Bobdog

Bobdog

Well-Known Member
As above, just fitted 2 new shocks and a new n/s hub (britpart... yes I know...). All went together well, quick test and 3 amigos came up. Stuck it on the nanocom, abs fault showing, so cleared it and lights stayed on. Took it for a test drive, lights stayed on, back on the nano and no faults showing! Tried again, now I'm getting ECU communication error, but only in SLABS, it's showing engine readings ok. What have I done wrong? (Apart from buy britpart but money is an issue right now)
 
Someone with more know how will correct this, but I'm sure I read ages ago that some cheaper hubs had wrong number of teeth on the ABS reluctor (?) ring
 
Your ECU is rising against the britpart hub :cool:

On the serious side, unplug nanocom then plug it back and try again and if you'll get comms and still no fault codes go into BCU - Read inputs - Instruments and see what you get for each of the amigos...btw do you get the bongs too or just the lights?
Bobdog said:
..abs fault showing..
Click to expand...
what code?

another thing... do the amigos come on all together imediately after the ignition self test?
 
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sierrafery said:
Your ECU is rising against the britpart hub :cool:

On the serious side, unplug nanocom then plug it back and try again and if you'll get comms and still no fault codes go into BCU - Read inputs - Instruments and see what you get for each of the amigos...btw do you get the bongs too or just the lights?

another thing... do the amigos come on all together imediately after the ignition self test?
Click to expand...
Ok... all lights came on together, including handbrake light and green hdc light. I wondered if when pulling out the shock turrets, I may have dislodged a cable or connector but all seemed fine. I thought maybe a fuse had gone so looked in the fuse box to find the ABS relay lying on its side, out of its socket! Plugged it back in and went back into nanocom, only the 3 lights on this time and fault logged - "abs sensor electrical failure 006 times"
Cleared that fault but the lights stayed on even after a drive and ignition reset.
Oh and no bongs.
 
sierrafery said:
which sensor.? the new one? ... and it comes back the same after it was cleared? ...anyway read live stationary sensor inputs and see what you get there
Click to expand...
Yes the new one. I thought the fault was showing because of the fact I had changed the hub and it would clear ok. I only changed it because it failed the MOT on a noisy bearing (and worn out shock bushes). Could the new sensor cable be faulty? And why was my ABS relay out of its socket?? That's the real mystery!
Once I clear it, it says no faults but the lights stay on.
 
That's a nanocom glitch IMO, it is not 100% reliable when it comes to SLABS fault codes... see the live inputs cos if it's the sensor it will not have the around 2V input like the others
 
sierrafery said:
which sensor.? the new one? ... and it comes back the same after it was cleared? ...anyway read live stationary sensor inputs and see what you get there
Click to expand...
Looking at sensor inputs which I assume is titled "SENS (V)" , I've got 002.21 for all except Rear Right, which says 000.00
What does that mean? I changed the front left hub! :confused:
 
That's what i meant about nanocom's unreliability with codes and from my experience the live inputs are OK while the code can be erratic... unplug the front left sensor and read inputs again cos then you should get 0V on front left too which means the live data is good and the fault is in reality with the rear right... make sure it's was not accidentally unplugged
 
sierrafery said:
That's what i meant about nanocom's unreliability with codes and from my experience the live inputs are OK while the code can be erratic... unplug the front left sensor and read inputs again cos then you should get 0V on front left too which means the live data is good and the fault is in reality with the rear right... make sure it's was not accidentally unplugged
Click to expand...
I'll try that, where is the rear sensor plug?
 
follow the wire from the hub it should be somewhere reachable about 40cm above unless your's is with the long wire sensors which are hardwired
 
sierrafery said:
follow the wire from the hub it should be somewhere reachable about 40cm above unless your's is with the long wire sensors which are hardwired
Click to expand...
I did what you said, unplugged front left, nothing changed on the nanocom- still showing rear right. Found the plug, attached to the rear chassis. To be fair, I haven't been near the rear hubs today, I thought maybe there was a plug in the engine bay for the rear but apparently the inputs are showing wrong on the nanocom anyway. For whatever reason, the nano seems to think front left is rear right!
 
Bobdog said:
I thought maybe there was a plug in the engine bay for the rear but apparently the inputs are showing wrong on the nanocom anyway.
Click to expand...
NO the inputs are showing well but the fault code is wrong (quite common for nanocom in relation with SLABS), the fault is with the RR sensor's input which triggers the amigos... the RR sensor's wiring is connected to C0392/0378 pins 3-4 so eventually check that...eventually if you have the old hub which was removed connect it's sensor to the RR plug and see inputs then and if you still get 0V then it's a wiring issue but if the input is good it's the sensor

C0392.jpg
 
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sierrafery said:
NO the inputs are showing well but the fault code is wrong (quite common with nanocom in relation to SLABS), the fault is with the RR sensor's input which triggers the amigos... the RR sensor's wiring is connected to C0392/0378 pins 3-4 so eventually check that...eventually if you have the old hub which was removed connect it's sensor to the RR plug and see inputs then and if you still get 0V then it's a wiring issue but if the input is good it's the sensor

View attachment 172995
Click to expand...
Erm... my mate who was helping me, cut the old sensor cable to make it easier to remove...
Looking at those pics, those connectors are under the header tank right above the shock turret which we removed with great difficulty through a tangle of pipes and the cables shown. There is a strong chance something got dislodged in our fight to get it out... I'll have a look tomorrow in daylight.
 
sierrafery said:
NO the inputs are showing well but the fault code is wrong (quite common for nanocom in relation with SLABS), the fault is with the RR sensor's input which triggers the amigos... the RR sensor's wiring is connected to C0392/0378 pins 3-4 so eventually check that...eventually if you have the old hub which was removed connect it's sensor to the RR plug and see inputs then and if you still get 0V then it's a wiring issue but if the input is good it's the sensor

View attachment 172995
Click to expand...
Just thinking about this again, if the inputs are showing correctly, why is there no change when I unplug the front left sensor? If what you say is correct, i should have seen a zero reading on front left but i didnt. Maybe what I should have done is unplug the rear right sensor.
 
Bobdog said:
Just thinking about this again, if the inputs are showing correctly, why is there no change when I unplug the front left sensor? If what you say is correct, i should have seen a zero reading on front left but i didnt. Maybe what I should have done is unplug the rear right sensor.
Click to expand...
I think you've got me with this and your logic is good :oops:, i mixed up things cos i've seen wrong codes with good inputs too many times and i've got carried away but in this case you are right and it seems that nanocom mixed up FL with RR for good... follow your logic and figure it out
 
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sierrafery said:
I think you've got me with this and your logic is good, i mixed up things cos i've seen wrong codes with good inputs too many times and i was carried away but in this case you are right and it seems that nanocom mixed up FL with RR for good... follow your logic and figure it out
Click to expand...
I couldn't wait and went out with a worklight to have a look. Nothing seems loose or damaged. So, bearing in mind the above regarding FL and RR, the nanocom seems confused but it appears there is a connection issue in the sensor cable.
Britpart...... :mad:
 
I think that the relay jumped out of it's socket too as it felt a britpart hub :cool: ... next time when you are on a budget get bearmach aftermarkets cos those are the most reliabe amongst the cheap ones... avoid allmakes as well cos they used to sell hubs with 55 teeth on the reluctor ring... unplug the sensor and measure resistance in it's plug with multimeter...it should be between 950-1100 Ohm if the sensor is good and if it's so then maybe you hurt the wiring beyond it somehow cos the front plugs are hardwired to the ECU no connector involved like from the rears
 
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