C

Christo102

Member
Hallo everyone
I bought a 2003 freelander 1 td4 and it had reverse and went forward but didnt have power or changed gears

Did diagnostic and 8 or the 9 solenoids gave fault codes

Changed all the solenoids and no it doesn't go into park at all or into any gear seems like the car stays in neutral doesn't matter what gear you put it in

It still only starts when you put it in neutral


Any help would be appreciated
 
From yer intro fred you confirmed the LED by the gear lever and the dash display both report the correct location of the lever. But it won't physically move to Park.

Try marking the metal rod that connects to the bottom of the auto gearbox so you know the rods previous position. Then undo the nut and move the little lever under the gearbox to see if it will physically move to Park. Count how many clicks/positions are available across full length if travel.

8 of 9 solenoids reporting fault codes is very unusual. I would expect that to caused by a common fault like the barrel connectors not secured together correctly.
 
Pin 7 - 8 = Fluid temperature sensor
Pin 9 - 18 = Shift solenoid valve A

The temp sensor value will depend on the temp of the auto. If you don't have an auto ranging meter then you will need to adjust to the correct range to find the resistance. That could be why it's open circuit, if the meter is a manual range type and it needs the range changed.

Shift solenoid A open circuit means you have lost control of gear selection. There's 3x solenoids. Loosing one will cause selection problems. It could be the wiring harness so give that an inspection. Broken wire etc. Could be the solenoid itself. Or the bolt screwing the cable to the solenoid lose inside.
 
I have che ked the solenoids as well
I habe read that they say it could be the selector inhibitor switch on the top of the auto box

Is there a way to adjust it wothout the special tool?

Can this be the problem?

How many clicks from the box must it have and from which side must i start
 
The gear lever will move through PRND421 so you should feel all 7 positions and a click between each. So from one end to the other you should be able to feel 6 clicks.

How it all works:
You move the gear lever and the sensors around it detects the desired position. This information goes to the gearbox computer and the current lever position selected put on the dash display. When moving the gear lever you also move the cable and rod that attached to the bottom of the auto gearbox. The little lever under the gearbox is moved by the gear lever movement. It is possible there is something in the way or its bent, stopping full travel? Could be something inside the auto stopping movement. As said before... marking the rod and disconnecting it will allow you to move the little lever yerself then put the rod connection back.

The gearbox has a vertical rod through it connected to the little lever at the bottom of the gearbox. There's a gear selection switch on top of the auto. When moving the gear lever yer also moving the selector switch on top.

The switch on top is wired directly to the LED's next to the gear lever. As the gear lever and switch move, the correct LED will illuminate by the gear lever. When the gear lever is in N or P, their is a set of inhibitor switch contacts that will go short circuit as well, allowing the engine to be started. The inhibitor switch contacts are part of the switch on top of the auto.

If the LED's by the gear lever illuminate correctly one at a time as yer more the gear lever, then that's good and they're ok. Yer can do a resistance check on them via the second barrel connector. You will measure a short circuit only on the pins used for the current gear selected by the lever. Move the lever and see the short circuit move to another position. You will also see a short circuit on the inhibitor pins inside the same connector. Only when the gear lever is in N and P.

The vertical rod through the gearbox also connects to the park mechanism inside the gearbox. If you can't move the gear lever forwards into the P position then the first thing to do is check to see if something is physically stopping it from moving to P.

Could you move the gear lever into P before you took the solenoid cover off and changed all the solenoids?

You can fit the switch on top of the auto without the special tool. Its possible the switch could be stopping travel to P. It's a rare fault. Mark the position of the switch before taking it off.
 
Hippo said:
The gear lever will move through PRND421 so you should feel all 7 positions and a click between each. So from one end to the other you should be able to feel 6 clicks.

How it all works:
You move the gear lever and the sensors around it detects the desired position. This information goes to the gearbox computer and the current lever position selected put on the dash display. When moving the gear lever you also move the cable and rod that attached to the bottom of the auto gearbox. The little lever under the gearbox is moved by the gear lever movement. It is possible there is something in the way or its bent, stopping full travel? Could be something inside the auto stopping movement. As said before... marking the rod and disconnecting it will allow you to move the little lever yerself then put the rod connection back.

