steve's P38 RR
Active Member
Thanks, I wounder if it will every get to a stage where its finished, I'm thinking not lol,
Thanks, I wounder if it will every get to a stage where its finished, I'm thinking not lol,
steve's P38 RR
Active Member
Well another job done, just to wire everything up for my split charge and aux fuse box wiring all in place to should be easy, then another fuse box to go in the back I think and wire the caravan s socket up. after then no cost jobs new to replace the other air bag and height sensors I think to be save with the caravan and then sort out the knocking that's started.
poor pic's at night sorry, but I've resprayed the area under the old pas bottle mount where landrover thought primer was ok, then fitted the mounts I'd made which were a right pain due to the angles of the inner arch but the fuse box fitted nicely.
poor pic's at night sorry, but I've resprayed the area under the old pas bottle mount where landrover thought primer was ok, then fitted the mounts I'd made which were a right pain due to the angles of the inner arch but the fuse box fitted nicely.
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steve's P38 RR
Active Member
bloody brilliant!!!!!! taking it for a longer run today but been excellent so far.
steve's P38 RR
Active Member
Second battery, split charge, and aux fuse box wired up now.
I'm happy with 13.5 volts in the back, with engine running.
Now the power steering bottle is in LEVEL, as that was bugging me and heres some photos. I must say my engine bay is looking full.
Just need to find some bigger conduct for the wires to the fuse box.
And in the fuse box.
and lastly the FREE lock from Halfords just fits the spare for it little extra security / deterant.
I'm happy with 13.5 volts in the back, with engine running.
Now the power steering bottle is in LEVEL, as that was bugging me and heres some photos. I must say my engine bay is looking full.
Just need to find some bigger conduct for the wires to the fuse box.
And in the fuse box.
and lastly the FREE lock from Halfords just fits the spare for it little extra security / deterant.
steve's P38 RR
Active Member
Yes I fitted and thickest 3 hole gasket as I had a 2 hole before and the place the skimmed it said that the compression wont make any difference so best to fit the thickest.
steve's P38 RR
Active Member
I've got a really bad know from the rear cant see what it is but know the dust covers are splits on my watts linkage bushes /ball joints, and the noise is when the axle tilts, so hoping this fixes this, the outer rubber bushes are fine and do to fund are not being changed at this point.
Was going to loosen the bolts off on a ramp at lunch time, due to 2 things it didn't happen,
Well is wasn't to bad on the floor any way with the help of air tools.
I did get time to spray some wd40 about at lunch, that's what you can see on the axle
Body supported
air gunned the bottom and center bolts out from the back but you cant get on the top one cause of the tank so move it up and get on it from the other side
Looks like this now.
Pressing the old out
I also worked out with the old ones the best way to fit the new ones without damaging the dust overs, This is how I did it, just pop the cover up around the centre part.
the new
Again what I did with the boot showing and showing how they come and how to put them back.
This were the best size sockets to do the job,
12 sided one give that little extra space hence I swopped
All done
It is back on the car but getting a little dark having my dad round didn't get an photos.
Was going to loosen the bolts off on a ramp at lunch time, due to 2 things it didn't happen,
Well is wasn't to bad on the floor any way with the help of air tools.
I did get time to spray some wd40 about at lunch, that's what you can see on the axle
Body supported
air gunned the bottom and center bolts out from the back but you cant get on the top one cause of the tank so move it up and get on it from the other side
Looks like this now.
Pressing the old out
I also worked out with the old ones the best way to fit the new ones without damaging the dust overs, This is how I did it, just pop the cover up around the centre part.
the new
Again what I did with the boot showing and showing how they come and how to put them back.
This were the best size sockets to do the job,
12 sided one give that little extra space hence I swopped
All done
It is back on the car but getting a little dark having my dad round didn't get an photos.
BelvoirDisco
New Member
Inspiring work! God knows how your truck got that dirty, must have had a hard life. I have resorted to removing the ACE from mine and I'm about to fix up the PAS pipe work, all rotted away behind the AC condenser. Taking the air con off too. It lost all gas when the radiator was replaced, but then after ten years the condenser was all but rotted through! I'll be keeping all the bits for use on a P38 - I must be mad 
steve's P38 RR
Active Member
Cheers people all comment welcome good or bad.
Small job for the next D2 mod, done on my lunch breaks this week
This are the brackets from the tank guard, cleaned up really well, didn't need sand blasting as I thought.
Brought home my tank guard brackets from work they just didn't look right sitting on the porch floor so went out to get it on.
Cleaned the guard its self
Trail fit, just to get the brackets right, then I swopped the bolts round after.
Small job for the next D2 mod, done on my lunch breaks this week
This are the brackets from the tank guard, cleaned up really well, didn't need sand blasting as I thought.
Brought home my tank guard brackets from work they just didn't look right sitting on the porch floor so went out to get it on.
Cleaned the guard its self
Trail fit, just to get the brackets right, then I swopped the bolts round after.
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steve's P38 RR
Active Member
When did I start sorting this interior [119.gif]
D1 fuse holder for wiring for under dash ie radio, power to the extra D1 switches and perminant live fag lighter.
