Doing some brake work and put the grab handles on (SS with SS nuts and bolts) I have to move the line to the back of the plate I put it between the axle by mistake!
SAM_2491.JPG
SAM_2492.JPG
SAM_2493.JPG
SAM_2494.JPG
 
Not sure I like the idea of brake pipe being secured to the axle by a jubilee clip, unless it's an illusion.

It won't take long to chafe through if that's metal on metal.
 
The whole thing moves up and down, it's solid I see what you mean about chafing, but it's tight and no movement as all, it's stainless steel, so it's not going to rust, and it was like this originally
 
Nice progress.:)
You could have put a lick of paint on the engine though ;) .

Do you leave it on your drive like in the pics?
Cos that's getting to becoming worthy of nickable value:(.

J
 
marjon said:
Nice progress.:)
You could have put a lick of paint on the engine though ;) .

Do you leave it on your drive like in the pics?
Cos that's getting to becoming worthy of nickable value:(.

J
Click to expand...
It's blocked in when I have done for the day with a car on the drive sideways.... I am going to paint is when the sun come out, it's been raining today so no painting (going to do it Duck egg blue)
 
Did the fan with this stuff, seems to have worked out OK, but I will paint it also, apparently it also works as a primer, look at the engine photo to see what it was like before (Orange rust)

SAM_2498.JPG
SAM_2499.JPG
 
All of these rust convertors contain Tannic Acid and an organic polymer which coverts Iron Oxide to Iron Tannate and then dries to help seal it. The polymers contain carbon and leaves a mildly porous surface so you need to paint over/seal it or the steel will start oxidising again after a while.

I like the Dinitrol RC900 as it has an epoxy based polymer and a high Ethanol content that enhances the flow of the solution into porous corrosion layers and then sets quite hard.
 
miktdish said:
All of these rust convertors contain Tannic Acid and an organic polymer which coverts Iron Oxide to Iron Tannate and then dries to help seal it. The polymers contain carbon and leaves a mildly porous surface so you need to paint over/seal it or the steel will start oxidising again after a while.

I like the Dinitrol RC900 as it has an epoxy based polymer and a high Ethanol content that enhances the flow of the solution into porous corrosion layers and then sets quite hard.
Click to expand...
You just cost me £75..... I ordered some Dinitrol RC900 lol
 
I managed to sort out the tailgate and took the rust off painted rust stopper on it, and primed it with zink primer, if its nice tomorrow I will try and paint it
SAM_0015.JPG
SAM_0016.JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Trumar
New chassis paint or not
Replies
7
Views
638
boguing
boguing
S
rattle from steering bearing
Replies
5
Views
592
sprie
S
EmilH
Series 3 Power steering installation
Replies
14
Views
2K
Dopey
Dopey
Trumar
CHASSIS? 2
2
Replies
31
Views
3K
Trumar
Trumar
S
Flange Plate Steering Relay to Chassis 217694
Replies
2
Views
734
Enrich01
E