engine in the long run and i assume i have to block both holes were the pipe attaches . I must admit to have fitted catch cans to other vehicles in the past and run breathers to atmosphere but it does not seem possible on these engines.
It may be a coincidence but the smoke only seemed to start after fitting the modified breather
It may be a coincidence but the smoke only seemed to start after fitting the modified breather
Hi took it out today mrs following smoke at first 2000 / 2500 rpm but after about a mile no smoke at all from stopped at traffic lights ECT then through as many rev ranges as possible high gear low speed and up to 70mph no smoke at all.
So hopeing beyond hope its just full of crap due to standing but i am still getting the injectors checked cheers for all your assistance on this.
I do have another query i should open another thread i suppose i suspect i either have a whine on rear diff or rear wheel bearing how can i check will i have to jack up all 4 wheels clear of the ground being that its is 4x4 awd
So hopeing beyond hope its just full of crap due to standing but i am still getting the injectors checked cheers for all your assistance on this.
I do have another query i should open another thread i suppose i suspect i either have a whine on rear diff or rear wheel bearing how can i check will i have to jack up all 4 wheels clear of the ground being that its is 4x4 awd
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Have a read of this, save retyping it all!!
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rear-diff.382496/
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rear-diff.382496/
