Have you traced all the ABS sensor leads from the wheels to their connectors under the bonnet?
Do you have the 3 amigos lights on?
Do you have the 3 amigos lights on?
Rghj2
Member
The ABS sensors on all 4 wheels are connected and working properly. I fixed the three amigos about 4 months ago. I don’t have an ABS light on and this plug has been sitting in the engine compartment for a couple of years. There doesn’t seem to be any issues. I’ve tried to figure out where it goes a few times and have forgotten about it because I couldn’t find anywhere for it to go. I’ve attached a couple more pics to show it, it just sits there. It’s getting dark here, I had to shine a flashlight.
Attachments
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Aha!
Brake pad low, warning light maybe? since it is in the same loom as it were?
There is a faint chance it is part of the loom but doesn't connect to anything on your model, unless you have an ES which I believe has all the bells and whistles.
Honestly out of ideas and as you say not a problem, so, "if it ain't bust, don't fix it"!!
Rghj2
Member
I just replaced the rear drivers side wheel hub and rear brake pads, I replaced the front brake pads last year. My brakes work great. It does come out of the same loom and the wire extends about 6 inches from the end of the loom. So, there’s only so many places to look, I have wondered if the plug is for a higher end model.
I thought if I posted it here at some point someone will see it and recognize it, reply and the mystery will be solved.
thank you for your efforts, they are greatly appreciated.
I thought if I posted it here at some point someone will see it and recognize it, reply and the mystery will be solved.
thank you for your efforts, they are greatly appreciated.
Defender91
Active Member
I've got an ES and it's connected, think this is the one you mean?
Its connected to something by the n/s front caliper.
Its connected to something by the n/s front caliper.
Defender91
Active Member
It runs through a grommet in the inner wing a few inches after the connection,then follows the brake flexi.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
HI, dont bother with it as long as the ABS is faultless, some modells(up to 2001 IIRC) came out with that plug from factory while the sensor is harwired to the ECU or the previous owher fitted a long lead sensor and bypassed it, i think you'll find that if you follow the wire of the sensor from the hub you's see that it dosent have a connector, the problem will be when you'll want to change the hub which will come with a short lead sensor with plug.
He's absolutely right. I've just been out to look at mine (2000 TD5 GS) and it deffo IS the hub sensor ABS lead connector.
So your's MUST be wired in directly/bypassed in some way.
Rghj2
Member
Thank you, That’s good to know regarding the length of the ABS. I’ve been considering replacement of the remaining three.
Rghj2
Member
I took a look this morning and the ABS wire coming off the drivers side wheel hub (US side) comes through the wheel well and back through the firewall. So I will assume that it’s been bypassed and hard wired. When I replace the wheel hub, I’ll use a T connector on the wiring.
Thank you
Thank you
NPG
Well-Known Member
The likelihood is that the original wiring was cut a few inches away from the SLABS connector and the extended lead soldered in. Even if you need extended ABS sensor leads, you can buy these with the female connector that will just plug in to the harness, without the need to sever any wiring. If I were you, I will carefully resolder the original wiring going into the SLABS and use the connector that you have in the engine bay. Note that the ABS wiring uses twisted pair as the sinusoidal analogue signal is quite sensitive to EMI and cable losses. Inserting a T-connector could cause an unbalance in the noise cancellation properties and alter the impedance of the wiring which would affect the signal quality received by the SLABS.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Don't use T connector as @NPG said, the easy way is to cut the original sensor wire which goes to the ECU as to reach the plug and cut near the plug as well then solder them together as when you fit a new hub you can connect the new sensor there.
Rghj2
Member
I’m glad I started this, I will make sure to not use a T connector. This raises a question for me. Should I decide to replace the other wheel hubs and ABS sensors (using the reasoning that, one wheel hub went bad, the others can’t be far behind) can I put a volt meter on it to make sure it’s not faulty and if it looks good just re use it?
I can remove the new ABS from the new wheel hub and attach the old ABS and save the ABS I removed in case I need to replace it, then I can cut and solder the new one in. I say this because I have seen my skills at soldering, and they are not that good.
I can remove the new ABS from the new wheel hub and attach the old ABS and save the ABS I removed in case I need to replace it, then I can cut and solder the new one in. I say this because I have seen my skills at soldering, and they are not that good.
Technically the sensor itself shouldn't wear as there is no physical contact with anything, other than where it is mounted. What causes the problem is when the bearing wears and the gap between the sensor and the reluctor ring changes. If it is working before you remove it, I don't think a voltage test will show anything.
If you remove the old sensor and replace it in the hole the one came out of on the new hub, why would you need to do any cutting and soldering?
Am I missing something?
But fitting a sensor back in has proved a problem for some on here. It's getting the air gap exactly right that seems to be the problem.
