MikeClem

Member
Hi all.
So my new to me Discovery 3 is treating me to some issues. Car is a 2008 HSE, 2.7td, 68k, bought from salvage, had a light front end, dash air bag and screen. Got it all fixed up, love it, looks great, drives well, feels like a tank. It was seriously lacking in power, took an age to get going. Read up and fitted an EGR delete kit, made a big difference, picks up from stationary really well now. Got an CEL light on that won't reset, I am correct in reading that I have to get the ECU coded to ignore the EGR system? Also got a engine fault coming up on the drivers info display. It does feel like it lacks power on the kick down, although this is my first Land Rover Discovery and I don't know how powerful it should be when you put your foot down. Reading the error codes I get both below:

P132B Turbo/Supercharger boos control A performance
P0489 Exhaust gas recirculation control bank A - Circuit Low

Googled both, read many an explanation but still not entirely clear about what I need to be looking into.

Can anyone recommend where to take the car for ECU / Dyno check up, I'm in Merseyside but will travel to go to the right guy.

Appreciate any info.

Thanks
 
Post 2007 you need blanks and an egr/remap, I think you can buy emulators that the egr plugs er plug into so the car thinks all is normal.
They aint quick by any sretch of the imagination, 189bhp and 2.7 tons sees to that.

Should take off from a standing start quite tidily, if you slow down but do not totally stop then they are not so keen to hitch their skirts up, add a few people/weight and its gets worse.

A remap is meant to make a big difference, and you may find the emulators are nearly the same price as the remap?

Nice to drive, take some serious abuse, the odd bit of crash damage wont faze them.

Downside is the road tax, and as they get older/worth less, the 600 quid per annum starts to become a real issue.
 
Cheers Lynall.

The car drives as per your description so I guess it's operating normally.

I've seen the emulators but am going to look into the delete remap, found this place that looks decent enough, not that far from me so I'll get in touch with them to discuss the options.

https://www.rangeroverservices.co.uk/

I really like the look of this car, it's aged really well and as said drives nice. Planning a trip to Belgium next month so going to do engine service first. Looking forward to going on a road trip in it.

Appreciate what you say about the tax and expense of running it but the car itself was cheap enough to be able to foot the running costs. Be a different story if I was paying say £400 / £500 a month for it with the tax etc on top.

I'll update with any feedback after it's been in for the ecu remap.

Thanks
 
Cheers Lynall.

The car drives as per your description so I guess it's operating normally.

I've seen the emulators but am going to look into the delete remap, found this place that looks decent enough, not that far from me so I'll get in touch with them to discuss the options.

https://www.rangeroverservices.co.uk/

I really like the look of this car, it's aged really well and as said drives nice. Planning a trip to Belgium next month so going to do engine service first. Looking forward to going on a road trip in it.

Appreciate what you say about the tax and expense of running it but the car itself was cheap enough to be able to foot the running costs. Be a different story if I was paying say £400 / £500 a month for it with the tax etc on top.

I'll update with any feedback after it's been in for the ecu remap.

Thanks


Get a good one, and they really are useful cars.
I keep watching the prices of late D4 dropping and am tempted, but ask myself what will the 25k D4 do that the 5k D3 wont?
 
Have to admit, Im tempted to sell my D2, and get a D3
Tis a tough call that one. The D3 is much nicer to drive, but much more likely to empty your wallet. Owning a D3, you need to keep a few grand contingency fund available, just in case.:eek:
 
Have to admit, Im tempted to sell my D2, and get a D3

I have had all the previous model discos, many for 5 years each, 200/300/td5 and now D3, got to say D3 country mile better car.
Buy carefully, very carefully!
 
I have had all the previous model discos, many for 5 years each, 200/300/td5 and now D3, got to say D3 country mile better car.
Buy carefully, very carefully!
I expect the D4 is better than the 3 and then the D5 is better than the 4. Thats the automotive manufacturers progression that sells new vehicles.
 
I expect the D4 is better than the 3 and then the D5 is better than the 4. Thats the automotive manufacturers progression that sells new vehicles.