This wasn't my first choose for position but the other involved dropping down the trim under the dash (below) where this is behind the glove box and easy to drop down without the need for tools.
and at the weekend I trimmed this ready to refit today
poor picture due to light but more when the trim is all back in
I'm pressing on now, stereo cable came yesterday but had the parents round helping with the caravan awning.
but tonight I've been busy not only cut the grass and some of the hedge.
but another cigarette socket for the front powered off the aux battery fused behind glove box (put 15amp in for now ???)
Haven't done the hands free kit, hardest bit will be getting all the wiring in there some where.
D1 fuse holder for wiring for under dash ie radio, power to the extra D1 switches and perminant live fag lighter.
This wasn't my first choose for position but the other involved dropping down the trim under the dash (below) where this is behind the glove box and easy to drop down without the need for tools.
and at the weekend I trimmed this ready to refit today
poor picture due to light but more when the trim is all back in
I'm pressing on now, stereo cable came yesterday but had the parents round helping with the caravan awning.
but tonight I've been busy not only cut the grass and some of the hedge.
but another cigarette socket for the front powered off the aux battery fused behind glove box (put 15amp in for now ???)
Haven't done the hands free kit, hardest bit will be getting all the wiring in there some where.
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discomark10
Well-Known Member
Halfrauds own make is ripspeed
gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
steve's P38 RR
Active Member
fsteve,this is a fantastic thread mate,real inspiration to everyone who wants to know how to do things correctly.where did you get the ripspeed dvd player from and how much was it please.
Thanks for the nice comment. As said the head unit is from Halfords, but I was lucky enough to buy a pervious car with it in, for a very small extra charger the owner left it in.
steve's P38 RR
Active Member
Good luck, ^^^^
Hands free kit took a bit of sorting, for some reason it didn't like sharing the lives of the stereo, took me a while to work this out though. I ended up wiring another iso plug (just the power side) and used the position 2 ignition live in the fuse box then found a perminet live, and earthed it to the frame next to the fuse box and now it all works well.
Also cut out some of the plastic behind where my D1 switch pack fits to make more room for wires run to the fuse box compartment.
as normal here's the pictures.
Before
after
The more basic parrot kit, that I've had for years, thought I was going to have to upgrade when I couldn't get it working to start with.
Hands free kit took a bit of sorting, for some reason it didn't like sharing the lives of the stereo, took me a while to work this out though. I ended up wiring another iso plug (just the power side) and used the position 2 ignition live in the fuse box then found a perminet live, and earthed it to the frame next to the fuse box and now it all works well.
Also cut out some of the plastic behind where my D1 switch pack fits to make more room for wires run to the fuse box compartment.
as normal here's the pictures.
Before
after
The more basic parrot kit, that I've had for years, thought I was going to have to upgrade when I couldn't get it working to start with.
steve's P38 RR
Active Member
Last Friday night I cracked the spanners out on the D2, I'm trying to sort the minor running problem, and its been in to Mansfield 4x4 last week when I was off ill, we both agreed one injector was in limits but thought something wasn't quite right. so I changed it for good one I had. The funny thing it the injector I'm taking out is only 20 months old and has a 2 year guarantee and only covered 6-7 k
my injector removal tool.
and a little tip I picked up from Mansfields I've mentioned it on a thread somewhere ages ago but hard to explain with out pictures.
When setting the injectors the cam must be at full lift, it is quite easy to see when the rockers are at the highest point. but if you look at the cam behind the sprocket there is lines and numbers 1 - 5 marked very hard to see on the photos in the dark with a iphone. The number comes round first as you turn the engine over clockwise then a line, the number is the injector that's at full lift and to be adjusted and the line you line up with the straight edge next to the timing pin hole. hope this makes sense.
the numbers come round in firing order not 1 - 5 and are NOT spaced evenly there is also a section that's still in cast form not machined.
then sat morning got the replacement injector programmed and one week on now and the diesel knock I had when cold, has gone completely.
my injector removal tool.
and a little tip I picked up from Mansfields I've mentioned it on a thread somewhere ages ago but hard to explain with out pictures.
When setting the injectors the cam must be at full lift, it is quite easy to see when the rockers are at the highest point. but if you look at the cam behind the sprocket there is lines and numbers 1 - 5 marked very hard to see on the photos in the dark with a iphone. The number comes round first as you turn the engine over clockwise then a line, the number is the injector that's at full lift and to be adjusted and the line you line up with the straight edge next to the timing pin hole. hope this makes sense.
the numbers come round in firing order not 1 - 5 and are NOT spaced evenly there is also a section that's still in cast form not machined.
then sat morning got the replacement injector programmed and one week on now and the diesel knock I had when cold, has gone completely.
steve's P38 RR
Active Member
Well the D2 is running sweet 3 weeks and here's whats been happening over the last couple.
Recently found wet carpet again end of last week, a/c drain seems to be in place and def dripping out from under car, So looked at top of A pillar again sealed up before but with silicone which I don't think held also had a screen fitted since.
So took out all the silicone and a load or the seam sealer stuff as it was cracked, now cleaned rusty patch and primed.
O/S primed
and thought I'd re-do the nearside to.
Recently found wet carpet again end of last week, a/c drain seems to be in place and def dripping out from under car, So looked at top of A pillar again sealed up before but with silicone which I don't think held also had a screen fitted since.
So took out all the silicone and a load or the seam sealer stuff as it was cracked, now cleaned rusty patch and primed.
O/S primed
and thought I'd re-do the nearside to.
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