ANK84

Member
Hi guys

Was on here a few months back looking at potential purchase of a S3. Thanks to everyone who helped back then as I’ve finally taken the plunge down the deep dark rabbit hole and bought a 1982 S3 88” 2.25 petrol. Might have bitten off a bit more than I can chew already 😬 but seems to be how most of us learn and start around here.

A few silly/daft newbie questions if anyone can help me out here:
1) What is the difference between the “choke on the dashboard and the “cold start control” next to the ignition key?
2) There are a number of pull switches on the auxiliary control panel (photo attached) that I can’t work out what an earth they do. Any guesses? The amber one flashes every now and again but is definitely not hazards as that is the other one
3) driver door has classic door shut line issues - any pointers about how I go about trying to resolve? (Photo attached). Tried moving the striker plate in as far as it can go but doesn’t seem to do the trick unfortunately
4) think the landy was sitting around for a bit before I bought it/may have timing issues but also could be poor fuel. Is red ex a bad idea?

Really sorry for the daft questions to start but hoping I can get some pointers in the right direction.

Thanks all and look forward to being part of this community

😁
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3224.jpeg
    IMG_3224.jpeg
    303.1 KB · Views: 100
  • IMG_3226.jpeg
    IMG_3226.jpeg
    312.6 KB · Views: 85
Rear tub is pretty much fixed so what I would do is start at the hinge end.
Remove striker plate and try and get a good even fitment of the door with adjusting hinges and brute force. After that try and get it to close nicely.
On our 2a the doors closed lovely with the door tops off, not so good with them on.
 
Hi guys

Was on here a few months back looking at potential purchase of a S3. Thanks to everyone who helped back then as I’ve finally taken the plunge down the deep dark rabbit hole and bought a 1982 S3 88” 2.25 petrol. Might have bitten off a bit more than I can chew already 😬 but seems to be how most of us learn and start around here.

A few silly/daft newbie questions if anyone can help me out here:
1) What is the difference between the “choke on the dashboard and the “cold start control” next to the ignition key?
2) There are a number of pull switches on the auxiliary control panel (photo attached) that I can’t work out what an earth they do. Any guesses? The amber one flashes every now and again but is definitely not hazards as that is the other one
3) driver door has classic door shut line issues - any pointers about how I go about trying to resolve? (Photo attached). Tried moving the striker plate in as far as it can go but doesn’t seem to do the trick unfortunately
4) think the landy was sitting around for a bit before I bought it/may have timing issues but also could be poor fuel. Is red ex a bad idea?

Really sorry for the daft questions to start but hoping I can get some pointers in the right direction.

Thanks all and look forward to being part of this community

😁
1) Not entirely certain but it could well be that at some point your Landy was fitted with a diesel engine and a control for the glow plugs, which would explain why you have the 2 different controls. In which case the cold start control next to the ignition switch has probably been disconnected and you just have the choke to the carb.

2) Apart from the hazard and fog lights, they could be absolutely anything a previous owner has wired/bodged.

3) What state are the door frames, hinges and bulkhead in? If the mounting holes are still where they are supposed to be and the door, hinges or bulkhead aren't twisted or rusted out of shape then you could try adjusting the angle or position of the hinges on the bulkhead or door, it is also entirely possible that the hinges are just badly worn and need replacing.

4) If the Landy has been sitting for more than a couple of months then drain the tank and put some fresh fuel in before trying to get it running. You can try some redex with the fresh fuel, it won't do any harm but don't be surprised if it doesn't make much improvement either.
 
4) If the Landy has been sitting for more than a couple of months then drain the tank and put some fresh fuel in before trying to get it running. You can try some redex with the fresh fuel, it won't do any harm but don't be surprised if it doesn't make much improvement either.
Also don't be surprised to find fuel pour out of the tank seam if you fill it more than half full.
This happened to us on the way back from buying it, had just got a MOT aswell.
 
1) Not entirely certain but it could well be that at some point your Landy was fitted with a diesel engine and a control for the glow plugs, which would explain why you have the 2 different controls. In which case the cold start control next to the ignition switch has probably been disconnected and you just have the choke to the carb.

2) Apart from the hazard and fog lights, they could be absolutely anything a previous owner has wired/bodged.

3) What state are the door frames, hinges and bulkhead in? If the mounting holes are still where they are supposed to be and the door, hinges or bulkhead aren't twisted or rusted out of shape then you could try adjusting the angle or position of the hinges on the bulkhead or door, it is also entirely possible that the hinges are just badly worn and need replacing.

4) If the Landy has been sitting for more than a couple of months then drain the tank and put some fresh fuel in before trying to get it running. You can try some redex with the fresh fuel, it won't do any harm but don't be surprised if it doesn't make much improvement either.
Thanks Dorset Dumpling. Some really useful pointers there. According to the manual the cold start was for a petrol engine But I’ll try to see if it does anything at all.

Bulkhead and chassis is good…I think- was rebuilt on a Richards galv chassis in 2016 I’m told. Think I’ll look at replacing the hinges etc later this summer when I change the hard top for a canvas tilt.
 
Rear tub is pretty much fixed so what I would do is start at the hinge end.
Remove striker plate and try and get a good even fitment of the door with adjusting hinges and brute force. After that try and get it to close nicely.
On our 2a the doors closed lovely with the door tops off, not so good with them on.
That could be a good point-door tops aren’t the best and I’m planning on replacing them later this summer. I’ll do as you suggest and remove the striker plate and look at the hinges etc.
 
Thanks Dorset Dumpling. Some really useful pointers there. According to the manual the cold start was for a petrol engine But I’ll try to see if it does anything at all.

Bulkhead and chassis is good…I think- was rebuilt on a Richards galv chassis in 2016 I’m told. Think I’ll look at replacing the hinges etc later this summer when I change the hard top for a canvas tilt.
Hmm, I have never heard of a petrol that has had both a cold start control and a choke cable. You learn something new every day.
 
On the auxiliary dash the rectangular warning light is for the brakes and wired to the PDWA switch on RH front chassis rail , perhaps one of the additional pull switches is a test for that
Some more pics inside and out would be useful to see what extras might have been fitted ie front fogs rear work lights etc
Just noticed the locking hinge on your filler cap is 180deg out to mine!
To check door hinges open up and shake it up and down
Does door fit ok at roofline
 
Last edited:
On some Landy's the cold start light would not come on when you pulled the choke out. The lamp would only light up when engine was warmed up, so reminding one to put the choke in. I had one with this system and it took a while to figure the randomness of the light coming on.
 
On the auxiliary dash the rectangular warning light is for the brakes and wired to the PDWA switch on RH front chassis rail , perhaps one of the additional pull switches is a test for that
Some more pics inside and out would be useful to see what extras might have been fitted ie front fogs rear work lights etc
Just noticed the locking hinge on your filler cap is 180deg out to mine!
To check door hinges open up and shake it up and down
Does door fit ok at roofline
Thanks for the pointers. Found out that one of them is for the interior light 🫤. Randomly the one that blinks amber when it’s on as if I wouldn’t know that interior light was switched on 🤣. Still working on the other one though
 

Similar threads