Wazzajnr
Well-Known Member
What vehicle is it? If it's an auto, years ago, I had a sprag clutch go on a 3 speed auto and it wouldn't drive. If I put it in 2nd gear lockup, it would drive then into drive position once above about 20mph and it would then change to 3rd.
Not sure if the same happens on later, more intelligent boxes but worth a try.
Obviously, check oil levels and filter etc if auto box as that could loose drive too.
More information needed though to get a decent idea what's going on.
Not sure if the same happens on later, more intelligent boxes but worth a try.
Obviously, check oil levels and filter etc if auto box as that could loose drive too.
More information needed though to get a decent idea what's going on.
Need to know which model Range Rover you have...P38, Manual or Auto, L322 Diesel or Petrol...etc....
All will have different failure modes for no drive.....as an example, the L322 Diesel will be the gearbox giving up, or even, if the front diff recall hasn't been done and the splines have stripped, you loose drive also.
On the P38, could be lack of hydraulic pressure (although I think first gear is a mechanical engagement), so could be flexplate shattered, or input splines shagged....
Morse chain snapping is at the extreme end of the failure list, but is not unheard of if not all that common.
All will have different failure modes for no drive.....as an example, the L322 Diesel will be the gearbox giving up, or even, if the front diff recall hasn't been done and the splines have stripped, you loose drive also.
On the P38, could be lack of hydraulic pressure (although I think first gear is a mechanical engagement), so could be flexplate shattered, or input splines shagged....
Morse chain snapping is at the extreme end of the failure list, but is not unheard of if not all that common.
Muddy Vicky
Member
Clutch / torque converter depending on manual or auto?
Thanks for your help. I’ve just had a good look through my manuals, oh sorry it’s a P38 Manual 2.5 BMW. I bought the car around 3 months ago the chap I got it from told me he had just had a new clutch fitted, I receipt he had among the bits of paper that came with the car, listed the cost at around £100, he had his semi skilled work mates help him fit it, I must say I thought at the time that’s a bit cheap, well now I am convinced that is what the problem is the clutch burnt out.
The car is 1998 S reg 2.5 BMW diesel engine manual vogue, all symptoms I pulled away from traffic lights, as I did so I glanced in my mirror and saw black smoke, I thought oh **** that’s down to the pump something I need to look at, looked again in my mirror smoke had cleared obviously because I had lifted off accelerator a little, I then reached next roundabout, accelerated out of it reached top gear bang no traction, automatic reaction at the same time of bang clutch in, rolled to holt on side of road, engine still running not that revs ok nothing wrong there, tried gears nothing, tried low nothing, went up and down on high low nothing, got out checked underneath all appears ok, got back in tried again nothing no traction, but did sort of notice faint smell of something burnt, but was so faint rejected it, called breakdown to deliver car to garage and that’s where it is. Last night I went through what had happened, and looked over the workshop manual then I clicked I think the clutch burnt out, because I bought the car about 3 months ago, the former owner told me he had just fitted a new clutch, he went on to say he works as a semi skilled mechanic and he and his mates had done the job, knowing changing a clutch is no big deal I accepted that, went through papers that came with car the cost of his clutch was around £100, so he used a cheap rubbish replacement clutch, I’m thinking here lies my problem ?
Muddy Vicky
Member
Well if the engine runs but there's no connection to the gearbox that would seem to confirm it's the clutch. Only thing that's slightly strange is the amount of black smoke (unless it wasn't smoke and was the clutch plate disintegrating). If it was just the clutch plate the guy replaced I wouldn't have said that was too bad a price, but would agree that the job wasn't up to spec. Unfortunately you won't know until you've got the engine / gearbox out.
I should imagine the black smoke was the engine over revving due to the clutch disintegrating. I've seen it on cheap clutches, they heat up the drive faces due to slippage and that transfers the heat through the metalwork which bends and flexes till it snaps apart.
That's my take on it....
That's my take on it....
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Yep clutch centre plate or input shaft but unlightly, money would be on clutch, put a complete kit in Valeo are good and while the box is out take the chance to replace the roll pins in the fork arm, double pin it ,triple pin it or high tensile bolt through it they do sheer and you don't want to be taking the box out again just for them
I've had mine go twice, it wont do it again he says fingers crossed praying to the gods holding lucky rabbits foot with a four leaf clover touching wood and anything else
I've had mine go twice, it wont do it again he says fingers crossed praying to the gods holding lucky rabbits foot with a four leaf clover touching wood and anything else
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Never had any problems with Valeo , and a few others on here rate them as well.
£100.00 is dear for a new clutch kit trade.
Hmmm. New clutch just fitted? What's the betting they didn't replace the spiral pins and they've snapped and now the clutch fork is just loose and not connected? Should be able to waggle iot by hand if you get underneath. May have popped the slave cylinder.
But that would not result in no drive.
If Clutch fork was loose I should still have drive surely, Engine runs fines, I can select all gears but they don’t engage, if I pump the clutch pedal I can hear something moving/rattling briefly as I lift and drop the pedal, I still have clutch pedal resistance. I know on the older discovery’s and classic range rovers the fork would wear and eventually break through leaving the pedal on the floor, these range rovers have a completely different lay out, so if the slave had gone the or the fork had disengaged, either one or both the gear you were last in would still be engaged and you would shudder to a holt.But my car I lost traction completely the same as if I had put the clutch pedal to the floor ?
Wazzajnr
Well-Known Member
Sounds very much like the clutch spinner plate is dead.
The only other thought I had was that early landrovers used to shear halfshafts for fun on the v8's. I'm fairly sure this isn't a common problem nowadays though.
Also, I would have thought you would still get some drive through the LSD even with a broken halfshaft.
If I had to put a week's wages on it I'd go for clutch.
The only other thought I had was that early landrovers used to shear halfshafts for fun on the v8's. I'm fairly sure this isn't a common problem nowadays though.
Also, I would have thought you would still get some drive through the LSD even with a broken halfshaft.
If I had to put a week's wages on it I'd go for clutch.
Gazbo
Well-Known Member
Have you checked if either of the drive shafts from transfer case outputs to front and rear diffs are turning with the engine running gear engaged and clutch engaged? The problem could be simply a broken axle or diff pinion shaft, with either of these occurring you will end up with no drive, try engaging centre diff lock, if one diff or the other is the problem the vehicle will drive on the other diff.
I have experienced the same problem you describe when the front diff pinion shaft snapped in my old Rangie classic, drove it home with the front driveshaft removed and centre diff lock engaged.
Wazzajnr
Well-Known Member
I thought all the P38 had limited slip centre diff so even if one end isn't driving there would still be some drive.
See my comment above about halfshafts on early landrovers.
