Steve in Antrim
Active Member
Cheers. Looking at the parts lists seems they changed the drive shafts is 2001. Have checked and the drive shafts from the old gearbox (2002) still fit the new one, so must be something else in the gearbox that they changed.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The in board joints are the same. The change in 2002/3 was to the ABS pickups, which moved from joint mounted ABS rings, to bearing mounted ABS rings.
Steve in Antrim
Active Member
New clutch kit arrived but won't fit the solid flywheel fitted to the car. The engine the replacement gearbox came off had a good dual mass flywheel so will have to take another trip up to the breakers. Reckon I will need a rear diff off him too.
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Steve in Antrim
Active Member
Probably better to go back to the standard dual mass flywheel for sure.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Duel mass flywheels are to reduce torsional vibrations in the gearbox. They have little effect on the crankshaft. Crankshaft vibration is at a much higher frequency, which is why they have a damper on the front pulley.
The TD4 breaks it's crankshaft at the front bearing or crank web, which is a long way from the DMF.
Steve in Antrim
Active Member
Had a Rover 75 CDTi that broke its crank at 53k. It was an auto. Fitted a replacement engine that had come from a Freelander. Seems impossible to get new clutch plate for the solid flywheel conversion that has been fitted and have bought a decent standard clutch kit so makes sense to go back to a dual mass flywheel, especially as I know there was a good one fitted to the engine that I got the gearbox and IRD off.
Steve in Antrim
Active Member
Fitted the second hand but good condition dual mass flywheel and a new clutch. Just waiting now on a new clutch slave cylinder before I can refit the gearbox and IRD and stuff the whole lot back into the car.
I have already replaced the water pump and thermostat and aircon compressor belt. Any other recommendations for stuff to service/replace while the engine is still out?
I have already replaced the water pump and thermostat and aircon compressor belt. Any other recommendations for stuff to service/replace while the engine is still out?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Put a new contractor set in the starter? Ok, removing the starter with the engine in the vehicle isn't that difficult, but it's definitely easier to change the contacts when it's already out.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Steve in Antrim
Active Member
Dual mass flywheel fitted, new clutch and slave cylinder, replacement gearbox and IRD fitted and ready to go back into car.
Steve in Antrim
Active Member
The advantages of living in rural Northern Ireland.Nice amount of working space there! Super envious
Steve in Antrim
Active Member
Bit more progress today and one set back. Got the engine in, connected up the wiring and coolant pipes, refitted front struts. Decided to refill the cooling system to find coolant leaking from the new thermostat where the metal coolant pipes goes in. Looked at the old thermostat to find an o- ring still in it, hidden by a load of instant gasket! Then faced with the decision whether to drop the engine again or just try and get the thermostat off and fix it with the engine in the car. Decided on the latter - bleeding awkward but managed it after removing the left top engine mount and raising and lowering the engine to get better access to the bolts holding the thermostat in.
With that problem sorted onto the next one. I have misplaced one of the front subframe bolts so tomorrow's job will be scouring the shed to find where it has gone to!
Getting there slowly!
With that problem sorted onto the next one. I have misplaced one of the front subframe bolts so tomorrow's job will be scouring the shed to find where it has gone to!
Getting there slowly!
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Steve in Antrim
Active Member
Coolant leak from thermostat still not fixed so going to drop the engine again to fix it properly with a new O-ring rather than faff around trying to do it by feel with the engine in place - now just have to get my hoist back from the mate I lent it to!
Steve in Antrim
Active Member
Got my hoist back from my mate so engine dropped again to fix the thermostat coolant leak - lot of work to replace one O-ring!
Steve in Antrim
Active Member
Progressing nicely now, front end all back together and it runs. Original bumper back on.
Now to deal with the rear lift kit. No way the rear brake hoses were going to separate without breaking something so decided just to cut open the holes they go through in the plate on each rear shock. Can't see any good reason why it was a closed hole and not just an open slot like on the front shocks in the first place!
Lot of surface rust under the rear wheel arch liners so decided to sort that while I had it apart with some k-rust and silver hammerite:-
Now to deal with the rear lift kit. No way the rear brake hoses were going to separate without breaking something so decided just to cut open the holes they go through in the plate on each rear shock. Can't see any good reason why it was a closed hole and not just an open slot like on the front shocks in the first place!
Lot of surface rust under the rear wheel arch liners so decided to sort that while I had it apart with some k-rust and silver hammerite:-
