good start mate, what about the cam break in procedure though? should be kept between 2 and 3 k for 20 mins upon very first start

Done that on first start up, all run in according to the papers. Just been leaving it to run at idle for a fair while each day. Will be driven on the road first time on tuesday, got MOT booked and insurance sorted :)
 
what gets me is the rear oil seal should not exceed 900 rpm for the first run, the cam has to be between 2 and 3 k for 20 mins on first run and the rings cant exceed 2.5k for the first 500 miles- not that easy to match all that while also timing and doing the carb in my case ffs!
 
what gets me is the rear oil seal should not exceed 900 rpm for the first run, the cam has to be between 2 and 3 k for 20 mins on first run and the rings cant exceed 2.5k for the first 500 miles- not that easy to match all that while also timing and doing the carb in my case ffs!

You just have to balance out i guess don't go over 2.5k, tbh i ran my cam in at just under 2000rpm for 20mins, then let it sit at idle for 45 or so mins
 
that enough, well we wont know for a year or so lol im gonna try and saty at 2 -2.5k

we shall see if the carby cooperates!
 
Arghhhh! Just gone and tidy the beast all up for MOT. Was doing my pre checks
1) is it clean n tidy
2) seatbelts
3) lights/horn
4) wipers
5) washer....... Washers.......
No front washers!!! The pump has packed in :( had a spare from the disco i broke, unfortunately plastic had gone brittle and output pipe shattered :( so need to see if local motor factors has any in stock tomorrow, fingers crossed!!!!
But apart from that cant see any reason for it to fail, or if it does only on silly little thing hopefully!
 
Arghhhh! Just gone and tidy the beast all up for MOT. Was doing my pre checks
1) is it clean n tidy
2) seatbelts
3) lights/horn
4) wipers
5) washer....... Washers.......
No front washers!!! The pump has packed in :( had a spare from the disco i broke, unfortunately plastic had gone brittle and output pipe shattered :( so need to see if local motor factors has any in stock tomorrow, fingers crossed!!!!
But apart from that cant see any reason for it to fail, or if it does only on silly little thing hopefully!

Just swap the rear pump for the front one.
 
Right took it on a 20mile drive this evening, then to get home n hear a nocking noise :( not when revving only when returning from revs to idle, sounded like something bouncing about in the sump, but drove really well :s so parked it up on my drive, took the sump off and didn't find anything loose or anything that had movement :s, the sump bolts seemed to have worked them selves loose so wondering if it could have been the sump vibrating or maybe torque convertor, going to check levels in gear box tomorrow and refit sump. Pray to god it was one of those 2 options if not i give up on the car :)
 
Doesnt sound good whatever it was :( going to put all back together this evening and then check gear box oil n see whats what
 
Dammmmmmm that does not sound good. Have you renewed small ends? How does it sound like, is it after the rev and the engine is slowing down then you hear the rattle noise KRRRRRR? Are you sure its not tappets maybe.
 
Dammmmmmm that does not sound good. Have you renewed small ends? How does it sound like, is it after the rev and the engine is slowing down then you hear the rattle noise KRRRRRR? Are you sure its not tappets maybe.

That's the exact noise after a few revs , rev to 1500 then drop off it sounds like death as if there was a bolt being thrown about the sump :/ , but at revs like 2000rpm holding it sounds sweet as :s
 
Have you renewed the small end bushes, if not that could be causing the noise. Did you keep every piston and wrist pin exactly in its exact spot, no mixing up of the parts? You got your pistons in the right way? Is this noise there hot and cold, or only hot?
 
Pistons are 100% back in correct orientation and bore, just been under it with torque wrench nothing has worked loose :s or been left loose phewww! but still now I'm even more stumped, checked in bell housing for bolts or nuts and that all the torque convertor bolts where still in tight and hadn't come out. So now I'm clueless next step i guess is undo big ends and inspect the shells :/ or just put all back together n see if it runs it off lol! Did notice when taking sump off the bolts had become loose, so I'm pondering on the idea it could be the sump rattling? was pretty loose! but just sounded like such a violent noise :/ the odd thing is on the 20mile drive it drove spot on, no real noise only when i pulled up at home and my dad asked me to give it a few revs so he could hear it :/! would the torque convertor make a noise if there wasnt enough oil in it, and 2nd last part is that the noise was only when dropping from 1500ish RPM to idle.

And tappets are OEM from rimmers
 
they still may be **** these days tbh, you need johnson hylift ones, sometimes boxed as delphi to be sure they are good.

even gen lr ones can be ****e
 
they still may be **** these days tbh, you need johnson hylift ones, sometimes boxed as delphi to be sure they are good.

even gen lr ones can be ****e

Its defiantly not top end as i got under the car and attached a wire to throttle n pulled 110% sure was bottom end or torque convertor
 
look at the shells then bud, we shall see.

was tappets for the last two victims on here btw so dont give up hope
 
look at the shells then bud, we shall see.

was tappets for the last two victims on here btw so dont give up hope

Think is i really wanted to run it from london to highlands for my summer holidays next thursday :( so thats why i got the hammer down on getting it going, and yeah guess shells out tomorrow and see where it goes from there if not its either polo or squeeze in my parents car with mum dad sister sistermate and dog lol!
 

Similar threads