mistericeman

Active Member

• Aug 20, 2017

• #21

piggybacking two series heaters together .......


Progress so far ....

First test run = toasty


Mind i need to sort out a "manifold in 15mm copper ,so that both matrixes ,and the round heater in the cab can all run in parallel rather than in series as they are at the moment .
And i also need to replace the fan motor housing ,as there is no bottom in it at the moment :shock: ,so i am loosing a goodly amount of air,Or even better replace it with a bilge blower (Ebay) and draw air through the radiator to increase the ambient air temperature .




first test results are promising though ,a few hours well spent i reckon

 

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nickjaxe

Well-Known Member

• Aug 20, 2017

• #22

Looks neat...but still needs a good flow of air through it to work when underway...bet its stonking hot when your stopped at the lights.

 

Land Raver

Well-Known Member

• Aug 20, 2017

• #23

Nice idea. Should hopefully bring it up to almost modern standards of heat with a good working blower motor. I'd imagine a more powerful blower might be needed to get the air past the twin matrix effectively perhaps?

 

mistericeman

Active Member

• Aug 20, 2017

• #24

Too much airflow isn't good as the air doesn't have chance to collect the heat from the matrix effectively....
The side vent on a series struggles with starvation at speeds...
A bilge blower fed from the rear of the rad would be optimum IMHO.

 

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Colthebrummie

Well-Known Member

• Aug 21, 2017

• #25

Wouldn't having the air intake at the front cause a lot of crap to be collected and build up in the fan box? I like the thought of redirecting the air intake hose to behind the rad but unless the rad fan is removed I don't think there would be any room.

Col

 

Blackburn

Well-Known Member

• Aug 21, 2017

• #26

Piped my twin matrix so the water goes to the inner most 1st thus the cooler water pre warms the air which is then further heated by the inner one. works good .
Made a new 3 speed fan from an LDV Van fan three years ago but still have not fitted it.

 

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Colthebrummie

Well-Known Member

• Aug 21, 2017

• #27

I'm dying to get out and have a play with my heater and some other bits but I'm looking after my 8 year old grandson. Bloody school holidays.

Col

 

Bobsticle

De Villes Advocaat

• Aug 21, 2017

• #28

Biggest issue I found was the air passage once out of the matrix. The series 3 dash is just awful at directing air to its outlets. Far to much turbulence and direction changing.
It's hardly surprising the blower struggles.
I thought of fitting a snorkel to the side inlet and pointing the top into the wind in the winter.

 

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RobertP

Active Member

• Aug 21, 2017

• #29

"I'm looking after my 8 year old grandson." - well small hands can be very useful for some of those fiddly jobs. Look on the positive side!

 

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Colthebrummie

Well-Known Member

• Aug 21, 2017

• #30

RobertP said:

"I'm looking after my 8 year old grandson." - well small hands can be very useful for some of those fiddly jobs. Look on the positive side!

Click to expand...

Never thought of that.

Col

 

Riggwelter

Active Member

• Aug 23, 2017

• #31

This article in Land Rover Monthly covers one way of upgrading the cab heater on an S3.

 

blue beasty

Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

• Aug 23, 2017

• #32

Riggwelter said:

This article in Land Rover Monthly covers one way of upgrading the cab heater on an S3.

Click to expand...

Boat bilge blowers are a popular route, there's a vast choice and available far cheaper.

 

Jake P

Member

• Feb 16, 2020

• #33

Anyone knows where I can find a good priced ducting pipe coming out of the heater unit please?

 

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nickjaxe

Well-Known Member

• Feb 17, 2020

• #34

Honest guys...no need to mod the heater box....it just needs more air flowing thought it to carry the heat thats already there into the cab...the cooling sys need to be working ok and the engine getting upto temp of course.

Nick.

 

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Wildefalcon

Well-Known Member

• Feb 19, 2020

• #35

Agreed, mine heats the cab faster than the euro box. New matrix, old fan.

 

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rob1miles

Well-Known Member

• Feb 19, 2020

• #36

I have the square Smiths heater, cleaning it out made a huge difference, as did cleaning all the electrical connections as it draws quite a current. The one mod I'm considering is replacing the old motor and bladed fan (very noisy) with a modern motor and scroll impeller. It looks do-able.

 

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nickjaxe

Well-Known Member

• Feb 19, 2020

• #37

The p[rob with the S3...is the air intake on the side of the wing...once your going faster than 10mph...the wind rushes past that the fan struggles to draw air is....think its caused by a low pressure area close to the body.

My mod really does work....blasts air through that matrix.

Nick.

 

TheMegaMan

Well-Known Member

• Feb 19, 2020

• #38

nickjaxe said:

The p[rob with the S3...is the air intake on the side of the wing...once your going faster than 10mph...the wind rushes past that the fan struggles to draw air is....think its caused by a low pressure area close to the body.

Click to expand...

Hmmm. Maybe need to fit a NACA duct...

Regarding @Jake P 's question about the ducting, the stuff you probably should use is https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/classic-style-paper-covered-aluminium-ducting-100mm-id . However, I've bought 1.5m of 100mm https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283043084691 . Seems to fit my fan and heater correctly, although I've not actually fitted it properly yet.

 

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nickjaxe

Well-Known Member

• Feb 19, 2020

• #39

What a NACA duct.

 

TheMegaMan

Well-Known Member

• Feb 19, 2020

• #40

nickjaxe said:

What a NACA duct.

Click to expand...

The air inlets that chavs add to their cars... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NACA_duct