OK - I've put the car in 1st, jacked up the rear of the car (Only one side) and tried to turn the rear wheel but I wasn't able to tuen the wheel at all.

I realise that it will be hard to move anyway, but how hard? - I couldn't budge it, but didnt have a bar to use as a lever.
 
Bugger !
Never even thought of that - Dohh! :) (It's been a long day!)

I'll try again tomorrow night, this time with the handbrake off ;)
Also, searching the forum some people have mentioned testing the drivers side wheel.

Once I've released said handbrake, how much pressure will I need to apply to move the wheel?

(Sheesh .... still can't believe I never thought of releasing the handbrake!)
 
hi there

welcome to the forum chap

as most have confirmed on here - the stally thing on full lock is normal - i have a 3 month old TD4 Auto and it manages to stall the auto-box if it is cold

Just a thought re your suspicions regarding the VC - are you a member of either the AA or RAC? I know some people on here may not have a particularly high opinion of them but they do offer a pretty good impartial vehicle inspection if needed, may be of some help if you find a problem that may be covered by the 'warranty' (they also offer free legal help to members as well - not something that the AA advertise freely - you have to ask).

Either that or an independent LR dealer (whereabouts in the country are you?) may well be able to confirm either way if the VCU is OK

welcome anyways!

Stu
 
That is funny :D Hand brake on. We've all done it though. I was trying to change a brake drum once with the hand brake on......muppet !!
 
Not to worry Si!
wiv all dun it,
As for how much effort you need to turn the wheel (with the H/Brake off. Ha Haa hhaahahha)I aint sure , it just says resistance should be felt when using an 18" bar thro the shaft, so if yer just tuggin on the wheel it would feel stiffer than, er! A thing that has resistance????? Not much use, but see what happens tmorro, If yer carnt shift it , Its ferkered. apparently?
 
I have a quid here that says the clunking is a loose driveshaft or rear diff bush. Is it a "clunk" or a "bang"? Personally I would check the diff 1st, get under the rear and try and push the front of the rear diff upwards. If it moves you need a new bush and the noise under throttle is the diff hitting the underside of the car. You may also notice some clean bits where the UJ has been rubbing on the underside of the floor. If there is no play move onto the UJ's on the prop shaft itself. If the "U" shaped washers have fallen out where the prop shaft joins the VC unit this leaves lots of play for the splines to "clunk" when put under load. If the clunking also happens in reverse especially when parking and applying some steer then chances are its some bolt loose on the prop. They tend to be quiet until changing from forward to reverse or reverse to forward (parking situations especially) When one loosens the play causes vibration which then goes on to loosen another and so on...
Chech the bolts inside the UJ's first and ensure they are tight and with the thick alloy "U" shaped washers in place, then move onto the rear diff and IRD at either end of the prop ensuring the bolts are all nice and tight. If one has loosened they will all be onto it!

Hope this helps.
 
ok - An update

Put car in 1st, RELEASED handbrake ;), chocked wheels and jacked up rear drivers side wheel. I then used the tyre-wrench to try and turn the wheel.

The wheel would turn relatively easily, however, only about 2-inches then it would be solid.
I could turn the wheel the opposite direction 4-inches (i.e back to it's original position plus another 2-inches) and again it would be solid.
Looking under the car when I did this I could see centre of the rear diff lift slightly. I could also see the rear drive shaft turn in either direction 2-inches, along with the rear section of the VC unit.

As mentioned, the wheel, rear diff, drive shaft and rear of the VC will turn approx 2-incges in either direction but no more no matter how hard I tried.
I assume it should continue turning....or should it?
Only one wheel was jacked up, and unsure whether both wheels need to be jacked for a thorough check !?

Any ideas guys?
Cheers
 
SimonG said:
ok - An update

Put car in 1st, RELEASED handbrake ;), chocked wheels and jacked up rear drivers side wheel. I then used the tyre-wrench to try and turn the wheel.

The wheel would turn relatively easily, however, only about 2-inches then it would be solid.
I could turn the wheel the opposite direction 4-inches (i.e back to it's original position plus another 2-inches) and again it would be solid.
Looking under the car when I did this I could see centre of the rear diff lift slightly. I could also see the rear drive shaft turn in either direction 2-inches, along with the rear section of the VC unit.

As mentioned, the wheel, rear diff, drive shaft and rear of the VC will turn approx 2-incges in either direction but no more no matter how hard I tried.
I assume it should continue turning....or should it?
Only one wheel was jacked up, and unsure whether both wheels need to be jacked for a thorough check !?

Any ideas guys?
Cheers
Click to expand...

Yer left it gear, dint yer?

Sorry should av mentioned that bit!

Not taking the P**s SORRY
 
Errm.....yes :confused:

I thought I read somewhere that it needed to be in 1st gear.
Am I being simple again? ...if so, I hereby promise to change my forum name to "Simple Simon" :p
 
SimonG said:
Errm.....yes :confused:

I thought I read somewhere that it needed to be in 1st gear.
Am I being simple again? ...if so, I hereby promise to change my forum name to "Simple Simon" :p
Click to expand...

Now yer say that!!! could make sense!
Surely the VCU would still allow you to turn the rear wheel (in first gear)
Unless it seized?????
Somebody help here Im pis**d
 
Just tried with it in neutral - Same thing, but does move a little further.
Gets to a certain point and wonlt turn any further. If I release pressere the wheel almost springs back to it's original position.
!?!?
 
OOhh!
Well that suggest to me that the VCU is siezed, Cos in theory the VCU is'nt physically connected to yer IRD, Unless all the silicon bits inside say OOHHH quick drive the back wheels cos the fronts going too fast,
But thats just my understanding of VCU's

Somebody confirm it please, Wheres LRGUY?, Willo, Mark, Tiny. even Ming would do!!!
 
I guess they're all watching footie :)

Doesn't sound good though - I'll give the garage a call tomorrow and get them to check it out.
I really hope we've not bought a lemon - I'd assumed that such a low mileage and well maintained one would be ok.
 
SimonG said:
I really hope we've not bought a lemon - I'd assumed that such a low mileage and well maintained one would be ok.
Click to expand...

I fear most Freelanders have problems. Ours had HG failure at around 37k miles and the gearbox played up at one point. Boot light didn't work either :(
Trouble is they're a typical British motor, great vehicle but far too unreliable.
 
my experience has been similar my HG went and when i traded my car in i was told that all that needed done was the inline thermostat to be replaced, i also had a problem with a banging noise coming from the car when i went round a corner slowly, it turned out to be my propshaft bearings, which thankfully was under warranty
 
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