samcoombes

Active Member
HI All

Just bought a Series 3. There are two big problems:

1. The brakes are virtually non existant. They really are bad. Is there a 'regular' problem, or do they need an overhaul? Does anyone know how much this should cost at a garage (any Indy's near Bournemouth / Southampton!?)

2. The steering too is all over the place. It pulls all over the road and feels quite unsafe. The previous owner said it has 'discovery' wheels - could this be the problem? Again, is there anything obvious which could solve this?

Thanks in advance, look foward to meeting a few of you one day!
 
Have yu got servo assisted brakes or not?

As for steering - they are invariably a bit "wooly" - get someone to rock the steering whel back and for whilst yu check every joint in the steering system - there are quite a few - the good news is replacement ball joints n stuff are cheap (from Paddocks).
 
sorry, not very mechanically minded!

How would I tell? I presume 'Paddocks' are the local spares people, can you buy online?

Thanks for your help!
 
sorry, not very mechanically minded!

How would I tell? I presume 'Paddocks' are the local spares people, can you buy online?

Thanks for your help!

1 - You will be:D - they are SO easy to work on.
2) Servo is round "Tub" in engine bay on front of bulkhead immediately in front of the pedal box.
Paddocks - not local - but online - yes - also Craddocks - google them.
 
If you have a short wheelbase land rover - probably NOT servo assisted. Also, on short wheelbases, drums, shoes and backplates are smaller diameter.

A long wheelbase should have the larger diameter drums, shoes and backplates.

In neither case do the brakes 'perform' anything like a modern saloon car and you should not expect them to. This lack of performance can be interpreted as poor braking or worn brakes.

Best thing to do is check drums and shoes for wear and that brakes are set properly and is realtively straight forward.

Steering. Well, again you are not going to get the performance of a modern saloon car. The steering is a bit 'vague'. When I bought my series 3 I was all over the road because I overcompensated - but one does get used to it after a short while. I think the tyres do make a difference - X -plies being a bit softer than radials.

You should get a copy of the Haynes Manual for the series land rovers. I'll get some flak for sying that, but I find it is good to read with the genuine land rover manual - copies of which are available as .pdfs off the net - see links from my website.
 
yup get yoself a haynes.
my swb 88" had servo brakes - so mite his - as standard 10" brakes - but it wouldnt be the first to have 11".
You need to either look at it or get it looked at quickly to ascertain its build standard. The are a few peeps in your area who mite be prepared to help yo.
 
I hope so - thats the bit i'm looking foward too! :D

See these, do they help!??!

Thanks again

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thanks guys. i'm hoping to get out tomorrow afternoon and have a good fiddle about. I've got the Series 3 Manual download, I see it's got a lot of info in.

I'm worried about bleeding the brakes, last time i did this it turned into a nightmare!!

Maybe a ride / someone else who has driven these before could have a go in mine and see if it's just me or if there is deffinately a problem. I'm sure though, that the brakes are deadly!
 
ok, had a wheel off earlier this morning. I cant see anything out of the ordinary, there is some wear left on the brakes.

I'm thinking it would be easier to book it into the local garage to see if they can fix it. I'm assusming the Series brake system is fairly simple, which they should be able to wokr on? Or would it be better to find a Landy specialist?

Thanks
 
Hi sam ,
this sounds just like my first land rover in 86, It was a bloody dog , and took months to get right.
1. look at the roadwheel while you are moving the steering wheel , A good tight steering box should only have about an inch of movement at the sterring wheel rim , before the roadwheel moves , MOT standard I believe for this type of sterring box is 3 inches. Mine was about 5 inches , when I first got it , but settled a bit with a tweak on the adjuster on the side. Needed replacing in the end , as it was more of a tiller , than a steering box.
2. brakes have to be in first class condition otherwise they are just plain scary , check this is no oil contamination on the drum pads,as this reduces braking by about 75% straight off . Follow the haynes manual to adjust them on the snail cam tweaker. If the drums are badly scored or shagged generally, they are a bargin at present , only about 10 to replace.

good luck dude

simon
 
cheers for the help. Is a steering box relatively cheap and easy to replace? Can they be bought 2nd hand / recon or is it best to get a new one?

Thanks
 
regarding the steering, i've found the adjustment nut. It can turn either way - i turned it 3 turns clockwise and the steering wheel has stiffened up, but there is still play.

How do i know when it's as tight as it can be without causing the lock to jam?
 
brakes and steering
I suggest that you get them looked at by a pro if you are unsure as to what you are doing.
A series landy is not the vehicle to have a accident in.
 
You could fit an automatic bonnet release catch to assist your poor braking performance. In the event of an emergency, release the bonnet: the added drag caused by wind rushing over the open bonnet will dramatically reduce your stopping time.
 
Hi sam , I can recall bringing the adjuster up to the point where it stop just with fingers , and then locking it off, any more than that and they'll be no tolerance inside the box , not good.
I think I saw a recon box recently for @£120 , cant remember where.

si
 
Steering wobbel can be any of the following
worn ball joints (all 6)
Steering box requires ajusting
Steering box loose
Simms on swivel ball's require seting up (wobbley wheels at speed)
Wheels out of balance.

Steering stiff
most of the above and
Damaged / dry steering box
Damaged / dry steering relay
 

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