You can try pressing security learn in the EDC utilities section. Turn ignition off then back on and engine should start. If it works will save a lot of buggering about.

Doesn't work. Loss of sync is in my How To. Should be pretty bullet-proof. I disabled most of the security on mine as well.

As for the gearbox. Sounds plausible. Presumably it would need a temperature sensor somewhere? If so that is probably in the Nanocom gearbox screen? Got a manual box so never looked.
 
Doesn't work. Loss of sync is in my How To. Should be pretty bullet-proof. I disabled most of the security on mine as well.

As for the gearbox. Sounds plausible. Presumably it would need a temperature sensor somewhere? If so that is probably in the Nanocom gearbox screen? Got a manual box so never looked.

Certainly didn't work on my early version Nanocom, i got one of the assessment versions before they were on sale to the public. But thought BBS would have sorted that by now. Security learn should just work like a Syncmate. But haven't tried it since so will have to take your word for it.
 
Certainly didn't work on my early version Nanocom, i got one of the assessment versions before they were on sale to the public. But thought BBS would have sorted that by now. Security learn should just work like a Syncmate. But haven't tried it since so will have to take your word for it.

Doesn't work on mine. Not unless they fixed it on the last upgrade.
 
Doesn't work on mine. Not unless they fixed it on the last upgrade.
I have a Nanocom an FRC and a Syncmate so would not use the Nanocom to sync the car generally unless i don't have the Syncmate with me. It's much easier and quicker with the Syncmate. Nanocom and Syncmate will work on any diesel. FCR is vin locked so only works on my car. When i got FCR there was no Nanocom only MSV2 which was mega bucks, it served a purpose but is now fully redundant.
 
Since I disabled the passive immobilisation or whatever I could find in the BECM and replaced the RF receiver it has never gone out of sync. Could be famous last words!
 
Since I disabled the passive immobilisation or whatever I could find in the BECM and replaced the RF receiver it has never gone out of sync. Could be famous last words!

You can disable immobiliser and EKA but you can't disable EMS code. Some think EMS code is linked to immobiliser it is not. When engine is immobilised it cannot be turned over, when it is out of sync it will turn over but will not start. Immobiliser and EMS code are different animals. And not linked in any way.
 
You can disable immobiliser and EKA but you can't disable EMS code. Some think EMS code is linked to immobiliser it is not. When engine is immobilised it cannot be turned over, when it is out of sync it will turn over but will not start. Immobiliser and EMS code are different animals. And not linked in any way.

No but when the missus was dumped in town it wasn't the sync but the passive immobilisation that messed her up, hence disabling it. I think the RF receiver stopped the sync issue.
 
No but when the missus was dumped in town it wasn't the sync but the passive immobilisation that messed her up, hence disabling it. I think the RF receiver stopped the sync issue.

Only goes out of sync when the BECM has a glitch for some reason and scrambles the EMS code. The battery suddenly dying whilst on the car can certainly do that as i know from experience.
 
Only goes out of sync when the BECM has a glitch for some reason and scrambles the EMS code. The battery suddenly dying whilst on the car can certainly do that as i know from experience.

Could be. The battery was certainly draining!
 
Well it's not out of sync all codes match cranking over strong so started back tracking for fuel prob no fuel at fip went to fuel filter housing nothing out of there on either side
 
Well it's not out of sync all codes match cranking over strong so started back tracking for fuel prob no fuel at fip went to fuel filter housing nothing out of there on either side

Lift pump maybe knackered then. First check relay 12 and fuse 39. If good remove relay 12 and run a positive from battery to pin 5 on relay 12 socket, the one that is counter in orientation to the other three. If lift pump is good it should run and you should see fuel going along clear pipe. If it does not run and if it's a genuine lift pump they have a NRV in them. If that that is the case the injection pump sometimes cannot suck past it and you get no fuel. Change the lift pump.
 
The I tank pump was gummed up to so tank dropped and will swap that one out for my new spare that I bought for my last p38
 

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