G

gavinbray

New Member
Hello,I went to see a Range Rover P38 that a friend was thinking of buying and fell in love with them,so just had to get 1 myself.I was already aware of the issues surrounding the suspension on these cars so when I found 1 that had the suspension replaced it seemed obvious to go for it,but there are problems.

The chap I bought the car from said that all 4 bags and the pump have been replaced(with bills to prove) however he had a snap on computer that he says can't reset the EAS fault code and that I would need to take it to Land Rover etc. So what I was left with is a car with EAS fault light on and because of this(he said) I couldn't adjust the suspension until I have it reset however(again he said) the car is at normal ride height so is fine to drive(this is enough for me,so I buy it) however although as he said I can't adjust the suspension using the buttons,the suspension is adjusting itself!!! I drove the car to work this evening and when I got there the front was very high and the back very low,turning the ignition on and off a few times got the front down,although the back went a bit high.It remained like that until I finished work,I drove home(20 miles) and by the time I got home both the front and back were high(have just nipped out and checked,fronts are about 11cm tyre to arch and the rears about 12cm),problem is I think the suspension having a mind of its own is causing handling problems at speed(felt uncomfortable above about 50-60mph) and sometimes I can feel the fronts lurch which I am guessing is when the suspension changes. So is this down to the ECU needing resetting? or is there another problem?
Thank you
Gavin
 
Just thought I would add in relation to the distance between wheel and arch I mentioned,the car has 2004 alloys fitted which I think are bigger that standard.
Thank you
Gavin
 
gavinbray said:
Just thought I would add in relation to the distance between wheel and arch I mentioned,the car has 2004 alloys fitted which I think are bigger that standard.
Thank you
Gavin
Click to expand...

Greetings

The size of the wheels will have no effect on the measurement from the centre of the hub to the wheel arch.
The distances should be
high 510mm
standard 470mm
access 405mm

However this information is useless unless you can do something with it. On here there is a very knowledgeable and helpful member - DATATEK. In exchange for some wine tokens (he lives in France) he will supply you with the software and connection lead so that you can plug your own laptop into the car, read the faults, clear the faults and set the heights.

The good news seems to be that your compressor and bags seem to be working but you've got an electronic fault.

Mind you a search on this forum would have given you a day or twos reading and all of this information. That might be a good idea before the bears come out of the woods.

:D
 
Do you have any messages relating to the EAS on the dash? What is the state of the 4 lights on the EAS level indicator?
As dogsbody said, I can supply the free RSW software on CD along with the necessary cable to read and clear faults, adjust heights etc. The CD also has a copy of RAVE the LR workshop manual which you are likely to need at some time.
The first step will be to read the faults.
 
Hello Chaps,thanks fpr the reply. Really sorry Datatek but late last night before I saw these replies I ordered a software CD and lead from ebay!! sorry. I will check in a while to be sure but all 4 lights on the level indicator are on(although when I was switcjing the ignition on and off in a (succesfull) effort to get the front to go down I believe they were flashing,but the rest of the time all 4 on and steady. Dash just says EAS fault and doesn't say 35mph max etc,also the EAS fault light is on(car with arrow under it). Now please bare with me as this is my first Range Rover,but after reading some of the owners manual last night(only got the car yesterday) It would appear that the suspension SHOULD adjust itself whilst driving,although I am not sure it is working as it shoould as I am convinced it changes as I drove down a duel carraigeway(not good) and also there is a button I can use to over ride this so will try that too.

Anymore help based on the above would be great guys.
Thank you
Gavin
 
gavinbray said:
Hello Chaps,thanks fpr the reply. Really sorry Datatek but late last night before I saw these replies I ordered a software CD and lead from ebay!! sorry. I will check in a while to be sure but all 4 lights on the level indicator are on(although when I was switcjing the ignition on and off in a (succesfull) effort to get the front to go down I believe they were flashing,but the rest of the time all 4 on and steady. Dash just says EAS fault and doesn't say 35mph max etc,also the EAS fault light is on(car with arrow under it). Now please bare with me as this is my first Range Rover,but after reading some of the owners manual last night(only got the car yesterday) It would appear that the suspension SHOULD adjust itself whilst driving,although I am not sure it is working as it shoould as I am convinced it changes as I drove down a duel carraigeway(not good) and also there is a button I can use to over ride this so will try that too.

