Christo102 · Mar 29, 2020

Hi everyone
I bought a 2003 freelander td4 auto and showed f-4 on dash
Got fault codes on 8 of the 9 solenoids
Bought new solenoids put it in now and now there is no gears at all and wont go into park at all
And still show f4 if you change gears
On dash shows the changes
Did i do anything wrong any help would be much appreciated

Thank you
Regards
Christo

Shimsteriom · Mar 29, 2020

Welcome

Christo102 · Mar 29, 2020

Shimsteriom said:
Welcome

Thank you

brianp38dse · Mar 29, 2020

Hello and welcome

Christo102 · Mar 29, 2020

brianp38dse said:
Hello and welcome

Thank you very much
Hope someone has some info on this

Hippo · Mar 29, 2020

Welcome to the forum

Did you do the resistance test to check the wiring harness and solenoids before changing the solenoids?

Have you tried doing the resistance test after the solenoid change?

Christo102 · Mar 30, 2020

Hippo said:
Welcome to the forum

Did you do the resistance test to check the wiring harness and solenoids before changing the solenoids?

Have you tried doing the resistance test after the solenoid change?

Hi
I did diagnostic on it before i changed them
Fault codes where
P0753 - a shift solenoid short to ground or battery
P0758 - b shift solenoid short to ground or battery
P0763 - c shift solenoid short to ground or battery
P0748 - line pressure duty solenoid open circuit
P1748 - 2/4 brake solenoid open circuit, short circuit to ground or battery
P0702 - grand return short circuit to battery
P0743 - lock up duty solenoid short circuit to ground or battery
P1605 - eeprom error flag set

Christo102 · Mar 30, 2020

Hippo said:
Welcome to the forum

Did you do the resistance test to check the wiring harness and solenoids before changing the solenoids?

Have you tried doing the resistance test after the solenoid change?

So tested resistance on it
Here it goes
Pin 1- 2 =561

Pin 3-4 = 562
Pin 5 -6 = 562
Pin 7-8 = nothing
Pin 9-18 = nothing
Pin 10 - 18 = 16
Pin 11 - 18 = 17
Pin 12 - 18 = 17
Pin 13 - 18 = 17
Pin 14 - 18 = 17
Pin 15 - 18 = 3
Pin 16 - 18 = 3
Pin 17 to 18 = 14

Hippo · Mar 30, 2020

Are those resistances from the barrel connectors or the connector that plugs into the auto's computer in the black plastic L shaped box next to the battery under the bonnet?

Christo102 · Mar 30, 2020

Hippo said:
Are those resistances from the barrel connectors or the connector that plugs into the auto's computer in the black plastic L shaped box next to the battery under the bonnet?

From the barrel connector

Christo102 · Apr 1, 2020

Hippo said:
Are those resistances from the barrel connectors or the connector that plugs into the auto's computer in the black plastic L shaped box next to the battery under the bonnet?

It's as if it's stuck in neutral can roll the car doesn't matter what gear you choose

Hippo · Apr 2, 2020

Pin 7 - 8 = Fluid temperature sensor
Pin 9 - 18 = Shift solenoid valve A

The temp sensor value will depend on the temp of the auto. If you don't have an auto ranging meter then you will need to adjust to the correct range to find the resistance. that could be why it's open circuit.

Shift solenoid A open circuit means you have lost control of gear selection. There's 3x solenoids. Loosing one will cause selection problems. It could be the wiring harness so give that an inspection. Broken wire etc. Could be the solenoid itself. Or the bolt screwing the cable to the solenoid lose.

If you put it in Park can you still push it carefully/gently forward? You shouldn't be able to.

Christo102 · Apr 2, 2020

Hippo said:
Pin 7 - 8 = Fluid temperature sensor
Pin 9 - 18 = Shift solenoid valve A

The temp sensor value will depend on the temp of the auto. If you don't have an auto ranging meter then you will need to adjust to the correct range to find the resistance. that could be why it's open circuit.

Shift solenoid A open circuit means you have lost control of gear selection. There's 3x solenoids. Loosing one will cause selection problems. It could be the wiring harness so give that an inspection. Broken wire etc. Could be the solenoid itself. Or the bolt screwing the cable to the solenoid lose.

If you put it in Park can you still push it carefully/gently forward? You shouldn't be able to.

It doesn't go into park at all

Hippo · Apr 2, 2020

Christo102 said:
It doesn't go into park at all

Is that because the lever won't push forwards enough to get to P?
Or the lever moves to P and you can still push it because the thing inside the auto that locks into Park isn't doing so?

Christo102 · Apr 2, 2020

No only goes up to R and stops there but when it starts doesn't matter what gear you it's like neutral

Hippo · Apr 2, 2020

Does the gear selection on the dash match the LED gear lever position indicator by the lever, when you move the lever forwards and back?
When it's in D, and you push the lever to the right, does the dash report it's now in Sport mode? It should.
After the above, when in Sport auto, you should be able to push forwards and back to manually select first and second gear. Twice forward for 2. Does it do that all of that?
After the above, push left and it should go back to D. Does it?

The above is to check the lever operation and reporting.

It should only start the engine when it's in N or P. If it starts in any other option then 1, 2, 4 D or R, then there's something wrong with the lever section.

Christo102 · Apr 2, 2020

Hippo said:
Does the gear selection on the dash match the LED gear lever position indicator by the lever, when you move the lever forwards and back?
When it's in D, and you push the lever to the right, does the dash report it's now in Sport mode? It should.
After the above, when in Sport auto, you should be able to push forwards and back to manually select first and second gear. Twice forward for 2. Does it do that all of that?
After the above, push left and it should go back to D. Does it?

The above is to check the lever operation and reporting.

It should only start the engine when it's in N or P. If it starts in any other option then 1, 2, 4 D or R, then there's something wrong with the lever section.

Only starts in N and dash shows all the correct gears

Before the new solenoids it was flashing f 4 and reverse worked and it did goes forward but didn't have power

Hippo · Apr 2, 2020

The vast majority of time F4 flashing is caused by an electrical problem. The resistance check on the wiring harness is the starting point. You can also do the same test from the top end of the harness at the auto's computer connection to it. That checks the full length of the harness.

Have you checked the auto fluid level using the correct method? Engine running at the correct temperature and using the level plug on the bottom of the auto. Not the one on the rear that holds the reverse brake band in place and often mistaken for a level plug.

Christo102 · Apr 2, 2020

Hippo said:
The vast majority of time F4 flashing is caused by an electrical problem. The resistance check on the wiring harness is the starting point. You can also do the same test from the top end of the harness at the auto's computer connection to it. That checks the full length of the harness.

Have you checked the auto fluid level using the correct method? Engine running at the correct temperature and using the level plug on the bottom of the auto. Not the one on the rear that holds the reverse brake band in place and often mistaken for a level plug.

Yes checked it as well new fluid in clean fuid in
Can it maybe the selector and inhibitor switch be the problem?

RangeRoller dt · Apr 2, 2020

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