Gaj1612 said:
basically, the previous owner bought it as a non runner for his dad, apparently it had an injector fault and replaced all 4 as a set. i then purchased it and after a while had a problem with number 4 injector ( was misfiring and smoking, struggling to start) so that got replaced under warranty. i had the carbon cleaning done as a bit of an impulse thing, i saw an advert online, someone local to me was doing it at a discounted price as hed had a cancellation, so thought id give it a go.
then last week or 2, similar symtoms as before started to develop (clattering noise, smoke, struggle to start, felt like it was running on 3 cylinders) so i bought a leak back tester and found injector 1 was returning more fuel than the other 3. so as the injectors are still under warranty, contacted euro car parts and they agreed to replace it. it now runs right again but there is still a slight noise. no smoke or difficult starting though.

hope that make sense
Click to expand...

Makes sense now;)
The injectors are supposed last about 100,000 miles. Presumably a duff one was supplied.
The clattering is a pretty normal common rail noise, to be honest. The ECU will take about a tank of fuel to adapt to the new injector ;)
 
Gaj1612 said:
basically, the previous owner bought it as a non runner for his dad, apparently it had an injector fault and replaced all 4 as a set. i then purchased it and after a while had a problem with number 4 injector ( was misfiring and smoking, struggling to start) so that got replaced under warranty. i had the carbon cleaning done as a bit of an impulse thing, i saw an advert online, someone local to me was doing it at a discounted price as hed had a cancellation, so thought id give it a go.
then last week or 2, similar symtoms as before started to develop (clattering noise, smoke, struggle to start, felt like it was running on 3 cylinders) so i bought a leak back tester and found injector 1 was returning more fuel than the other 3. so as the injectors are still under warranty, contacted euro car parts and they agreed to replace it. it now runs right again but there is still a slight noise. no smoke or difficult starting though.

hope that make sense
Click to expand...
Hi Gaj, I would get the whole set replaced if possible - you have had two of them. - 2 failures in 3 months is simply not acceptable.
Have you also checked the glow plugs ? - a weak plug can hammer an injector at start up.
I think you should complain to them and get a complete new set - but, give it a few days by all means. Personally I wouldnt accept it.
I would also recommend that glow plugs should be tested.
Cheers
Joe
 
Last edited:
Nodge68 said:
Makes sense now;)
The injectors are supposed last about 100,000 miles. Presumably a duff one was supplied.
The clattering is a pretty normal common rail noise, to be honest. The ECU will take about a tank of fuel to adapt to the new injector ;)
Click to expand...
Hi Nodge mate, if I read it correctly he has had two replacements (from a previously replaced set) in 3 months ? - sound iffy to me - I would be on the blower... :confused:
 
Joe_H said:
Hi Nodge mate, if I read it correctly he has had two replacements in 3 months ? - sound iffy to me - I would be on the blower... :confused:
Click to expand...
A 50% failure rate in a few months is poor by any standards. I think I'd be wanting a complete new set too. They are supposed to be replaced in matching sets anyway.
 
thanks both, glow plugs were changed by the previous owner at the same time as the injectors. i did have words about changing the full set but agreed that id have the one replacement but if another fails ill be on the war path for all 4 with a brand new warranty. ill give it a few days and see how it is. will be doing around 150-200 miles in it tomorrow so will soon suss it out if something else is wrong, hopefully :rolleyes::p
 
Gaj1612 said:
thanks both, glow plugs were changed by the previous owner at the same time as the injectors. i did have words about changing the full set but agreed that id have the one replacement but if another fails ill be on the war path for all 4 with a brand new warranty. ill give it a few days and see how it is. will be doing around 150-200 miles in it tomorrow so will soon suss it out if something else is wrong, hopefully :rolleyes::p
Click to expand...
:) - fingers crossed.. If the glow plugs were new from the same place the odds are fairly good that only 2 will be working now lol :D:oops:
:)
 
Joe_H said:
:) - fingers crossed.. If the glow plugs were new from the same place the odds are fairly good that only 2 will be working now lol :D:oops:
:)
Click to expand...
Haha. You could be on to something mate. Over the next few weeks I'll be replacing all the vaccume pipes, old ones have seen better days, so I may just put a new set of glow plugs in for sh!ts and giggles.
 
Gaj1612 said:
Haha. You could be on to something mate. Over the next few weeks I'll be replacing all the vaccume pipes, old ones have seen better days, so I may just put a new set of glow plugs in for sh!ts and giggles.
Click to expand...
Replacing glow plugs for giggles often turns into nightmares when they snap!

Would glow plugs be needed this time of year in UK? Is it not warm enough to start without them? Haven't read the whole thread but if the glow plugs aren't giving problems - probably well left alone!
 
GrumpyGel said:
Replacing glow plugs for giggles often turns into nightmares when they snap!

Would glow plugs be needed this time of year in UK? Is it not warm enough to start without them? Haven't read the whole thread but if the glow plugs aren't giving problems - probably well left alone!
Click to expand...
lol :) GG, it was a (semi) joke...;)
I think the UK spec models have 3 per cylinder:p:D:rolleyes:
I would test them anyway as the parts appear to be of fairly low quality control (plugs and injectors from same place in last 3 months or so, 2 injectors faulty so far.)
 
