I don’t have a clue with elecktrickery, Datatek/Wammers are the guys for that.

I don’t have liftpump (not working or MIA). Mine still starts on the button.

1) Could be pipe from tank to filter blocked - gentle blow with air hose maybe
2) could be air in system from working on it (I also never had issue even with no pump and stripping things off like injectors/clear pipe)
3) have you checked or renewed spill pipes at all - these are main culprit 90% of time.
4) what readings are you getting from Nanocom (EDC menu)
 
RangeRoller dt said:
I don’t have a clue with elecktrickery, Datatek/Wammers are the guys for that.

I don’t have liftpump (not working or MIA). Mine still starts on the button.

1) Could be pipe from tank to filter blocked - gentle blow with air hose maybe
2) could be air in system from working on it (I also never had issue even with no pump and stripping things off like injectors/clear pipe)
3) have you checked or renewed spill pipes at all - these are main culprit 90% of time.
4) what readings are you getting from Nanocom (EDC menu)
Click to expand...
Well currently it won't communicate as I've left a nearly dead battery in while the other charges. I'll leave it until after work tomorrow so it's got some real life in it. And look through it. Could air in the system cause the intank pump to not come on then? I just need to test the pump as this is more than likely the culprit I'm just baffled by the intermittent failure. Like I say its 100 percent the in tank pump not pushing anything up. It doesn't make any noise at all and that's with the rear seat lifted and the plate were hole has previously been cut. So it's easy for me to test the pump I just need the battery charged. I have read about some kid of communication failure between glow plug relay and the fuel relay. But they do click on and light does come on in dash. But even with relay bridged it doesn't start the in tank pump. So my guess is that it's a continuity fault in the wiring or something shorting out prior to the pump. I need to get the battery in when fully charged and get the multi meter out and put a feed to the pump to see if I'm right or not really. I just want to rule the pump out for sure before I buy one as I k ow they're cheap but I want a genuine one so it's more like 250 quid. After what I've spent already I'm being a bit hasty on the spending as I'm hoping it's something simple. But who knows. I'll keep you updated once the batts charged and got back out there. Thanks again
 
Battery drain could be RF interference. Check which EF receiver you have. Or possibly dicky diode on alternator. That sometimes leaves lift pump running constantly. Cannot remember which fuse is the lift pump, possibly 39?
 
Could check for parasitic battery drain. Eric the car guy on You Tube has a video How To.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Could check for parasitic battery drain. Eric the car guy on You Tube has a video How To.
Click to expand...
I'll look into it. Thank you. Yes it's fuse 39 but to be honest like RangeRoller previously mentioned it's more than likely the constant cranking and heating of plugs and locks and unlocks I've been doing trying to get the intank pump to fire up. I'm sure it's the wiring to the pump rather than pump but I can't do any tests until the batts fully charged
 
Go VDO if you get new pump, it does need to be done

As I mentioned, Mine starts on the button and I have zero pump, won’t stop it from starting unless it’s really hot engine.

Give battery good few days first :)

Do you have an old hot start or power box etc fitted? Fault with either may cause your fuelling issue
 
Rangeroverbass said:
Well currently it won't communicate as I've left a nearly dead battery in while the other charges. I'll leave it until after work tomorrow so it's got some real life in it. And look through it. Could air in the system cause the intank pump to not come on then? I just need to test the pump as this is more than likely the culprit I'm just baffled by the intermittent failure. Like I say its 100 percent the in tank pump not pushing anything up. It doesn't make any noise at all and that's with the rear seat lifted and the plate were hole has previously been cut. So it's easy for me to test the pump I just need the battery charged. I have read about some kid of communication failure between glow plug relay and the fuel relay. But they do click on and light does come on in dash. But even with relay bridged it doesn't start the in tank pump. So my guess is that it's a continuity fault in the wiring or something shorting out prior to the pump. I need to get the battery in when fully charged and get the multi meter out and put a feed to the pump to see if I'm right or not really. I just want to rule the pump out for sure before I buy one as I k ow they're cheap but I want a genuine one so it's more like 250 quid. After what I've spent already I'm being a bit hasty on the spending as I'm hoping it's something simple. But who knows. I'll keep you updated once the batts charged and got back out there. Thanks again
Click to expand...
No need to pay £250 for a pump, a VDO pump at half that price is the same thing as OEM.
Problems with the connector at the pump are not unknown.
A 21 watt 12 volt bulb is better for checking for power at the pump than a meter. A meter will show voltage even with a partial open circuit as it draws no current.
 
Datatek said:
No need to pay £250 for a pump, a VDO pump at half that price is the same thing as OEM.
Problems with the connector at the pump are not unknown.
A 21 watt 12 volt bulb is better for checking for power at the pump than a meter. A meter will show voltage even with a partial open circuit as it draws no current.
Click to expand...
 
Just the info I was after. Thanks. I'm going to put the newly charged battery in and try the security learn. I think it could be to do with this as it's had so. Much changed lately. Hopefully I'm right.
 
Thank you to all involved. I powered the old pump remotely and it was dead. Motor must of got stuck. Next day 12v applied freed it up for the night then obviously died. My mechanic said its not uncommon for a pump to be intermittent as it breaks down so I bit the bullet and got a pump and fitted it today. Fuel straight up past the filter. Bled the clear pip at the union. Still wouldn't start. Went back through nanocom. Had to change the setting for trip computer and change the engine from early edc to late edc and it fired straight up. Thanks to everyone involved. What a great forumn. Also I have the nanocom for edc located in Southampton. If I can return the favour to anyone else I'd love to help. Many thanks.
 
Rangeroverbass said:
Thank you to all involved. I powered the old pump remotely and it was dead. Motor must of got stuck. Next day 12v applied freed it up for the night then obviously died. My mechanic said its not uncommon for a pump to be intermittent as it breaks down so I bit the bullet and got a pump and fitted it today. Fuel straight up past the filter. Bled the clear pip at the union. Still wouldn't start. Went back through nanocom. Had to change the setting for trip computer and change the engine from early edc to late edc and it fired straight up. Thanks to everyone involved. What a great forumn. Also I have the nanocom for edc located in Southampton. If I can return the favour to anyone else I'd love to help. Many thanks.
Click to expand...

Who set it to early EDC? No P38 is early EDC. If it had been set to early that is why it wouldn't start. Having a Nanocom is one thing knowing how to use it is a bit more complicated. :D:D
 
wammers said:
Who set it to early EDC? No P38 is early EDC. If it had been set to early that is why it wouldn't start.
Click to expand...
Probably me to be honest trying to get it running previously tried it because I changed the engine. That was why it wouldn't start after I changed the pump. That's not why the pump wouldn't prime. It was dead. It primed and then I changed it.to start it. Thanks for your help though bud.
 
Rangeroverbass said:
Probably me to be honest trying to get it running previously tried it because I changed the engine. That was why it wouldn't start after I changed the pump. That's not why the pump wouldn't prime. It was dead. It primed and then I changed it.to start it. Thanks for your help though bud.
Click to expand...

Bit of advice about Nanocom ALWAYS jot down previous values of any changes made.
 
Rangeroverbass said:
Yes great advice I had noticed people talk of this. So I had taken pictures for reference this is how I realised I went wrong. :)
Click to expand...

It will take time to get used to all the various functions. Believe me i know, i got my Nanocom as an appraisal unit before they were on sale to the general public. Will be going shortly as lad has just bought me a L322. So different diag needed.
 
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