The battery is nearly new no drain over night fog light does not work with the engine running or not bulbs are thanks again for replying ok
 
The electrics are very simple, you can found all electric shems on the web for the freelander 1.

If the vehicule was setting for 6 months, there is certainly a reason. Except the electric issues, No other issues ?

I think booth door lock has to be changed … once it works, wipper, and window will work.

For the fog lights all are not working, front and rear ?
 
The car was parked up then the mot ran out and as it was a work vehicle he had no use for it so never bothered with it.
Apart from the electric issues there is nothing wrong with it runs and drives perfect
It only has rear fog lights and they are not working as i have said there is no power to the rear of the car only tail lights are working nothing else thaks agai
 
Had you changed change the light bulb, fuse for the rear fog lights ?

For the door lock, follow the see if there is any cut.

Are all the fuse tested ?
 
All fuses ok removed fuse box today and all fuses removed and checked none blown checked body control module could no see any corrosion or damage
No damage to wires i have checked all the switches now from the dash and all working how they should but still no live 12v feed to anywhere to do with the tailgate
No 12v to rear of car but fuses 31 / 15 have a 12v supply from somewhere cheers
 
As you suggested in the first place it could the CCU. Capacitors are the more common issue on ageing electronics, so it can be repaired…
 
That is my next port of call but i believe the CCU has to be re programed
Or i might consider hard wiring each individual component
 
According to the electric shems there is 4 relays in the CCU, with one for the rear tailgate.

So each feature can be tested and renewed, you need pay someone that used to repair this sort of stuff to do the job.

If reprogramming is an eprom swap between a failed one and a working, yes it could work.
 
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Thanks i have ordered another CCU its worth a try i am led to believe you lose the central locking not sure what else that is why it has to be programed but not to sure about that cheers
 
If it is correct one for 3 or 5 door. The removable roof makes the 2 types different, then only the fobs need reprogramming to match the ccu.
 
Reprogramming is needed to set features, like volumetric alarm, number of doors 3 or 5 to detected a not a closed door, mph or km/h, auto or manual, abs … I think something to do with the dashboard …
 
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I will see how i get on when the CCU arrives. Now all of a sudden since removing the drivers door lock waiting for a replacement my interior lights come one when i unlock the doors and go out on there own they do not come on when any of the doors are opened but they are not staying on now .
I must say it seems to be a very common fault with locks and window regulators on these cars drivers doors locks are like rocking horse muck
 
I must say it seems to be a very common fault with locks and window regulators on these cars

Nearly all cars suffer with failures of locks and window regulators, even German cars.
Fun fact, the Freelander 1 locks and window regulators are basically the same design as BMW components, which was the parent company when the FL1 was being developed. ;)
 
Tell me about it i have lost count how many cars i have over the last 55 years and most of them had lock or window fails even the mechanical ones seized or gears stripped a friend of mine has a 1975 MGB and it has a body control module that has failed and giving it interior light problems so what chance have we got the main problem is they were built at longbridge or lode lane in uk not the best add lol
 
Tell me about it i have lost count how many cars i have over the last 55 years and most of them had lock or window fails even the mechanical ones seized or gears stripped a friend of mine has a 1975 MGB and it has a body control module that has failed and giving it interior light problems so what chance have we got the main problem is they were built at longbridge or lode lane in uk not the best add lol

New diesel cars have ad-blue tanks that need to be changed often, not to mention the cutch that don't last that long ...
So locking issue, is not a big issue ...
 
No its not i can forget about the locking issue if every thing else works i could even fit an after market locking system and finish off the rest for the mot the rear fog light and rear wipe / wash has got to work or i remove the wipe / wash maybe tidy up or replace the fuel tank carrier we will see
 
Hi guys just fitted a CCU and another fuse board now and a drivers door lock
Now i have rear tailgate working glass drops but just not far enough / but drops on the switch on the dash / central locking of works of the key in the drivers door and the switch on the dash but the lock on my drivers door or the other doors does not work of the remote to which i expected.
I also have the fog lights and rear wash wipe fully working .
But i have one problem with the engine running or ignition on my N/S head light is staying on the rest of the problems i can hopefully sort out just this head light thanks again
 
Nearly all sorted now but the tailgate window does not drop to allow the door to open if i use the dash button i can lower the window and when i close the tailgate the window will go up but why wont it drop that little bit to allow the door to open .
But i have noticed when i have opened the door i can push the window down about an inch like i am taking up some free play thanks for all your help
 
Does the tailgate window operate for a short time when you pull the rear door handle? If so it may well be slack in your cables.

If not try disconnecting battery, reconnect battery and window will drop. Raising the window fully on the switch calibrates the window position.
 

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