sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Seems quite a mess there, the wire colours should match as in the diagram though
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
On the D2 is relay R9 engine bay fusebox and it should work even thoug for D2 the p/n is YWB101300 so if this matches better get one of these for the fender too, it has wider legs
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Then use the R3 yellow, that's the headlamp wash on D2... though try if R9 fits in the fender's socket or not cos if it does with those bigger terminals maybe that was the problem cos the other didnt make good contact
Tried R3 and results the same. Multimeter reading here matches Nanocom reading - presumably nothing is getting the full voltage?
Would it be safe to run a temporary lead from battery + to this location as a test or is there a better way of testing ?
Would it be safe to run a temporary lead from battery + to this location as a test or is there a better way of testing ?
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sierrafery
Well-Known Member
that's good enough for test, no worries just use thick cable
Used a bit of welding cable - voltage readings all match (pretty much) between Nanocom, battery and 12v socket. Not sure what could cause a drop between the battery and the fusebox but will investigate. Whether this has anything to do with the rough starting or not I've no idea but if the ECU is not getting proper consistent voltage it's not going to help I'm sure....
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I'm also 100% sure about that
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
The battery positive feed goes directly to the under-seat fusebox on a thick brown wire
Does this cable end have a name? Can not find anything like it anywhere!
Strangely, the Nanocom, 12v socket and direct battery readings are all more or less the same with the engine off/ignition on, it is only when the engine is running that the direct battery voltage shows 14.5v and the 12v socket, Nanocom and fusebox all read 12-13v.
Strangely, the Nanocom, 12v socket and direct battery readings are all more or less the same with the engine off/ignition on, it is only when the engine is running that the direct battery voltage shows 14.5v and the 12v socket, Nanocom and fusebox all read 12-13v.
Cannot find this cable anywhere! Could it be non-standard?
Also I have had a call from Merlin diesels who are testing my original injectors. It was only the lady in the office but apparently the nozzles are "bloomed" - anyone know what that means in laymans terms ?
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sierrafery
Well-Known Member
It would trigger a fault code only for open or short circuit , as long as it reads something no fault code but it can be a cause of black smoke
Also an update on the injector testing :
"Your injectors have now finished on test. They are all fuelling ok apart from one which is .7 of a CC down. However, the engineer would recommend that you change all five as the nozzles have warped. We feel these units would not seat correctly and you would carry on with the smoking issues."
Not sure what to make of that, as I am having the same issues with a second set of injectors ?
"Your injectors have now finished on test. They are all fuelling ok apart from one which is .7 of a CC down. However, the engineer would recommend that you change all five as the nozzles have warped. We feel these units would not seat correctly and you would carry on with the smoking issues."
Not sure what to make of that, as I am having the same issues with a second set of injectors ?
Ok thanks, I thought it was meant to drop slightly as the revs increase.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
yes it shoud drop under load
Then I think it is dead. Not sure if you remember but we solved a problem a few months ago where the incorrect sensor had been used - we lashed this one on but didn't install it to the air box! I'll get a new one and fit it in the air box.
I'm not sure what to make of the injector situation.
