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Taximan2011

New Member
Had book symbol on hevac so changed blend motors dash out and rebuild still got book symbol. Borrowed nanocom off good guy dogsbody. Ok now it gives the following error message.
(55) DISTRIBUTION DOOR MOTOR STALLED

Does anyone know the specifics of code 55 is that the flaps for the top of the 3 motors ?
Could it be that when I fitted motors the position of flap was incorrect aligned to new motor position
 
Have you tried using the calibration feature on the Nanocom to see if it's something that simple? Failing that could the actual flap be stuck?
 
Taximan2011 said:
Had book symbol on hevac so changed blend motors dash out and rebuild still got book symbol. Borrowed nanocom off good guy dogsbody. Ok now it gives the following error message.
(55) DISTRIBUTION DOOR MOTOR STALLED

Does anyone know the specifics of code 55 is that the flaps for the top of the 3 motors ?
Could it be that when I fitted motors the position of flap was incorrect aligned to new motor position
Click to expand...

Did you check for full and free movement when you had the motor off? If you didn't you were a silly lad. You cannot put the motor back in the wrong place. But you can assemble the quadrant wrongly if you had that off.
 
I tried the calibration mode and I heard noises of movement but dash was rebuilt so couldn't see if flap was stuck. Dismantling it is then. Any procedure on freeing stuck flaps ??
 
Taximan2011 said:
I tried the calibration mode and I heard noises of movement but dash was rebuilt so couldn't see if flap was stuck. Dismantling it is then. Any procedure on freeing stuck flaps ??
Click to expand...

The quadrant that the motor drives operates three flaps. Two driven by gears and one via an slot in arm. If you pull the quadrant (it was that seized on mine) check for full and free on both gears. One to front of car is not usually a problem, it's the one to the rear of the heater that usually tightens up. (If it's tight) A bit of spray grease down the back of the gear works wonders. Then work it until free. Quadrant was a bitch to free off even with heater out of car. Had to carefully scrape plastic from inside it with a sharp blade. When you put it back you will note a dot on it. Full anticlockwise travel and dot must line up with dot on rearmost gear L/H one looking from side of heater. Full clockwise travel dot must line up with dot on front gear R/H one looking from side of heater. Other flap never gives trouble and is easy to engage. Whatever you do DON'T turn ignition on with motor removed from heater.
 
Why shouldn't I turn ignition on with motor removed I was planning on plugging blend motors into hevac ecu loose Anc testing each motor by running calibration on nanocom
 
Taximan2011 said:
Why shouldn't I turn ignition on with motor removed I was planning on plugging blend motors into hevac ecu loose Anc testing each motor by running calibration on nanocom
Click to expand...

Because i told you not to, try it and see what happens. If you can afford new blend motors. How do you do a calibration when the motor does not know when to stop?
 
Last edited:
How did I go calibration test. I pressed the button on nanocom in hevac utilities that said calibrate motors and flaps. Or from memory I think that's what it said
 
Taximan2011 said:
How did I go calibration test. I pressed the button on nanocom in hevac utilities that said calibrate motors and flaps. Or from memory I think that's what it said
Click to expand...

You can't do a calibration unless the motors are coupled to the flaps. The calibration is all about the flaps being settled at their maximum deflection in either direction. It is done to make up for any crushing of the foam seals over time. So flaps are fully sealed and on their stops both ways. Full deflection one way is 0% full deflection the other way is 100%. The motor stalls at these positions as it comes under load. The ECU memorises these positions and then uses them as a reference to determine intermediate positions. If you try this with motors disconnected from flaps the motor will run to it's maximum travel and can damage the internals. Even if no damage occurs you would have to strip the motors and set them in their start position with flat on drive parallel with length of motor case as they come to you when new. Then fit to flaps then do calibration. You have been warned.
 
Ok dash out.
When I turn ignition on the top flaps cycle through an open and close and open cycle. Then the air blows. If I try the calibrate motors and flaps. Both side motors cycle through open and close BUT no movement from top flaps. Tried all buttons nothing when I try using nanocom to force distribution motors no matter what % I set it to the out figure always changes whilst the in figure just stays at 81 %.
Left and right force correctly.
If I check for faults I get
(46) Aspiration (in car)
( Fault type = current )

And

(55) door motor stalled

The Only time I can get top flaps to drive is to turn the ignition off and on again.
 
Taximan2011 said:
Could it be faulty hevac ecu ??
Click to expand...

Aspirator is the little motor and fan used to sample air in cabin. Located just below the clock. Did you check for full and free movement of quadrant and flap gears? They should turn relatively easily by hand with motor removed. With no binding.
 
Taximan2011 said:
Yes flaps moved free and they power move when ignition cycled
Click to expand...
Clear the aspirator motor and see what happens. If it's stalled due to fluff collecting and the HEVAC knows that, then it may not operate the flaps properly. Can be cleared by gently blowing with an air line or you could try with a vacuum cleaner. Only a guess, but always clear the easy/obvious faults before you go looking deeper.
 
Taximan2011 said:
Yes flaps moved free and they power move when ignition cycled
Click to expand...

That is when you get your problem. They always move when ignition is switched on as Hevac does it's checks. Something is stalling the distribution flaps. Did you run motors disconnected from flaps? If so that could be your problem. The Hevac has remembered the full travel of the motor, which it does not have when connected to flaps. So it thinks it is stalled when flaps close. Try disconnecting Hevac from power for a couple of hours or so until it loses it's memory. Then reconnect and see what you get.
 
Datatek said:
Clear the aspirator motor and see what happens. If it's stalled due to fluff collecting and the HEVAC knows that, then it may not operate the flaps properly. Can be cleared by gently blowing with an air line or you could try with a vacuum cleaner. Only a guess, but always clear the easy/obvious faults before you go looking deeper.
Click to expand...

Can't see aspirator effecting flap movement Keith.
 
The problem was pre my ownership so someone else may have run off flaps but I havnt. Hevac has been disconnected for 24 hrs before reconnected and testing motors connected before putting dash back on.
 
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