dubloman · Friday at 16:47

Hi

I need someone with a nanocom for my diesel who lives in Preston and is prepared to come to me to reset my EAS system. I really need it as I'm a disabled military veteran and the car is my independence.

I have a p38 diesel 1997 auto and the Eas has thrown up a problem.

I have tried to connect my laptop but I'm not getting a stable connection.

My diagnostic fuse is OK, my compressor works when I loop the relay.

It has worked a few hours before but on the journey home (new years day night) it dropped on the motorway and I have the EAS fault and 35 mph max display.

Can anyone come to my aid

THANKS

pwood999 · Friday at 16:51

Any Nanocom will do for the EAS and all ECU's except engine. It's only the engine ECU that requires the correct license.

https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/v...&ll=53.77795250799876,-2.588856989943258&z=10

Zoom in on Preston / Blackburn. There two guys near Blackburn that have Nanocom

pwood999 · Friday at 16:53

Datatek · Friday at 17:09

dubloman said:
Hi

I need someone with a nanocom for my diesel who lives in Preston and is prepared to come to me to reset my EAS system. I really need it as I'm a disabled military veteran and the car is my independence.

I have a p38 diesel 1997 auto and the Eas has thrown up a problem.

I have tried to connect my laptop but I'm not getting a stable connection.

My diagnostic fuse is OK, my compressor works when I loop the relay.

It has worked a few hours before but on the journey home (new years day night) it dropped on the motorway and I have the EAS fault and 35 mph max display.

Can anyone come to my aid

THANKS

Are you trying to connect the EAS suite from RSW? If so and you cannot get a stable connection, it's possible that there is corrosion in the OBD connector, a common problem.

dubloman · Friday at 17:22

Thanks for your messages.

Just an update as I should have said. The obd connection is clean and is not corroded that I can see as I replaced it not so long ago.

I will look at the map and see if I can connect with the two guys.

I didn't know about the fact that any work with the eas system....good to know thanks.

I will however take a good look at the plug just to make totally sure it's not corroded anywhere.

Thanks

ovalandrover · Friday at 21:55

The nanacom has to have the P38 code but dosent matter what engine is coded in

dubloman · Friday at 22:27

Brilliant

Thanks

Will any other devices do the same as the nanocom

dubloman · Friday at 23:00

Update on the issue of my p38.

I've managed to sort it myself.

I feel a bit embarrassed, I picked up the wrong obd11 cable and continued to try and sort the problem with the wrong cable.

I only realised my massive c*** *p when I suspected the cable and started to look for another to then find i had the correct cable in a box and it had 2 cables, I picked the wrong one.

Positive note is i have sorted it but a lesson for others is that not all cables will do the job on a p38.

Thanks for everyone's help.

If i can help anyone close to me with the eas problem I can now sort it.

Thanks

Mark Piercy · Friday at 23:13

Did you find out what it was?

Rubberknees · Saturday at 08:40

Takes a big man to put his hand up and admit his mistake. Well done

Grrrrrr · Saturday at 18:59

dubloman said:
Hi

I need someone with a nanocom for my diesel who lives in Preston and is prepared to come to me to reset my EAS system. I really need it as I'm a disabled military veteran and the car is my independence.

I have a p38 diesel 1997 auto and the Eas has thrown up a problem.

I have tried to connect my laptop but I'm not getting a stable connection.

My diagnostic fuse is OK, my compressor works when I loop the relay.

It has worked a few hours before but on the journey home (new years day night) it dropped on the motorway and I have the EAS fault and 35 mph max display.

Can anyone come to my aid

THANKS

I don't know if Wammer's son got his diag and Rangie after he died? Someone on here might know. @mozz, maybe?

dubloman · Tuesday at 00:23

Thanks for the comments

I'm not here to bull anyone and if by highlighting my mistakes I help someone else then they learn from my c*** up.

I've managed to id the problem. The RR sensor says signal incorrect. I believe i have to unplug plug c117 and then rectify the sensor and then plug it back in again.

Where is the plug c117, I assume it is on the becm. Plus is this the correct procedure and what issues could I find with the RR eas sensor.

Advice is appreciated

Thanks

Mark Piercy · Tuesday at 05:53

There is a plug directly on the sensor itself. Has the sensor been replaced just recently as it can be positioned with the leg of the sensor in the wrong direction quite easily done (l322 versions) . Unless it's broken.

scoots · Tuesday at 06:19

Darren m on here if he's still about....from leyland has helped me out before

pwood999 · Tuesday at 10:37

C117 is the main EAS ECU connector

dubloman · Tuesday at 17:23

No the sensor has not been replaced but I did move too many floor tiles in the back and I believe it could have bent the bracket (not yet looked) as I'm an old disabled military veteran and need dry weather as I'm doing it outside.

Is the procedure correct

Unplug the c117 socket fix the sensor and then plug it back in

Or

Just adjust the sensor and reset the eas system

Please let me know the correct procedure

Then I can do the measurements and set it up correctly

Thanks in advance

pwood999 · Tuesday at 18:57

No need to unplug C117. Do whatever you need to do on the sensor. If it's bent, probably best to take it off & straighten the arm(s) carefully without damaging the sensor itself.

Then clean the connectors, remount & plug it back in.

Mark Piercy · Tuesday at 19:03

There's no need to bend the sensor arm unless it was that loaded it bottomed out and physically damaged it.
If so then you may be needing the other side aswell??
Unplug the sensor at the sensor and replace if needs be.
Get yourself a dvm/multi meter and set to ohms.
Using two of the three pins on the sensor... The two outer ones irc??
Very slowly sweep the arm of the sensor while watching the meter to see if the figures jump or bug out.
A smooth change in ohms should be seen on a good sensor.

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