Newto4x4
Member
In Nottingham area so give me a shout if you know some where relatively local I can go n play, cheers, Ray
In Nottingham area so give me a shout if you know some where relatively local I can go n play, cheers, Ray
neilly
Well-Known Member
Hi Newt,
I did leave you a reply in the intro you did.
If you remove the lights, then I am sure you can sell them easily enough. The light guards you might find are screwed into the bodywork, are they plastic or metal?
For a bit of offroading, I can recommend the Landyzone 13 weekend.
Oh, what condition is the chassis iin?
Cheers
I did leave you a reply in the intro you did.
If you remove the lights, then I am sure you can sell them easily enough. The light guards you might find are screwed into the bodywork, are they plastic or metal?
For a bit of offroading, I can recommend the Landyzone 13 weekend.
Oh, what condition is the chassis iin?
Cheers
Newto4x4
Member
Apparently wax oiled 3 years ago. I am
No expert but had a look underneath, I think until I got it the most off road it had ever done was mount a kerb! The light guards are held in with alum key and metal , Iay leave them in place unless its relatively cheap to have them
Filled and painted.cheers, I will google Land using 13 now
No expert but had a look underneath, I think until I got it the most off road it had ever done was mount a kerb! The light guards are held in with alum key and metal , Iay leave them in place unless its relatively cheap to have them
Filled and painted.cheers, I will google Land using 13 now
Newto4x4
Member
That looks tidy mate!
sherwood
Active Member
Thanks mate
I've been looking for months. I love my leather interior, in fact, and I only picked it up yesterday, I love all off it!! From the sedate, leisurely gear change to the steady wallowing through corners.
I am confirming chassis rear is ok, having looked underneath as much as I could when I first checked it out. Hope yours is all good too mate.
Where in Notts are you?
Newto4x4
Member
Hucknall, where did you get yours from? I almost brought a disco 3 but for the same money I was looking at 130k plus miles and the ones I saw all had various faults that the garages said "would be sorted on sale". I wasn't convinced tho. Ended up getting her from a landy specialist, Churchill 4x4
sherwood
Active Member
I found it the other side of Birmingham mate, I just had to keep expanding my search radius. I had looked at some real junk, but I knew the score because of the age of disco I was looking for
brian47
Well-Known Member
As you can see from mine, it's a 2004, Landmark model, I have a pair of spots on the front too. Regarding the light guards, as @neilly said, you'll probably find that they're screwed into the bodywork on the wing just behind the light fitting.
The spotlights on the front, if you don't like them, then remove them and put them up on the bay; you'll need 50 posts on here to sell them on the forum.
My feeling about anything on the front is why pay for the best, or even the very good stuff when cheap and cheerful will do, especially when they're way out in front and vulnerable. iirc those on the front cost me about 25 quid a pair.
If you do decide to remove them, I would advise that you retain the "sports bar" that they're mounted on, it looks like an official Land Rover one, and as they say, it won't eat or drink, and it's there if you decide to put lamps on it again.
Regarding the underside, waxoyl, like almost all other underside treatments does deteriorate over time, so it's probably time to get it checked and either re-touched or fully re-applied again.
neilly
Well-Known Member
@Newto4x4 & @sherwood ,
If you are going to have it remapped, then I would suggest de EGRing first and even de catting if not done.
I would also suggest either of you finding a local person with the correct diagnostic kit, Nanocom, Hawkeye , Lynx as you will more than likely need it at some point......
..........
Oh, and as already said, please find out your EKA code. Make sure your drivers door lock works with the key and if you do not haveone get a spare key including the fob and have the car coded to accept it.
Cheers
If you are going to have it remapped, then I would suggest de EGRing first and even de catting if not done.
I would also suggest either of you finding a local person with the correct diagnostic kit, Nanocom, Hawkeye , Lynx as you will more than likely need it at some point......
..........Oh, and as already said, please find out your EKA code. Make sure your drivers door lock works with the key and if you do not haveone get a spare key including the fob and have the car coded to accept it.
Cheers
Newto4x4
Member
Thanks Brian. I will keep the bar, I need to take
It off and clean it up a little as it's starting to corrode, nothing serious but.....thanks for the advice on the wax oil, I'll find someone local to re do it in the next few months.
Newto4x4
Member
Thanks, I have spoken to Dynachip.....they seem to have great reviews. I told him I want the egr blanking off as well. He will give me a@Newto4x4 & @sherwood ,
If you are going to have it remapped, then I would suggest de EGRing first and even de catting if not done.
I would also suggest either of you finding a local person with the correct diagnostic kit, Nanocom, Hawkeye , Lynx as you will more than likely need it at some point......
Oh, and as already said, please find out your EKA code. Make sure your drivers door lock works with the key and if you do not haveone get a spare key including the fob and have the car coded to accept it.
Cheers
Copy of he current map and I assume the eka code.i have three keys in total and the all seem to work ok manually and blipper.
