I think that the relay jumped out of it's socket too as it felt a britpart hub :cool: ... next time when you are on a budget get bearmach aftermarkets cos those are the most reliabe amongst the cheap ones... avoid allmakes as well cos they used to sell hubs with 55 teeth on the reluctor ring... unplug the sensor and measure resistance in it's plug with multimeter...it should be between 950-1100 Ohm if the sensor is good and if it's so then maybe you hurt the wiring beyond it somehow cos the front plugs are hardwired to the ECU no connector involved like from the rears
Funnily enough, the local landy guy who I bought the parts from, said similar. - Avoid Allmakes, britpart are ok but sometimes throw up ABS faults... :rolleyes: Though britpart do an OEM version, obviously more expensive but don't have any issues. If only I'd had the money for the better one :(

When you said unplug the connector and measure the resistance, did you mean hub to plug or plug to ECU?
 
when you said unplug the connector and measure the resistance, did you mean hub to plug or plug to ECU?
The sensor's plug which is wired to the hub...if it's that you can still buy cheap sensor and replace ony that to keep the hub
 
The sensor's plug which is wired to the hub...if it's that you can still buy cheap sensor and replace ony that to keep the hub
That's what I'm hoping. Still annoying though, that although Britpart are cheap, £70 is still a lot of money to pay for something that doesn't work properly...
 
That's what I'm hoping. Still annoying though, that although Britpart are cheap, £70 is still a lot of money to pay for something that doesn't work properly...
I agree, if it's that you can still send it back, get a refund and buy a bearmach one
 
Update- today we managed to splice the old sensor cable back together using bullet connectors and tested it in the new hub in place of the new sensor cable. It worked. 3 amigos were gone...
Put it all into place properly, straight off to the MOT garage and I now have an MOT!
Thank feck for that!
Interestingly, the nanocom was showing no voltage on the rear right sensor throughout the whole thing. Once the front left was repaired, the voltage to the 'rear right' was restored.
 
I'm glad it's sorted :cool:... and that we realised that nanocom can mix up the whole thing not just the codes as i've seen many times
 

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