Anymore help based on the above would be great guys.
Thank you
Gavin
Click to expand...

More than 30 seconds at above 50 mph will lower suspension to motorway height. It will return to standard height after 30 seconds below 35 mph. You need the faults clearing all lights on without 35 mph message means EAS ECU is stuck in self check mode. You can stop changes by pressing inhibit switch to right of height selection switch.
 
Last edited:
Gav

might also be a dodgy height sensor that has gone "out of range" - As already said, read the codes and as you don't have a "hard fault" (no 35mph message on dash) you might get away with just a reset. As wammer said, until you get this done, once the car is level, press the inhibit switch on the dash and that will stop it self adjusting

Good luck, be positive, once the EAS is working as it should, you will love it!!!!!!
 
I know it sounds daft but all lamps on with just EAS fault simply means in self check ECU has found something it has no fault code for. It thinks there is a problem but does not know what it is. It's just a glitch usually and goes away, maybe a dirty connection or something silly like that. But it needs clearing to reset ECU.
 
wammers said:
I know it sounds daft but all lamps on with just EAS fault simply means in self check ECU has found something it has no fault code for. It thinks there is a problem but does not know what it is. It's just a glitch usually and goes away, maybe a dirty connection or something silly like that. But it needs clearing to reset ECU.
Click to expand...

+1

They probably let a wheel extend too much getting crud on a height sensor during the airbag change.
 
Ok thank you for the replies,very helpfull indeed and by the sounds of it there shouldn't be any major problems. I am hoping the lead and software turn up by the weekend so I can connect it up and reset etc,I will let you know how that goes but fingers crossed.

Never rain but pours as they say as the remote locking has just stopped working!!! I had the key code so I can open it with the key(all 4 doors working on central locking) and can start it up so not a major issue however it would be nice for the remote locking to work,it was fine up until 30 minutes ago!!

Thank you
Gavin
 
Gav

are the batteries in the key fob OK - does the little red light come on when you press the button.

Unlikely to be the RF receiver if it was OK half an hour ago -

welcome to the joys of owning a P38
 
Gav

as a precaution, replace the batteries in the fob and even change the buttons. Kits on e-bay and only costs a few quid
 
gavinbray said:
Yeah good shout will do :)
Click to expand...

If it's an early RF receiver, it is possible, likely even, that it is being swamped by signals from WiFi, wireless door bells and many other things. It can lead to a flat battery and burnt door locks.

If it does it again and the FOB is OK, think about checking and if necessary replacing the RF receiver:)
 
I remember something about the different types of remote locking with an old rover I had,how do I tell which type I have?
 
I bought the disc and lead and it has been a godsend - I do have instruction how to use should it come without

The only slight problem I have is that my version does not work with Windows 7 - thank God I also have an older laptop running Windows Vista so I have to use that laptop

They are so sensitive - hit a deep pothole and bang the sensors go - I have certainly had my money;s worth
 
That sounds good news Geo1,I have an old vista laptop but I got my daughter a windows 7 1 so I should be covered. Somewhere a chap said(think it may have been on this forum) that he got a really old and out of date laptop(very small one) and the software works on that so he keeps it in his car so can use it at anytime :)
 
Oh and just incase i don't get instructions how do I use the software,obviously I load the laptop up with the software but do I have ignition on when plugging in etc.
Cheers
Gavin
 
gavinbray said:
Oh and just incase i don't get instructions how do I use the software,obviously I load the laptop up with the software but do I have ignition on when plugging in etc.
Cheers
Gavin
Click to expand...

Is there not a printable instruction manual on the disc? If not go to RSW site and get it.
 
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