Remove extra lights or not


  • Total voters
    8
  • Poll closed .
Thanks, I have spoken to Dynachip.....they seem to have great reviews. I told him I want the egr blanking off as well. He will give me a
Copy of he current map and I assume the eka code.i have three keys in total and the all seem to work ok manually and blipper.

Mike is a good guy, he normally will also check the read outs to see how it is running.

Cheers
 
That v nice, disco 3. What model?

thks , it's the 7 x seater base model

as it was my first discovery i didn't want to worry about having the extras of the hse , along with the worry of extra wiring and mods etc

felt it better to start off with the basic model

been doing upgrades , like electric seats , happy with my tom tom sat nav

nearly finished the air suspension

also the higher the model the ins became higher

did try and get a D2 , alas though couldn't find one with a sound chassis

but did get a right result in the end with this one

must admit am very happy with it and so nice to drive

best thing i ever did
 
@Newto4x4
If you're going to get the bar off for a clean-up, you'll find the full instructions for fitting it, and hence removal is in RAVE, although it might be fairly easy to reach the fixings if you first remove the radiator grille, it's very easy, once the spotlights are out of the way and then reach in under the bumper. The instructions for removing the rad grille are in the section of the Owner's Handbook dealing with changing headlight bulbs.
If you've got that far, then you might as well practice changing the bulbs too. Use Osram "Nightbreakers" +120% or Phillips "X-Treme" +130%. The bulb type is H7.
RAVE can be downloaded from http://www.green-oval.com/data/lr/rave01.iso
 
Looks mint mate... I do hope at that price the chassis is good though...

Get some oil sprayed under her when the weather clears up
 
Nice looking car there.

Regarding removing the head light guards I think you're best off leaving them on. They bolt through the bodywork into nuts (possibly rivnuts) which are inside the bodywork. Removing them would leave the holes in your bodywork exposed.

The head light guards are a little annoying if you need to removing the head light to change a bulb, but it doesn't take too long, my car came with a landrover branded allen key for removing them which I keep in the car in case I need to change a bulb.
 
@Newto4x4
If you're going to get the bar off for a clean-up, you'll find the full instructions for fitting it, and hence removal is in RAVE, although it might be fairly easy to reach the fixings if you first remove the radiator grille, it's very easy, once the spotlights are out of the way and then reach in under the bumper. The instructions for removing the rad grille are in the section of the Owner's Handbook dealing with changing headlight bulbs.
If you've got that far, then you might as well practice changing the bulbs too. Use Osram "Nightbreakers" +120% or Phillips "X-Treme" +130%. The bulb type is H7.
RAVE can be downloaded from http://www.green-oval.com/data/lr/rave01.iso
Thanks buddy
Nice looking car there.

Regarding removing the head light guards I think you're best off leaving them on. They bolt through the bodywork into nuts (possibly rivnuts) which are inside the bodywork. Removing them would leave the holes in your bodywork exposed.

The head light guards are a little annoying if you need to removing the head light to change a bulb, but it doesn't take too long, my car came with a landrover branded allen key for removing them which I keep in the car in case I need to change a bulb.
yes, on reflection i think i will leave them on. i alternate between wanting it to look like a range and wanting the rough tough utilitarian look. guess thats what makes these vehicles look so good. Its being chipped tomorrow :) can't wait for the long drive home on Friday!
 
About the spots, get rid of them cos all they do there is to restrict the air flow through the intercooler and radiator... especilly if it's remapped it needs as cool air as possible in the inlet to feel the most of it
 
My word, what a difference. So much faster from about 1100 rpm. Alamo the as quick as my 2.5 5series was!! A lot tyke smoke if I boot it down at speed as gearbox drops two gears down. She flys my friends she flies!!!!!
 
My word, what a difference. So much faster from about 1100 rpm. Alamo the as quick as my 2.5 5series was!! A lot tyke smoke if I boot it down at speed as gearbox drops two gears down. She flys my friends she flies!!!!!

You sound happy with the Dynachip remap then!? You mentioned earlier in this thread that you asked Mike about the erg delete, were you able to pay him to do the delete for you on the same visit he did the remap or did he jut advise on the delete. I am interested in him carrying out the delete and remap at the same time if this is something he does. Cheers
 
He did not (and doesn't) fi the egr blanking. But he gave me advice on how to do it. It's very simple. He hooked my car up to diagnostics upon arrival, no faults (bonus as I paid a lot for the car). He said the air flow was low, so unplugged MAF sensor and advised me to replace. The remap is amazing, she performs like a normal car, not a 2.5 tonne mud plugger! I have since cleaned the MAF as a short term (until genuine LR part can be sourced) and re connected it. It's not made any difference to be honest. I am however now looking at getting a Range Rover so I may not do the EgR
 

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