Joe_H said:
lol :) GG, it was a (semi) joke...;)
I think the UK spec models have 3 per cylinder:p:D:rolleyes:
I would test them anyway as the parts appear to be of fairly low quality control (plugs and injectors from same place in last 3 months or so, 2 injectors faulty so far.)
Click to expand...
what would be the best way of testing them mate?

ive changed the fuel filter this morning and she fired up straight away, little puff of white smoke and cleared straight away.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Replacing glow plugs for giggles often turns into nightmares when they snap!

Would glow plugs be needed this time of year in UK? Is it not warm enough to start without them? Haven't read the whole thread but if the glow plugs aren't giving problems - probably well left alone!
Click to expand...

tbh i think the glow plugs are ok, but worth checking as joe said 2 out of the 4 new injectors have been faulty and the plugs were from the same place at the same time.
 
Gaj1612 said:
tbh i think the glow plugs are ok, but worth checking as joe said 2 out of the 4 new injectors have been faulty and the plugs were from the same place at the same time.
Click to expand...
I made the reference because there have been a couple of horror stories where glow plugs snap when trying to remove them. The external part shear's off leaving the threaded bit stuck in the block. I believe these stories have mainly been L Series glow plugs - but it is usually a trip to an engineering shop and possibly head off job to get it resolved.

If my plugs ever fail, I think I shall just light a fire under the engine every morning :)
 
Gaj1612 said:
what would be the best way of testing them mate?

ive changed the fuel filter this morning and she fired up straight away, little puff of white smoke and cleared straight away.
Click to expand...
Hi Gaj,
To test them, ignition off, disconnect connector to each plug. Get multi meter on ohms range (lowest) test the resistance of the leads by shorting the meter leads together (should read 0.0) if not, - say 0.1 - note this.
Now put black lead of multi meter (common) to battery negative and red lead to connector on glow plug with all wiring removed. Note resistance - should be very low ! - for example 1 ohm or less (not sure of exact spec on td4 but that is a guide.)
The important this is to check all plugs and note the measurements on each - they should all be the same within a gnats pube. - you can get the actual figure by deducting the meter lead shorted reading you noted from the figure you got - however - that is not too important - it is the measurement comparison and equality of each. Any plug that shows a high resistance or infinity (open circuit) is Captain cooked. High resistance is a relative term - note each one and post results if any concerns.
Cheers mate
Joe :)
 
GrumpyGel said:
I made the reference because there have been a couple of horror stories where glow plugs snap when trying to remove them. The external part shear's off leaving the threaded bit stuck in the block. I believe these stories have mainly been L Series glow plugs - but it is usually a trip to an engineering shop and possibly head off job to get it resolved.

If my plugs ever fail, I think I shall just light a fire under the engine every morning :)
Click to expand...
Nawww, the only reason they might ever seize on an L series is because the engine hardly ever goes wrong hence they are never touched for 2 or 300 thousand miles :D

Not like the T(ur)D4 lol :p - which needs new engine electronics every 500 miles and a thermostat that needs the engine cut out with an oxy torch and a large axe to replace:D

The L series is a REAL engine.....;)
 
Joe_H said:
Hi Gaj,
To test them, ignition off, disconnect connector to each plug. Get multi meter on ohms range (lowest) test the resistance of the leads by shorting the meter leads together (should read 0.0) if not, - say 0.1 - note this.
Now put black lead of multi meter (common) to battery negative and red lead to connector on glow plug with all wiring removed. Note resistance - should be very low ! - for example 1 ohm or less (not sure of exact spec on td4 but that is a guide.)
The important this is to check all plugs and note the measurements on each - they should all be the same within a gnats pube. - you can get the actual figure by deducting the meter lead shorted reading you noted from the figure you got - however - that is not too important - it is the measurement comparison and equality of each. Any plug that shows a high resistance or infinity (open circuit) is Captain cooked. High resistance is a relative term - note each one and post results if any concerns.
Cheers mate
Joe :)
Click to expand...
thank you for that, ill be busy for a few days now but i do it ill post results here.
 
Checked the glow plugs yesterday all were pretty much exactly the same resistance, so confident that they're ok.

I've used about 3 tanks of texaco supreme diesel since changing the second injector, clattering noise is still there. I'll try and record it tomorrow and post it on here.
Starting to really annoy me now. I have to driven another td4 to compare it to but it seems to accelerate a lot better from about 40mph. When at lower rpm and it's clattering it doesn't seem to go very well.

There's still a very strong smell (smells like the black **** that builds up in the manifold) from the exhaust.

Not sure what I can check really. I've checked all the hoses, maf, high pressure sensor, leak back tested the injectors, glow plugs, changed oil and filter, fuel filter, cleaned out pcv, fitted in line thermostat as temp wasn't reaching half way, egr bypass fitted, manifold cleaned, only thing I can think to check now is boost solenoid, but would that make a difference?
 


Not the best video but you can hear the clattering in amongst the wind noise. It is actually a lot louder than it seems and it's driving me mad.
 
Have you replaced the MAF? A bad MAF signal will make black smoke and more engine noise than normal.
 
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