Hi guys, my 2002 td5 has had some issues since purchasing. I think the oil cooler orings failed (repaired) which led to water pump failure (repaired) and PAS pump failure (repaired) but because it probably overheated the head maybe warped. I have had it skimmed and refitted by an independent garage but it now has a noise similar to a noisy tappet and is hugely down on power. It had more with a warped head. I am hoping it is only that the injectors need coding, can anyone confirm this needs to be done after removal? Also is there anyone in the north east with Hawkeye or Nanocom that can carry this out? Thank you in advance for your help
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
injectors need coding if they are moved from their original cylinder,not if they go back in the same,were injector adjuster reset?
thank you for your advice. The injectors have been checked that they are in the correct order, they have now had the preload adjusted but this made no difference. I have disconnected the MAF sensor and it drives exactly the same. The actuator is free and not binding at all. Since it had loads more power before the head was done is there anything else that could have been “disturbed” that could cause a serious lack of power?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
timing
raywin
Well-Known Member
When you mention the pre load do you mean the backlash on the rocker arms which drive the injectors?
It can make a difference if not set up correctly, I saw that some people open it up a bit, so I tried but it was not good and the engine rattled on the top end, so I put it back to the correct setting, and it was much better.
I just thought I’d ask opinions in case I’m wrong but I think this worryingly confirms it is out of time
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
dont worry about the marked links you need to fit both pins crank first then cam
I don’t have a helper to turn the engine while I try and align the crank locking tool unfortunately and I’m only trying to confirm if the timing is indeed out at this stage.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
you need to install the crank pin to confirm the timing
Crank pin installed tonight. No sign of the key way on the camshaft it looks to be about 180 degrees out. That’s it for me. It’s confirmed my worst fears. I’m not going any further. It’s going to a specialist for repair and then I’ll take up the costs with the garage that did the cylinder head gasket repair
yu might need to give the chance to repair it first, and get an independent Engineers report, first.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
turn crank round once then refit crank pin
Loads a peeps in Essex 
Since I didn’t have someone to wind over the engine by hand technology came to my assistance and I managed to use my phone camera to line up the crank pin. Instantly found the cam to be a tooth out . I’ve adjusted it and it now runs unbelievably differently. I would recommend timing a TD5 using the locking pins rather than links etc. The pins are a tight fit so the timing is absolutely spot on.
make sure you turn it over 3 or 4 times afterwards to allow stuff to settle,, before covering it all up.
Absolutely. I had marked the bottom pulley so I could line it up again a little bit more easily if I had to. Wound it over by hand 5 full revolutions to ensure the tensioner settled and there was no undue resistance. I do wonder if the top pulley could slip and make an otherwise healthy disco or defender really sluggish.