The gearbox has a vertical rod through it connected to the little lever at the bottom of the gearbox. There's a gear selection switch on top of the auto. When moving the gear lever yer also moving the selector switch on top.

The switch on top is wired directly to the LED's next to the gear lever. As the gear lever and switch move, the correct LED will illuminate by the gear lever. When the gear lever is in N or P, their is a set of inhibitor switch contacts that will go short circuit as well, allowing the engine to be started. The inhibitor switch contacts are part of the switch on top of the auto.

If the LED's by the gear lever illuminate correctly one at a time as yer more the gear lever, then that's good and they're ok. Yer can do a resistance check on them via the second barrel connector. You will measure a short circuit only on the pins used for the current gear selected by the lever. Move the lever and see the short circuit move to another position. You will also see a short circuit on the inhibitor pins inside the same connector. Only when the gear lever is in N and P.

The vertical rod through the gearbox also connects to the park mechanism inside the gearbox. If you can't move the gear lever forwards into the P position then the first thing to do is check to see if something is physically stopping it from moving to P.

Could you move the gear lever into P before you took the solenoid cover off and changed all the solenoids?

You can fit the switch on top of the auto without the special tool. Its possible the switch could be stopping travel to P. It's a rare fault. Mark the position of the switch before taking it off.
Click to expand...
Hi yes it would go to all the positions before i changed the solenoids i took the inhibitor switch off and put it back I'm taking the solenoid cover off today and will see if there is anything obstructing it
 
Christo102 said:
Hi yes it would go to all the positions before i changed the solenoids i took the inhibitor switch off and put it back I'm taking the solenoid cover off today and will see if there is anything obstructing it
Click to expand...
When the solenoid cover if off check the wire to solenoid A is secure. Also check the connector in the top left of the solenoid area is connected ok. Also check the resistances again to see if solenoid A is still open circuit.
 
Hi
I have gears now it seems fine but reverse is not working it moves back then stops and then goes forward
Won't reverse at all
 
Christo102 said:
I checked the solenoids there was a broken wire
Checked the inhibitor switch and gear selector and filled oil
All of the gears are forward it seems
Click to expand...
Are the LED's by the gear lever and the dash display, still displaying the correct position of the gear lever in all positions? Especially R and P?

We talked about the bolt on the rear of the auto which some mistakenly undo when checking the auto oil level. It's NOT the level plug. It holds the revere brake band in place. Did you undo that by mistake?

Did you check the auto oil level using the level plug on the bottom face of the gearbox underneath, at the correct temperature WITH the engine running on tick over? Did you move the gear lever through all positions PRND421 then 124DNRP once, with the engine on tick over before checking the auto oil level?

Is the temperature sensor still reading open circuit like before?

Can you make sure the barrel connectors are not sliding apart like in the video below at 4 minutes 10 seconds?

resistance video = https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTmdkDuKZ6A
 
Hippo said:
Are the LED's by the gear lever and the dash display, still displaying the correct position of the gear lever in all positions? Especially R and P?

We talked about the bolt on the rear of the auto which some mistakenly undo when checking the auto oil level. It's NOT the level plug. It holds the revere brake band in place. Did you undo that by mistake?

Did you check the auto oil level using the level plug on the bottom face of the gearbox underneath, at the correct temperature WITH the engine running on tick over? Did you move the gear lever through all positions PRND421 then 124DNRP once, with the engine on tick over before checking the auto oil level?

Is the temperature sensor still reading open circuit like before?

Can you make sure the barrel connectors are not sliding apart like in the video below at 4 minutes 10 seconds?

resistance video = https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTmdkDuKZ6A
Click to expand...
All the selector and lcd is rigt except not going to 1 at all now
Barrel connectors looks fine
Used the level plug next to the selector as in the rave manual

What do you mean on tick over i started the car and put it in neutral
 
Christo102 said:
All the selector and lcd is rigt except not going to 1 at all now
Barrel connectors looks fine
Used the level plug next to the selector as in the rave manual

What do you mean on tick over i started the car and put it in neutral
Click to expand...
Tick over is when you switch on the engine and just leave it running. It will sit at something like 750 revs on the dash. We call that tick over.

