Lanny_

New Member
Afternoon everyone!!

A newbie here about to buy my first Defender 110!
I'm fully aware of the stress, hassle and tears that are likely to be part of my Defender journey, but it's too late.... I'm in love!!

The Defender currently happens to be a 5 hour one way trip from me! So, I'm going to view it having done as much homework as possible, with a view to buying it and driving home.

I wondered if anyone could recommend, from experience, a Land Rover specialist or indeed a mechanic who is local to the Gateshead area and could carry out an inspection.

I'm not sure the RAC's service is adequate for a Defender.... Your views?
It would be sensible to pay their £400+ fee if it was a reliable check, but have read differing views online.

Thanks for reading this far!
 
Firstly welcome :).

You only need a small hammer and the will to walk away if it dont sound right.
Is it a private sale or trade?

Got any pics for us to look at and advise?

J
 
I'm not sure the RAC's service is adequate for a Defender.... Your views?
TBH a Defender is about the most simple vehicle built in the past 50 years and is super super super easy to assess. If you can't manage it, you probably shouldn't be buying vehicles at all! :vb-poke-with-stick: :)

Seriously, they are all nuts and bolts and easy to get at. They also have very little tech or variance in specification. Also worth noting that every single part is available and replaceable. Meaning that even buying a bad one can be fixed with relative ease.

As for paying someone to inspect, it is a doubled edged sword. Firstly, someone such as the RAC will list all minor things, because they will want to cover themselves if they don't point out even the slightest chance of something being wrong. So they are likely to be completely pedantic on what they find. Likewise any garage inspecting is also likely to be overly critical, because they will want the upsell to get you to take the vehicle to them to be fixed.

In reality, unless you have the ability to inspect the vehicle yourself, you will not really know the truth and honesty behind any inspection. i.e. you'd need someone to inspect the inspection to see if you could believe it or not.

Also, while. a Defender is super simple. Someone could easily get it wrong or miss something, e.g. Defender have a steering box and there will be play in the steering, even when brand new from the factory, but many MoT people and the like, such as an RAc inspector may not know this.

Have you been in or driven a Defender before? If not, go and have a go in one. You need a baseline to know if they one you are wanting to buy is better, worse or similar in how it drives.

What age/engine/spec are you looking at?
 
Ah what a friendly bunch!
I was hesitant to post as a potential first time owner but you've already been very helpful.

It's a 2001 Td5, 88k miles.
Private seller
New chassis last year, for which my local mechanic is happy that the invoice details all the additional work that you would expect alongside.

A good point made in regard to the inspection, in that it will throw up every last issue.

It passed the MOT within the last week with 2 advisories.

Oh and it is a camper conversion with 3 seats!

I've had experience of driving 90s, but not yet the 110.
 
Put a link up for some advice, with lots of photos. It's unlikely anyone here will steal it from under you nose. Many jobs are easier to sort than you may think if you get any problems. 110s ride a bit better than 90s because of the longer wheel base. Galv chassis atleast negates chassis rust problems. Make sure it has receipts/proof of chassis change. Check bulkhead for rust at bottom and around top door hinge area, and windscreen block area.
 
Put a link up for some advice, with lots of photos. It's unlikely anyone here will steal it from under you nose. Many jobs are easier to sort than you may think if you get any problems. 110s ride a bit better than 90s because of the longer wheel base. Galv chassis atleast negates chassis rust problems. Make sure it has receipts/proof of chassis change. Check bulkhead for rust at bottom and around top door hinge area, and windscreen block area.
Thank you!
I've added the issues that you mentioned above to my checklist 👍
 

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