Gazbo said:
Have you checked if either of the drive shafts from transfer case outputs to front and rear diffs are turning with the engine running gear engaged and clutch engaged? The problem could be simply a broken axle or diff pinion shaft, with either of these occurring you will end up with no drive, try engaging centre diff lock, if one diff or the other is the problem the vehicle will drive on the other diff.
I have experienced the same problem you describe when the front diff pinion shaft snapped in my old Rangie classic, drove it home with the front driveshaft removed and centre diff lock engaged.
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Only if a drive shaft snaps at front and rear at same time would you get no drive on a P38. You can actually drive one with either the front or rear prop shaft removed and just one in place. Unless the VCU fails totally loose which is highly unlikely.
 
wammers said:
Only if a drive shaft snaps at front and rear at same time would you get no drive on a P38. You can actually drive one with either the front or rear prop shaft removed and just one in place. Unless the VCU fails totally loose which is highly unlikely.
Click to expand...
I was not sure of the drive train of the P38 diesel, no experience with them, as far as I know that variant never reaced our shores, and I have heard that the VCU fails in the "locked up" condition, sorry for any confusion there.
 
Gazbo said:
I was not sure of the drive train of the P38 diesel, no experience with them, as far as I know that variant never reaced our shores, and I have heard that the VCU fails in the "locked up" condition, sorry for any confusion there.
Click to expand...

The transmission on the diesel models is exactly the same layout as the petrols. Other than the 4.6 has an up rated gearbox and a four pin diff at the rear. (HP 24 4.6, HP 22 4.0 and diesel) :):)
 
VCU usually locks but has been known to gothe other way and just spin freely.
 
wammers said:
But not very often. :):)
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Maybe @ironhorse, could narrow down his search for the problem by somehow seeing what is happening inside the transfer case, does this transfer, which I'm assuming uses a chain and not gears, have any access covers that could be removed to inspect for internal motion or obvious broken bits. It seems a lot of trouble to go removing the gearbox maybe to find that the clutch is in fact still ok and a problem exists further down-the-line, just a thought.
 
Gazbo said:
Maybe @ironhorse, could narrow down his search for the problem by somehow seeing what is happening inside the transfer case, does this transfer, which I'm assuming uses a chain and not gears, have any access covers that could be removed to inspect for internal motion or obvious broken bits. It seems a lot of trouble to go removing the gearbox maybe to find that the clutch is in fact still ok and a problem exists further down-the-line, just a thought.
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As i said earlier could be a few things, but the connecting shaft from gearbox to transfer box does give way now and again on manuals. That would be my bet. But i am not there looking at the car. Can only go from info posted.
 
get it jacked up and start mooching for the obvious broken parts, oil and anything out of the ordinary. Failing that, start removing shaft ends and feel for anything abnormal. Good luck matey!
 
Update on the no traction, I spoke to the garage yesterday late afternoon, he told me car is out on test now, I said yes and, yes it was clutch related, his words!!! the mechanism had broken, I couldn’t push him further as he said I would have to speak to the mechanic that did the job, he said we are closed Saturday but you can pick the car up I’ll leave the key for you, I arranged to go in on Monday to settle up, picked car up this morning, not happy clutch bites straight off the floor, so obviously needs bleeding, and now hand brake rises to the top instead of 3 clicks, don’t why they have interfered with the hand brake, so although it wasn’t as bigger job as first thought bit naughty letting car go out with a dodgy clutch and dodgy hand brake. I will complete update after I’ve spoken to them on Monday.
 
ironhorse said:
Update on the no traction, I spoke to the garage yesterday late afternoon, he told me car is out on test now, I said yes and, yes it was clutch related, his words!!! the mechanism had broken, I couldn’t push him further as he said I would have to speak to the mechanic that did the job, he said we are closed Saturday but you can pick the car up I’ll leave the key for you, I arranged to go in on Monday to settle up, picked car up this morning, not happy clutch bites straight off the floor, so obviously needs bleeding, and now hand brake rises to the top instead of 3 clicks, don’t why they have interfered with the hand brake, so although it wasn’t as bigger job as first thought bit naughty letting car go out with a dodgy clutch and dodgy hand brake. I will complete update after I’ve spoken to them on Monday.
Click to expand...

Find out what the trouble was and report back. Had an LUK clutch kit once were the diaphragm fingers had not been tempered and just bent inwards when clutch was depressed. But that would not give no drive just very little if any release. Yours must have been spinner plate problems i would think.
 
The hand-brake is totally separate from the clutch. Cannot see how it can possibly be connected.

Maybe they didn't bleed the slave cylinder but then why would they need to unless the piston had been out?
 
Grrrrrr said:
The hand-brake is totally separate from the clutch. Cannot see how it can possibly be connected.

Maybe they didn't bleed the slave cylinder but then why would they need to unless the piston had been out?
Click to expand...

Hand brake needs to be disconnected to remove gearbox. Will just need the cable adjusting.
 
wammers said:
Hand brake needs to be disconnected to remove gearbox. Will just need the cable adjusting.
Click to expand...

Didn't on mine. IIRC I just popped off the cotter pin on the lever, lifted it up and disconnected the cable. Memory a bit vague admittedly.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Didn't on mine. IIRC I just popped off the cotter pin on the lever, lifted it up and disconnected the cable. Memory a bit vague admittedly.
Click to expand...

Yes that is what i mean, but they may have backed cable off to do that and not readjusted it. Shoes are adjusted with adjusting bolt on drum, travel on lever is adjusted with the cable. Or they may have backed adjusting bolt off on drum to gain slack on cable to release it then not adjusted shoes. A couple of options. Needs looking at.
 
I
Grrrrrr said:
Didn't on mine. IIRC I just popped off the cotter pin on the lever, lifted it up and disconnected the cable. Memory a bit vague admittedly.
Click to expand...
If you remove the brake drum and the output flange you can remove the four backplane bolts and tie the whole assembly out of the way if you have to remove the transfer box. It also lightens the fecking big lump if you have to do the job on your back,
 
Grrrrrr said:
The hand-brake is totally separate from the clutch. Cannot see how it can possibly be connected.

Maybe they didn't bleed the slave cylinder but then why would they need to unless the piston had been out?
Click to expand...
Wonder if the slave cylinder had jacked itself out fully and jammed so the clutch was constantly disengaged. Was the pressure plate and realease bearing were changed or just the drive plate?
 
tomcat59alan said:
I

If you remove the brake drum and the output flange you can remove the four backplane bolts and tie the whole assembly out of the way if you have to remove the transfer box. It also lightens the fecking big lump if you have to do the job on your back,
Click to expand...

Makes sense. I had a transmission jack so just dropped the lot.
 
ironhorse said:
Update on the no traction, I spoke to the garage yesterday late afternoon, he told me car is out on test now, I said yes and, yes it was clutch related, his words!!! the mechanism had broken, I couldn’t push him further as he said I would have to speak to the mechanic that did the job, he said we are closed Saturday but you can pick the car up I’ll leave the key for you, I arranged to go in on Monday to settle up, picked car up this morning, not happy clutch bites straight off the floor, so obviously needs bleeding, and now hand brake rises to the top instead of 3 clicks, don’t why they have interfered with the hand brake, so although it wasn’t as bigger job as first thought bit naughty letting car go out with a dodgy clutch and dodgy hand brake. I will complete update after I’ve spoken to them on Monday.
Click to expand...
AND????????????..................
 
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