neilly
Well-Known Member
Hi Shortbase
Welcome to the Looneyzone. As a D2 owner I would recommend you do the following.
Get a copy of the Rave workshop manual.
Find / make a friend who has the correct working diagnostics.
Make sure you have the EKA code.
Also, get a 2nd keyfob if you have not got one already.
Cheers
Welcome to the Looneyzone. As a D2 owner I would recommend you do the following.
Get a copy of the Rave workshop manual.
Find / make a friend who has the correct working diagnostics.
Make sure you have the EKA code.
Also, get a 2nd keyfob if you have not got one already.
Cheers
Well I am a bit of a mechanics myself and my Disco Odyssey has now started, so here is a bit more history about me, my Landies and my D2.
First Landy? '73 RR Fleetline back in '86
First real Landy? 59 S2 swb Tcab. Bloody wonderful vehicle loved it to bits.
After that, succession of 2a's, 3's, a new defender 110 and the fully restored 2A.
And now the disco. I intend to do all the work myself, as I am a mechanical engineer of sorts. Now. After deciding to at last get another Landy, it was either a freelander or disco as defenders are just sooooo expensive. Having looked at a few real dogs, I found this one on eBay. 2002 GS TD5, looked great in the pictures, and a test drive felt good. There were a few usual d2 issues, and when I got it home I have found a few more:-
1 horn button popped out
Air suspension has a mind of its own.
Only one key, and a sticky barrel
Bit of head lining sag
Stuck rear jump seat
Tape over the airbag light (some sod did that)
AC not working
Some lights out
Headlight condensates
Passenger window don't work
And it is absolutely filthy
On the upside it drives beautifully, the 50 mile drive home was a dream, it is an entirely unmessed with vehicle, just uncared for and unloved, all panels are straight and true, sunroofs don't leak, engine is sweet and responsive, gearbox tight if a bit Landrover-ish, no spigot bearing whine, and its got a decent mot, and the rear chassis appears good. The injector loom, fuel pump and lines have been changed and the ECA system is all working OK.
SO, I will start working on the bits and pieces. New door lock and barrel, code 2 new keys with the Nanocom I intend to buy. Strip, clean and service all the air suspension parts and sensors as the underside is caked in 6" thick clay from the livery stable the last owner of 7 years ran. Decent service, full proper valet including removing all interior, check sunroofs, strip headlining and re stick, (did this on my old RR long ago!) and just put the Disco back to how it should be!
First Landy? '73 RR Fleetline back in '86
First real Landy? 59 S2 swb Tcab. Bloody wonderful vehicle loved it to bits.
After that, succession of 2a's, 3's, a new defender 110 and the fully restored 2A.
And now the disco. I intend to do all the work myself, as I am a mechanical engineer of sorts. Now. After deciding to at last get another Landy, it was either a freelander or disco as defenders are just sooooo expensive. Having looked at a few real dogs, I found this one on eBay. 2002 GS TD5, looked great in the pictures, and a test drive felt good. There were a few usual d2 issues, and when I got it home I have found a few more:-
1 horn button popped out
Air suspension has a mind of its own.
Only one key, and a sticky barrel
Bit of head lining sag
Stuck rear jump seat
Tape over the airbag light (some sod did that)
AC not working
Some lights out
Headlight condensates
Passenger window don't work
And it is absolutely filthy
On the upside it drives beautifully, the 50 mile drive home was a dream, it is an entirely unmessed with vehicle, just uncared for and unloved, all panels are straight and true, sunroofs don't leak, engine is sweet and responsive, gearbox tight if a bit Landrover-ish, no spigot bearing whine, and its got a decent mot, and the rear chassis appears good. The injector loom, fuel pump and lines have been changed and the ECA system is all working OK.
SO, I will start working on the bits and pieces. New door lock and barrel, code 2 new keys with the Nanocom I intend to buy. Strip, clean and service all the air suspension parts and sensors as the underside is caked in 6" thick clay from the livery stable the last owner of 7 years ran. Decent service, full proper valet including removing all interior, check sunroofs, strip headlining and re stick, (did this on my old RR long ago!) and just put the Disco back to how it should be!
neilly
Well-Known Member
Hi @Shortbase
Did you find out what the EKA code was?
Sticky barrel is an easy fix, if you have not found it there is a good write up on how to remove it and "fix" the issue.
Spare key is easy enough to get and get the car programmed to receive it. If you knwo someone with a nancom.
Cheers
Did you find out what the EKA code was?
Sticky barrel is an easy fix, if you have not found it there is a good write up on how to remove it and "fix" the issue.
Spare key is easy enough to get and get the car programmed to receive it. If you knwo someone with a nancom.
Cheers
Well, a quick little job for this evening. NSF headlight has water in it , about a tablespoon full. So decided to remove said headlight and dry it out. Realised you can't remove the lens, so pulled the whole unit out, removed the bulb holders, bulbs etc end with judicious use of kitchen towel have dried most of it out. Headlight is drying out overnight in the airing cupboard. However. Both small bolts holding the top plastic cover mount to the slam panel have sheared. Oh well, Drill, tap and make 2 new bolts. Not quite the 1/2 hour job I anticipated. But with Land Rovers, is it ever??
neilly
Well-Known Member
OK,
Have a read of these.
The alarm attachment: in here, plus download the rave manual.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/handy-buying-alarm-info.311291/
This attachment is an quick fix for the ignition. It may be D1 nut it is very similar if it is.
Find a friend with a nanocom. it is cheaper.
Cheers
Have a read of these.
The alarm attachment: in here, plus download the rave manual.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/handy-buying-alarm-info.311291/
This attachment is an quick fix for the ignition. It may be D1 nut it is very similar if it is.