Yes I woud say you are spot on, people love the D5:D
Though to be fair, I have read that people who had a 4 and got a 5, reckon the 5 is light years ahead of the 4 in many ways just not in the looks dept.

Have read several times that people who bought D3 new loved it, and when upgraded to the D4 were underwhelmed, yes it was faster/smoother etc, but not new and mould breaking like the D3 was, compared to previous live axle models.
Stupidly I keep looking at the D4s, but I feel now is not a good time to spend serious wedge on a used car.
 
Yes I woud say you are spot on, people love the D5:D
Though to be fair, I have read that people who had a 4 and got a 5, reckon the 5 is light years ahead of the 4 in many ways just not in the looks dept.

Have read several times that people who bought D3 new loved it, and when upgraded to the D4 were underwhelmed, yes it was faster/smoother etc, but not new and mould breaking like the D3 was, compared to previous live axle models.
Stupidly I keep looking at the D4s, but I feel now is not a good time to spend serious wedge on a used car.

Yup, many were undecided when the D3 was launched so was I, but with the D4 something makes it attractive from look point of view tail lights grill may be.

I nearly gave in to temptation and purchased one of the final D4s six years ago but the LR dealer wouldn't give me the part X value I wanted on my car, ok I said and for fun what about a D5... can I see one...nope we don't have one.

Anyway thinking about it now the salesman did me a favour, I didn't want a diesel or a seven seats, and I already have a very good go anywhere load carrier... a D1 :)
 
Latest update.

Got in touch with range rover services in Manchester. The guy was really helpful, told him about the CEL and engine system fault error message, we discussed options about EGR delete code and remap, unfortunately his laptop or what ever it is they plug in, got nicked, it had the required software for the D3 on it so is going to be several weeks until he can get a new one sorted at £5k a pop. EGR delete was £199, full remap inc EGR delete was £399.

Searched around some more and found these guys, again had a chat about what he can do, booked in Monday for EGR delete and remap. https://www.liverpoolremapping.com/ I'll update after it's been done.

Ordered a rear door lock mechanism, passenger side does not work, read up that its a common occurrence. Found prices of these are all over the place, some on e-bay for £18, local supplier had oem for £95 and aftermarket for £85, opted for a middle (ish) of the road for £30, again on e-bay, guess I gambling with £30 to see if I should have just paid the £95. No getting away away from you get what you pay for. Job looks a little fiddly but nothing major, got as far as ready to remove the latch itself.

Power steering fluid is on the low level marker, plan to purchase this.

https://www.smithandallan.com/produ...e-power-steering-fluid---psf-land-rover-ace-/

Next is oil & filter change, plan to use Castrol Magnetec Stop/Start A5 5 - 30w.

4 wheel alignment is happening this Friday.

Looking back over the service history it had the cam belt done at 50k, now on 68k.

Might look into the gearbox oil change and fuel filter change after the above is complete.

Attached a few images.

Considerable amount of debris found packed into the wing, including several clips and pink things that look like assembly clips.

Clear some gunk from the rad.

Installed a new parking sensor, decent bit of faff required for that, you-tube is really helpful for vids on this.

Love it...........so far.

Oh one other thing, the electronic park brake failed and fixed itself a couple of days later so I'll be prepared for that job when it finally gives up.


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Get the handbrake shoes adjusted asap, 1/2 hour job max start to finish, gets expensive if you leave it.
They need checking/adjusting annually, in practice they should not need adjusting at all, but if it has not been done for years!
 
Cheers fellas.

I'll ask the guy at the alignment place to check the bushes first. The guy is a suspension expert so should not be an issue for him.

Is checking/adjusting the park brake shoes a diy job?

Fitted the new door lock mechanism today, fiddly job but all sorted now. I think the part I got was a cheap e-bay £18 one even though I opted for the slightly more expensive one. The failed unit was the original one, so to last 12 years is not too bad I suppose.
 
Hi

plus 1 what everyone has said , ref the egrs , plus may I add

ensure the oil pump cover has the revised one fitted

also when u boot it does it go into limp mode , ref the fault code p132 , Plse let me know as some garages might try and sell u a new turbo, it might not be but depending what it does I can tell u a few things to check beforehand

hope that helps
 

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