If the car was in neutral and sat on tick over, then that is ok. You should start the engine from cold, then allow it to warm up. When the auto gearbox oil measure between 35 to 45 degrees, move the gear lever through all options PRND421 then 124DNRP to allow the auto oil to circulate through all the solenoids and pipe network inside. Put it in each option and leave there for 2 seconds, then move to the next option. Then undo the auto oil level check bolt. Tip some new oil in the top of the auto and watch for a oil running out the level check hole. When it's a situation where what you tip in, runs straight out, then the level is ok. Put the level plug back. The engine MUST be running on tick over when checking the auto oil level on a Freelander 1 Jatco auto, which is the gearbox you have.

When checking the auto oil level your Freelander 1 must be on a level surface.

Checking the auto oil level while in neutral on tick over is ok. just make sure it doesn't roll over you as it's not in park.

The gearbox lever has the following options - PRND421

Previously you couldn't select P. The problem has changed that you can't select 1. You have an issue where you can't select the position at the end of full lever travel. Previously one end of full travel. Now that is fixed it's the other end of full travel.
 
Hippo said:
Tick over is when you switch on the engine and just leave it running. It will sit at something like 750 revs on the dash. We call that tick over.

If the car was in neutral and sat on tick over, then that is ok. You should start the engine from cold, then allow it to warm up. When the auto gearbox oil measure between 35 to 45 degrees, move the gear lever through all options PRND421 then 124DNRP to allow the auto oil to circulate through all the solenoids and pipe network inside. Put it in each option and leave there for 2 seconds, then move to the next option. Then undo the auto oil level check bolt. Tip some new oil in the top of the auto and watch for a oil running out the level check hole. When it's a situation where what you tip in, runs straight out, then the level is ok. Put the level plug back. The engine MUST be running on tick over when checking the auto oil level on a Freelander 1 Jatco auto, which is the gearbox you have.

When checking the auto oil level your Freelander 1 must be on a level surface.

Checking the auto oil level while in neutral on tick over is ok. just make sure it doesn't roll over you as it's not in park.

The gearbox lever has the following options - PRND421

Previously you couldn't select P. The problem has changed that you can't select 1. You have an issue where you can't select the position at the end of full lever travel. Previously one end of full travel. Now that is fixed it's the other end of full travel.
Click to expand...
Yes but all the gear are now moving forward except p
So there is no neutral at the moment too
 
If you have all gears, but no reverse, then that would suggest you have removed the reverse brake band bolt.

How did you drain the transmission?
 
Freelander 1 auto drain plug and level check plug locations:

MNkPShY.jpg
 
Christo102 said:
Yes all the gears from R to 2 is all forward
Click to expand...
I still think you have multiple problems to fix.

The first is the problem of the gear lever not being able to move to all 7 positions 124DNRP. If you can manually turn the selection lever on the bottom of the auto and feel it click into all positions, with the selector rod disconnected, then the fault must be at the gear lever end by the drivers seat. You will need to remove the plastic around the heater controls. Also loosen the screws and plastic behind that, in order to release the plastic covering the transmission tunnel. The tunnel has two screws, one either side securing it. You will also need to remove the cubby box to get the transmission tunnel plastic off. the gear lever knob pulls up vertically. Difficult to do but it will come off. This was how I would take mine apart. Might be slightly different on newer Freelander 1's with the revised interior. It's been some years since I had to do it. The lever mechanism is below:

tnVDbUP.jpg


uPHZNSp.jpg



The second problem is it only driving forward. If the dash displays the correct gear lever position, and the LED's by the gear lever report the correct position, then you have an impossible fault to diagnose if the gear lever isn't moving correctly. Solve the first problem above of why the lever can only move 124DNR or 24DNRP, first. Then look into the second fault when the first fault is fixed.
 
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