ozzyboydeano
Well-Known Member
it is running differently as there should be no white smoke ..i am trying to relate to this situation as mine is intermittent
ozzyboydeano
Well-Known Member
on the flip side i also had my td5 to loose complete compression for a short period of time ..starting motor whizzed over engine faster than normal .i may also have hydraulic lifter issues this then can result to compression issues
I meant differently than to before I changed the FPR - no difference at all
ozzyboydeano
Well-Known Member
i once had my td5 to loose compression for a short period of time ..engine whizzed over faster than normal on the starter ..i even sprayed the engine down the air intake it wouldn't start
may the lifters be slightly sticking or control valve i dont know maybe wrong grade of oil
may the lifters be slightly sticking or control valve i dont know maybe wrong grade of oil
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Here is the latest Nanocom readings : https://www.dropbox.com/s/y34fowj1xw22kma/Boost Pressure Test 19032018.CSV?dl=0 . Taken whilst adjusting the wastegate which seems to have been overshortened...
Results still seem to be all over the place despite running an earth direct from the battery to the ECU earth. Air Inlet Temp, Coolant Temp and Fuel Temp Readings seem strange, I always thought the fuel temp roughly followed the coolant temp but a bit less. There's also a few spikes which I don't understand!
Results still seem to be all over the place despite running an earth direct from the battery to the ECU earth. Air Inlet Temp, Coolant Temp and Fuel Temp Readings seem strange, I always thought the fuel temp roughly followed the coolant temp but a bit less. There's also a few spikes which I don't understand!
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Some spikes which are illogical are happening from time to time on all, they are software glitches dont bother with them, otherwise the readings are quite OK, the difference between the ECT and FT is a bit more than normal but if your radiator is clean it might not be an issue, the IAT usually drops under heavy boost that's not an issue unless it's lower than what the outside temp was then.... what i observed as being really suspect is the battery voltage cos there are cases when it drops to 12.. or even below with engine running and if that's caused by the rectifier being a pn junction shot in it there is an AC component in the feed which can mix up things in the ECU, i'd say better fix that alternator cos it's deffinitely not OK, the voltage with engine running should not drop below 13V whatsoever... eventually fit a new Bosch FT sensor to rule it out
The alternator is fine, with a direct reading off the battery it is sitting steady at 14.5v, it seems the Nanocom is having a problem seeing it hence the extra earth wire which has made some difference but not much. Perhaps I need to try and divert the extra earth through the OBD socket - will be a pain as there is a lot of wiring in my cubby box !
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sierrafery
Well-Known Member
It is a problem with the ECU main feed then, most likely a wiring issue or a problem within the fusebox... when it comes to voltage reading it's no software glitch cos it's a direct 'transfer" between the ECU and nanocom ...here's a list with normal readings
Many thanks that's a handy list. Presumably it will be in Rave somewhere showing which wires to check on the red ECU plug ? It is (I believe) the original loom, it is possible it has deteriorated in 18 years. I did look for a part number a while ago but there were so many variations I never did find the one I needed
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
If you have a new relay replace the main relay first cos that's common to make tricks, eventually make sure it has good contacts in the socket... the main feeds for the ECU are in the black plug pins 2, 22, 27(brown/orange wires) all through the main relay and ignition feed from fuse F12 interior fusebox to pin 33 (white/green)...
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Pin 33 on the red plug is the high/low switch's input, no feed inputs to the red plug, the feeds and earths are all to the black plug
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
C0658 means black plug, the red plug is C0158, i cropped the relevant part for you:
With the ignition off the Nanocom (if this is the same as what the ECU sees) is about 0.1v under reading which I would say is close enough, with the engine running it is over 1.5v under reading and fluctuates far more than the direct reading. I cannot find the part number for the main relay but mine does not have LR on it anywhere (just WEHRLE 20 201 100A 12V /20/30A Made in Italy 09/09". When I find it I will order one.
edit: I am only assuming this is the main relay as nothing works with it unplugged!
edit: I am only assuming this is the main relay as nothing works with it unplugged!
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sierrafery
Well-Known Member
The main relay for engine management should be yellow YWB000150 relay, C0063
Looks like it's been replaced with a generic one. I will get a proper one, whether this will make any difference I have no idea!
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
The fact is that the nanocom reading should match a multimeter reading on the battery, slightly lower is normal but those fluctuations and drops below 13 are not
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
That's cos the middle pin which is on your's is not used, it's the N/C contact(87A) which if you watch the diagram is useless, somebody fitted the wrong relay there if that's really the main relay you have in hand