Find a friend with a nanocom. it is cheaper.
Cheers
Well this mornings "Discovery adventures" didn't quite go to plan. I was hoping to dry out the OSF headlight, change the wing mirror and look into the NSF window malfunction. Got there eventually but with some diversions on the way.
Headlight dried out OK, but discovered broken lower light mounts on both headlights. So both removed, judicious use of superglue to repair the plastic, but both securing screws (the little torx ones) holding the small angle bracket to the light cluster were stuck solid. So I had to drill them out to free off the broken part of the plastic mount, re-tap the holes to m5, make a couple of new m5 bolts and re-fit the lights.
At this point I removed the engine top cover as there has been a little bit of rattle from it and I discovered the O/s bolt on the TD5 engine was stripped thread. Puzzled, I checked all the bolts, same thread and trying a different bolt resulted in that too starting to strip the thread. So I got my m8 tap and re-cut the thread in the bracket. Very difficult (hard metal nut) as the tap really was difficult to turn, but got there in the end. I re-cut the threads on the bolts and all was good.
On to the NSF window. Could hear the motor turning, but no window operation. So stripped out the door panel and drip sheet, again checked operation. Plenty of noise but no movement, so out with the reguLator. Window taped in place and with the regulator on the bench I pulled the motor which was fine, and the mechanism too had all it's teeth, so it must be the regulator, they may be sealed units, but I am a curious sort and engineer by job title which means I need to know how stuff works, or not. So openedned the regulator case, and yup, the plastic gear had a broken core. So new unit ordered for £25
Wing mirror replacement went without a hitch!!!
Headlight dried out OK, but discovered broken lower light mounts on both headlights. So both removed, judicious use of superglue to repair the plastic, but both securing screws (the little torx ones) holding the small angle bracket to the light cluster were stuck solid. So I had to drill them out to free off the broken part of the plastic mount, re-tap the holes to m5, make a couple of new m5 bolts and re-fit the lights.
At this point I removed the engine top cover as there has been a little bit of rattle from it and I discovered the O/s bolt on the TD5 engine was stripped thread. Puzzled, I checked all the bolts, same thread and trying a different bolt resulted in that too starting to strip the thread. So I got my m8 tap and re-cut the thread in the bracket. Very difficult (hard metal nut) as the tap really was difficult to turn, but got there in the end. I re-cut the threads on the bolts and all was good.
On to the NSF window. Could hear the motor turning, but no window operation. So stripped out the door panel and drip sheet, again checked operation. Plenty of noise but no movement, so out with the reguLator. Window taped in place and with the regulator on the bench I pulled the motor which was fine, and the mechanism too had all it's teeth, so it must be the regulator, they may be sealed units, but I am a curious sort and engineer by job title which means I need to know how stuff works, or not. So openedned the regulator case, and yup, the plastic gear had a broken core. So new unit ordered for £25
Wing mirror replacement went without a hitch!!!
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And finally today, removed one of the jump seats to find out why the unlocking mechanism doesnt work when trying to put the seat away. Soon as it was unbolted it was obvious, simply the cable from the twist grip on the back of the seat had become unclipped. Re fitted and we are back in business. Also dried out the OSR light cluster and superglued the crack which appears to have been letting in the water!
Total cost of today's tinkering? £26.99 for the new regulator for the window.
Jobs completed? Headlights dried out. Window investigation sorted. Wing mirror assembly replaced. Rear light dried and sealed, jump seat fixed.
Quite a good days work I feel
Total cost of today's tinkering? £26.99 for the new regulator for the window.
Jobs completed? Headlights dried out. Window investigation sorted. Wing mirror assembly replaced. Rear light dried and sealed, jump seat fixed.
Quite a good days work I feel
Right. Couple of questions on the ignition barrel/immobiliser on my 2002 D2
Original barrel is knackered and temperamental and the car only came with 1 key. I now have a full replacement barrel, keys and door handle, with receiver? Attached to the barrel.
1) as I have the barrel, receiver and door lock and 2 keys, do I still need to swap the fob part of the original key onto one of the new keys and get a new fob part for the 2nd key?
2) does the Valeo receiver on the key barrel receive the only signal from the fob, or is the ECU a receiver also, meaning that I do need to program a second fob (via nanocom) so that the ecu/immobiliser will work?
3) can the 2 keys that have come with the replacement lock be reprogrammed by the Nanocom, or do I need replacement fob parts?
Thanks
SB
Original barrel is knackered and temperamental and the car only came with 1 key. I now have a full replacement barrel, keys and door handle, with receiver? Attached to the barrel.
1) as I have the barrel, receiver and door lock and 2 keys, do I still need to swap the fob part of the original key onto one of the new keys and get a new fob part for the 2nd key?
2) does the Valeo receiver on the key barrel receive the only signal from the fob, or is the ECU a receiver also, meaning that I do need to program a second fob (via nanocom) so that the ecu/immobiliser will work?
3) can the 2 keys that have come with the replacement lock be reprogrammed by the Nanocom, or do I need replacement fob parts?
Thanks
SB
Attachments
neilly
Well-Known Member
If you have full fobs with the circuit boards inside them, that came with the new lock set then you can program the car to accept these, as well as be able to use the old fob from your original keys as well.
Very easy to do. in fact bbs made a video of how to do it on you tube.
Cheers
Very easy to do. in fact bbs made a video of how to do it on you tube.
Cheers
@neilly you are a DIAMOND!!! Soon be back on the road. Just got to convince the wife now that the expense of a Nanocom is essential this month......
Oscar H.M. De Vries
Member
When you get to the headliner let me know how the job was done. Have the same with mij 2004 Disco and need to take the time to fix.
